Migiwaya in Yaizu, Shizuoka

Work was pretty full on today – we were looking at integrated transport solutions in Nagoya and then had to make our way to Shizuoka which took longer than anticipated… we have found the SatNav in the car to be variously reliable. It gives us decent information on route options and is usually accurate on the cost of tolls, (which are seriously prohibitive considering they barely save you any time at all on some occasions), but we don’t think is always operating on real time traffic data. We have had a couple of instances where the tolls route had a lot of congestion and ended up taking much longer than the no tolls route would have taken. C’est la vie. Live and learn.

We stayed for the night at Migiwaya in Yaizu Harbour in Shizuoka in a lovely little ryokan known for the fresh and crystal clear onsen water. We had a quiet little garden villa at the back of the properly in a tucked away secluded little spot.

The room was enormous – I think these newer ryokan establishments have realised how people from the cramped larger cities of the country enjoy a bit of space for restful and relaxation.

The living room was also quite large – had enormous closets and the lovely little half height rocking chairs that were really comfortable.

The tea making space was well equipped and the fridge stocked with complimentary beer, highball and non alcoholic drinks.His and her yukata for the stay.and his and her towels. The blue is for boys, and pink is for girls really is ubiquitous. Outside was a lovely deck overlooking a private garden. Not as established as some gardens but will be lovely in a few years as the plants mature. Dressing room:Bathroom:Snackage and drinks: Before scubbing off the road and into the onsen. It was a very warm 41C – which probably only felt warm because the ambient temp was closer to 20C than 10C this close to the coastline. The water really is crystal clear, and while not as soft as some others, was lovely and refreshing. After a couple of dips in the bath (in between getting some work done) it was time to go for dinner. Here was the menu for the evening, laid out in a lovely autumnal design:

Appetisers of wheat bread and persimmon mixed with walnut paste, roasted duck, smoked salmon, Japanese radish, red turnip pickle and citrus seasoned grilled fish. So tasty.Maguro sashimi – this was delicious. Lovely three different cuts of tuna of varying grades. <3 Big fan! Had to try the local saké of course – cute little saké jug.Shimonita leek soup. Followed by a house speciality – deep fried tuna cheek. This was possibly the most flavourful cooked piece of tuna I’ve ever had in my life. I’m not super fond of tuna once it’s more than lightly seared, but this was fantastic.Local fish with Chinese cabbage served with seaweed sauce.Simmered Shrim Potatoes.Marinated steak with malted rice paste.

Steamed rice with fried Sakura shrimp, served with miso soup and pickles. It’s interesting to see how the flavours in miso soup change so much from region to region.

For dessert, a small brown sugar pudding and some local fruits.

Another delicious meal, and so beautifully presented… 10/10 would dine here again.

After dinner we had a reservation in a different, larger, private onsen… so we made our way down the garden paths to a private little cabana-like space. It had a double dressing room, a double shower room and this lovely large onsen. Only we found it to be rather too well lit and took care of that pronto…much nicer without a spotlight overhead, and just the garden lights left on.
This was actually an odd space to be bathing in – it has all the appearance and feel of privacy, but probably had the actual privacy of a tent! People couldn’t see in, but you definitely got the impression with the open air space that your voices would carry, though the ryokan was not full and we saw only two other parties at dinner.

After this it was time for a much need, good night sleep with the sounds of the ocean not far away. We both woke up bright and early – our deck faced predominantly east, and even though we had remembered to close all the blinds, we found ourselves waking early. Never mind, that just gave more time to have another soak in the onsen on the deck before breakfast in the dining room.

Breakfast that comprised of a cast of a thousand dishes!
Grilled Japanese horse mackerel with fish sausage and wasabi.Tuna sashimi for breakfast! How decadent.Tamago with pickled broth sauce.

Plus a bunch of other delicious things – they seem determined to fill us up at breakfasts here, which works well – if you skip lunch!
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SCMaglev and Railway Park Nagoya

The SC Maglev and Railway Park is a museum owned but the Central Japan Railway (JR Central) which opened in 2011. The park has 39 full sized railway vehicles, including a Shinkansen carriage and the shiny new Maglev train. It’s a pretty swish building – with SFA in parking… the public parking is across the road but is literally a 4km drive in a massive spiralling loop to get to said car park.
Anyway once inside, it felt kinda like the NASA centre where they display the Space Shuttle Atlantis at Cape Canaveral… all dark and the trains are lit up – whaaaa! sHiNy tRaINs!

