Mary Rose Museum, Portsmouth

Stephola was onboarding for a new job and the poor love was stuck in what looked like an endless stream of dreary remote e-learning – absolutely nothing of which was I able to assist her with and scant little I could offer other than commiserations and the occasional cup of tea, so I decided to head out of town and go visit Portsmouth. I honestly can’t remember if we made it to Portsmouth back in ‘95; it’s possible, but by the end of that six month trip, I mostly just remember the nightmare of driving and more driving. I’d have to go look it up… even back then I kept a travel journal, but it isn’t on here!

The primary reason for deciding on Portsmouth? The famous Mary Rose Museum. So I booked myself some cheap accomodation about 200m walk from the shipyards / naval museum district. Turned out to be a great spot and a lovely hotel… for a fraction of the cost of our Dublin digs, I got a room twice the size and buffet breakfast thrown in. Royal Maritime Hotel on Queen Street – can highly recommend it as budget accom near the museums.

The view from my window…

First thing in the morning I got myself around the Shipyards complex thinking to beat the tourists crowds, only to see fairly quickly that everyone else had had the same plan. There was a queue to get in, even though this mid-winter crowd were largely locals (UK, not all from Portsmouth!) judging by the accents. So I found a spot with a nice bench to wait half a hour or so for the morning crush to dissipate. It was a well calculated plan, for as soon as the first tranche of visitors disappeared from view, I then found myself in a lull in the traffic and didn’t see many people along the route for my entire visit.

Interesting juxtaposition…?

This was my first view of the Mary Rose Museum, I wasn’t expecting such a spaceship looking thing. I think maybe the Vasa Museum and the recent visit to the Titanic Museum had given rise an expectation of something more nautical??

Like I said, there was a lull between the crowds – everyone had gone in already and I found myself following the route largely solo. I was a bit concerned at the video projections, the overly passionate ‘History Channel’ audio that was running and the whole ‘Spirit of London’ vibe was feeling strong at the beginning of the exhibition – thankfully, it was short lived, and the bulk of the museum wasn’t insisting on the forcible interactive spoon feeding the guests some you know, history.

This is turning into a real pet hate these days… it’s worse in the UK than in the museums we visited last year on the Continent… but there is this extremely obvious, bordering on obsessive, effort happening in these cultural and historically important locations to turn ‘history’ into ‘experience’. I know the theory of it all is to make the history as accessible as possible – they’re literally trying to display ‘history without the dull bits’, but personally I find it condescending and extremely agitating to have archeological finds and historical culturally significant information handed to me in what feels like some sort of pre-digested, dumbed-down format. Stop catering for the lowest common denominator! People will never get truly engaged and lift their game if they can come to these things and consistently have their history served up to them in sanitised, bite sized chunks that don’t require them to fire up at least a few neurons. I could rant about this all day, but won’t. At least there was no black London taxi cab in this ‘interactive experience.

Okay, I didn’t mind the huge projections of some manuscript imagery depicting the ship from contemporary sources – the originals of which are not housed at this museum and will not be on display here. But there must be some happy balance between providing relevant additional information in a visually useful manner without the need to add a theatrical song and dance soundtrack over it while you present it? Surely… >.>

The Mary Rose was an English Tudor warship, one of the jewels of the navy at the time. It was commissioned by King Henry VIII, and built in Portsmouth between 1509 and 1511. It served largely as a troop carrier before being refit out as an artillery ship in 1545 when it was transformed into a cutting-edge carvel-built ship with lidded gun ports, which allowed her to be equipped with heavier guns. This same guns and their weight may have been the ship’s undoing. The Mary Rose was apparently King Henry VIII’s favourite ship and often served as the flagship of the fleet.

Sadly, it sank in 1545 during the Battle of the Solent, while attempting to stop French ships from landing on the Isle of Wight, and was lost until 1982 when it was raised. Now it provides the most perfect Tudor time capsule we have, and gives incredible insight into the Tudor naval and seafaring life and the lives of people from the Tudor period in general.

Thankfully, the interactive ‘we are in the waves sinking beneath the seas while listening to the laments of Henry VIII’ audio-visual rooms disappeared quickly and we were able to enter the museum proper and from here on in were engaging with more traditional displays! Phew… for a bit there it was promising to be a loooong day! The first artefact presented for our edification was this impressive canon – little did i know just how many canon were going to be scattered around this museum!

Many of the descriptions I’ve included are directly from the information plaques.

Everyone on board the Mary Rose was male. Records say that the ship carried 200 mariners, 185 soldiers, 30 gunners and the officers. She also carried the captain and his retinue, a master, a pilot, a purser, a surgeon and his assistant,/and carpenters. So they think there were more than 500 men on board when the ship sank. Of these, no more than 35 survived. Studies of the skeletal remains of at least 179 individuals have revealed that most of the men were in their 20s. The youngest was around ten years old and the oldest over 40. On average the men were I.71 metres tall (5 ft 7 in.), only slightly smaller than UK men of today (typically around 1.75 metres, 5 ft 9 in.).

This fine plate is one of 28 pewter pieces with the letters ‘GC’ stamped on the rim. These are the initials of Sir George Carew, the captain of the Mary Rose. A pewter bowl has the initials of the owner ‘GI’ on one side. On the other side are the letters ‘IS’ within a shield, which also has a picture of a pewterer’s hammer. So these letters are assumed to be the maker’s initials.

Initials of other officers can be seen on other pewter items, such as ‘HB’ on a dish. They have not discovered the name of its owner. This pewter flagon has some very curious marks. The lid is highly decorated and has four scratched marks. On the base is a symbol of the Trinity made by a pattern of three fish.

The crew liked to personalise their drinking vessels apparently. These lids of tankards all have complex marks so their owners could identify them. The marks can be neatly incised on the outside, the inside, or all over, as on some of the bowls. It is not clear whether the marks show ownership by one person or by a group of mess mates.

The Mary Rose Bell – This bronze bell is one of the few objects that stayed on the Mary Rose throughout her career. It was made in Malines near Antwerp, a town famous for casting bells in that periods. The Flemish inscription running round it reads: ‘IC BEN GHEGOTEN INT YAER MCCCCCX’ – I was made in the year 1510′ – the year Henry VIII ordered the Mary Rose. It was rung to mark the passing of time, to raise alarm and to tell the men when to go on or off duty. It’s in such good condition.

The Mary Rose had such a successful career as a troop carrier for 34 years but sank in a matter of minutes. Over the years, there have been many explanations of what caused her to go down so quickly. After looking at all the evidence, they think it was a