“This is a train, there are many like it, but this is the one I got to see.”
So quoth Mr K. Right before he reverently whispered… “Ssshinkansen…”. Yes, he is a proper train nerd. Gotta admit they are super shiny and riding them is very cool. You don’t feel like you are going that fast at all but the landscape speeds by.
I had to admit, I didn’t know the Shinkansen was capable of doing 443kmphr… I thought they topped out somewhere around 300kmphr as they tend to operated somewhere around 280kmphr… I dare say this is for safety reasons and designed to allow for the conditionals and/or possible weather impacts along the least optimal parts of the track.
Then of course is the Maglev trains that everyone can’t wait to see roll out in some time in the next five years, as it is currently not quite expected to meet the 2027 opening date. (Though can you really ‘roll out’ a Maglev train?) 🙂 Sleek! The first track is 296km from Tokyo to Nagoya and had a budget of 7 TRILION YEN. The extension through to Osaka is scheduled for 2037..

And this thing goes so fast it could nearly fly. Oh dear lord, all I think of when I see this is: humans are not designed to stop suddenly at that sort of speed… just let that one stew a little.


The Great Hall of the museum is full of rolling stock from the last century – pretty interesting for train spotting types.

The museum also had plenty of interactive exhibits where you could buy tickets and use them in train station ticket machines, you could switch tracks, lift and lower cars and stuff and heaps of interactive fun stuff for kids to get amongst.This was one of the kids play spaces upstairs above the Great Hall – all shoes off an it was hard to get a shot with no one’s kids in it. They were running around like squirrels all hyped up on catnip.

In the back of the Great Hall:

Also beside the Great Hall were some cool exhibitions relating to the history of railways in Japan. The Kanto Regional Development Bureau built the first railway in Japan in 1872 and offered the first services between Shimbashi and Yokohama. It’s kinda crazy to think that this was barely five years after the end of the Edo period and the decline of the Shogun’s which we think of as being late medieval in a lot of ways.

This piece of rock was part of the Takanawa Embankment was part of a 2.7km track that was laid for the first railway line in 1870. The embankment was discovered in April 2019 when JR East was excavations to lay foundations for improvements to the Shinagawa Station.

There were also some nods in the history section to some of the men instrumental in conceiving and bring the Shinkansen projects to fruition back in the 60s… Shinj Soga and Hideo Shima. Unfortunately most of this section was in Japanese and I didn’t get much out of it.

Other than these and a pile of work related gobbets – the other impression I took away from the train museum was somewhat social or anthropological in nature. I saw Japanese children behaving badly! For the first time ever – and there must have been about five of them… throwing tantrums, screaming, crying, refusing to walk, talking back to their parents and basically behaving like little brats. I figured it was because they were hyped up; trains! Woo-hoo! And perhaps some of them didn’t want to leave and their parents were having difficulty getting them to cooperate.

But Mr K had a different theory… you see to get to the train museum from the aforementioned car park that is very inconveniently located across a very busy four lanes in each direction highway, you also have to walk right past the bright and colourful entrance to Lego Land! He thinks the kids were chucking a wobbler because they *didn’t want to go* to the train museum, not because they didn’t want to leave! He might be right!
Literally, their parents are walking them straight past this massive bright looking toy shop, to go look at trains… lol.

Nabano no Sato Illuminated Gardens Nagoya

The Nabano no Sato illuminated gardens are a ‘must visit’ when in Nagano so I figured we needed to go visit. Given it was all happening after hours, it wasn’t too hard to set aside the evening to go out and see them. The gardens are actually attached to an enormous plant nursery and they have been lighting up paths and expanding on the attraction for years. At 2500JPY per person for the entrance fee, it’s not so cheap to just wander around and look at the lights, but it weirdly includes 1000JPY per person in vouchers that you can spend inside the park…

… and there are multiple restaurants (and even a loosely German style beer hall) and gift shops contained in the park where you can spend your vouchers. It’s almost like ‘here, buy a ticket and we will give you a modest free meal with it). The park consists of acres of displays, comprised of millions of twinkly lights… or fairy lights as we tend to call them in Australia. Having read up on the place before coming out here, we arrived just before sunset and had a bite to eat- from what I’ve read and now from what I’ve seen, if you go wander through the park first if you want something to eat a bit later, you’ll be lining up for ages to get seated in any of the park’s restaurants. The place was BUSY – and the 5400 space car park was no where near full.

I had a seafood dorai dish that was like a mornay, but at the same time tasted nothing like a mornay. 🙂 Mr K ordered a park katsu curry that was served in a huge cube of bread with a miso curry and egg. The curry was really tasty… miso curry is a popular thing in the Nagano region.I also ordered some saké – because well, every time I look at a menu and there are no diet soft drink options, I think ‘I’ve gonna have the sugar, I may as well have the alcohol!’. This is the FIRST time ever that I have been served hot saké in Japan. Honestly, all the brewery and saké shops, and restaurants we have been to – the saké is, by default, chilled. With this one exception. Which got me wondering why… I actually asked for some ice to cool it down and see what it tasted like, as while it was hot all I could pick out was the heavy tone of ‘this is alcohol’… and yeah, it was not sweet, not dry, not citrusy, not floral, it was just kinda bland. So I can see why they heated it up. Through the large park is an enormous stream of hot onsen water lined with beautiful Japanese maple trees. There was a public onsen for bathing if that took your fancy, as well as further in a very popular onsen foot bath which had crowds of people using it. The stream made for some glorious opportunities for reflection photographs. But it was very hard to capture the beauty of the scene… Though I repeatedly tried to! So many photos of the same subject. 🙂 There was also an enormous lake which led up to what looked like a Christian church – an yes, you can have weddings out here, or just come out and having wedding photos taken in the park. It’s popular all year round for the autumn leaves and also for the cherry blossoms and massive begonia fields. Attempt 53 at trying to captures the reflections of the autumn leaves in the lake…

A little better…

Then there was the huge 300m long tunnel of twinkle lights which seemed to be selfie haven for visitors…It was actually really pretty which got me wondering why the hell do people like twinkle/fairy lights so much? What bower-bird like instinct is driving this?

According to WebMD – the ultimate source of reliable medical and psychological information on the entire internet (lol) – string lights or twinkle lights can make us feel more connected to one another, boosting one’s mood and make us feel more hopeful.

The reason they seem to make people feel happier has to do with the release of dopamine apparently – and is fairly heavily connected to memories of colourful holiday lights making us feel good as children. There’s actually a type of colour therapy called chromotherapy where people with anxiety and depression are encouraged to spend time in spaces with coloured or decorative lights to pump up the dopamine.So we’re not all just a bunch of nutters flocking to a Nagoya plant nursery for no reason – we’re psychologically drawn to them. 😉 #sciencebitches

At the end of the big long selfie tunnel was an enormous field with pathways meandering towards three huge pyramids. Why pyramids you might ask? Well, I know I was wondering and nothing I saw gave an answer.

Probably something mundane, like large temporary structures are more stable when they are triangular or something. 😉

I kept wondering though (because I’m ever the pragmatist and quite the glass half empty kinda gal) how crap this must look in the daylight if my neighbour’s yards are anything to go by when they have their Christmas lights up!Ahhhh… a tunnel of love hearts.In front of which you can get a professional photograph with your sweetie. Another tunnel – this time made to look like draping wisteria.But the most adorable was for last – the long flower tunnel leading back around to the lake… there were two little boys running around with us in tiny little Santa suits. Their Mum chasing them with a large camera trying to get a Christmas photo of her little darlings. They were so excited and happy and much to excited to sit together for more than a fraction of a second for poor Mum to take their photo. They were so cute!

Waiting for the lights to change making the tunnel look like it was made up of different flowers! Magical. 😛Obligatory selfie…

And then it was time to make our way out of the park. It was well worth a visit, even if it is quite the most Japanese-twee touristy thing we have done this entire trip… much better than a Robot Restaurant imo. 😉

Tokugawa Art Museum and Garden

“The Tokugawa Art Museum houses over 10,000 artifacts, with the bequests of Ieyasu Tokugawa comprising the core, and holds daimyō family treasures collected and inherited by many generations of the Lords of Owari, starting with Ieyasu’s ninth son, Yoshinao Tokugawa. The collection includes 9 National Treasures, including the Tale of Genji Illustrated Scrolls, and 59 items designated as Important Cultural Properties. The museum takes great pride in the rich variety, quality and level of preservation of its collection.

Or so reads the description of the facility on the museum’s website – however, it is one of those curated collections that 1) won’t let visitors take any photographs, and 2) has very few descriptions of objects in languages other than Japanese. Which makes for a very superficial and sad visit over all.

Honestly, I don’t mind the no photos thing – especially of delicate objects such as 800 year old scrolls or ancient paintings, but please, please, please, sell us a guide book at the end if we can’t photograph any detail. And for the life of me – why can’t we photograph things that notably all have ‘reproduction’ on the plaque beside them? :/

Two sets of armour that greet visitors at the front door… reproductions.
Traditional feudal map of the Nagoya area… could not ascertain from the description when it was created or by whom.Ooh, pretty garden visible from one of the internal passage ways between exhibition halls.

So instead – here are some images ripped off the internet of things we saw:

“This room recreates the study (shoin) and preparation area (kusari no ma, literally “chain room”) of the Ninomaru Goten, Nagoya Castle. It shows the tea utensils, hanging scrolls, and calligraphy implements that were handled there. In the case of the Owari Tokugawa, the shoin was an official space for governance. The exhibition space thus replicates its various formal, magnificent displays such as the board-style alcove (oshiita), the staggered shelf (chigaidana), and the desk (shoindoko), all of which testified to the status and authority of the Owari Tokugawa. With this history, the museum holds one of the leading Japanese collections of Chinese-style lacquerware, inks, and incense.”

Below: The Hatsune (First Warbler) Troussseau

“Princess Chiyo (1637-1699), the eldest daughter of the 3rd Tokugawa shogun Iemitsu, received this bridal trousseau in 1639, when she married Mitsumoto, the 2nd lord of the Owari clan. The motif on the matching ensemble comes from a poem in “The First Warbler,” chapter 23 of The Tale of Genji, which reads: “The old one’s gaze rests long on the seedling pine, waiting to hear the song of the first warbler, in a village where it does not sing.” The poetic design is elegantly embedded in the lacquered furnishings with scattered letters and pictorial motifs. Designated a National Treasure, the Hatsune Trousseau represents the finest example of the decorative lacquer technique of maki-e (sprinkled metal decoration) in Japan as well as the power of the Tokugawa shogunate.”

There you go – some actual information cadged straight from the museum’s website… sigh.

Hina Dolls: The Hina Dolls were special ordered for the daughters of the Owari Tokugawa family.

Sword mounting for a Tachi long sword – Edo period, late 19thC.

The black armour picture in the back of this image was an authentic extant suit from the Tokugawa family collection… can’t remember exactly what period because, no photos of information plaques. 

A Daimyo’s tea room – this thatched building is a reconstruction of the Sarumen Tea House from the Ninomaru residence in Nagoya Castle. Tea ceremony was an integral part of the social and cultural life of the Edo samurai, and their teahouses constituted a measure of their social standing. This room is a recreation of the Sarumen Tea Room at Ninomaru Goten, Nagoya Castle. It was a national treasure, but was destroyed by fire during WWII.

“The National Treasure Illustrated Scroll of The Tale of Genji (early 12th century), the oldest surviving pictorial representation of The Tale of Genji.” Below are presumably images of the originals from the museum’s website – what we were able to view in the museum were recent replicas to protect the delicate originals from light.

All up, the Tokugawa Art Museum seems to house some very interesting objects… somewhere? But most of them don’t seem to be on display, just replicas. The lack of ability to take pictures of the replicas and the lack of guidebooks at the gift shop were disappointing.

The Tokugawa-en Garden on the other hand is an oasis of serenity in the middle of the busy city of Nagoya City. The garden is a genuine of traditional Japanese garden design. It was created as a leisure and entertaining space for the demanding generals of the past. It is expansive, beautifully maintained and exquisitely designed. There are plant and flower species arranged to make each season uniquely enjoyable all year round. It was quiet even though there were quite a few visitors.

Multiple beds of irises that must look amazing in the spring.

Chasing Autumn in Gifu

Today we had a short drive from Takayama to Nagoya via Gero which was going to take us through the Gifu prefectures. I was hoping for a chance to spot some of Japan’s famed autumn colours and it turns out we were in luck. Children crossing warning signs here are slightly more fun than at home: “Be careful; jumping out!!”

Ujo Park in Gero…

I thought this would be the highlight of the autumn colours today.

One of the things I have noticed here on Japan’s roadways is the total lack of ‘lookout’ points. In Australia there are spaces on highways and roads to pull over and see nice scenery all over the place – they are quite often marked on maps as scenic or photo-worthy stops. Here, there is rarely anything like that, even though the scenery is quite often spectacular.

This was us, and several others, all stopped in a long and somewhat precarious row on a stretch of highway that followed this gorge… it really needs a handful of places where people can stop and take in the view of the beautiful trees, the still river and the mountain as. The autumn colours were simply stunning against the deep blue/green of this lake/river.

The sun is shining, the birds are singing… how’s the serenity*?*if we ignore the fact that I’m standing on the side of a highway and cars are flying past us at breakneck speed.

Just beautiful…

Made it safely to Nagoya without any navigation mishaps. Checked into our hotel, did some prep for work stuff, and went for a quick grill/sushi dinner that turned out to be quite the most ordinary meal we have had since we got here.

On the way back after dinner we stopped in briefly at ‘Liquor Mountain’… I sent these pics to the Whisky Wankers group at home. Just to taunt everyone with the selection and the prices – omg the prices! Australians really are getting reamed on island tax, and WET tax. :/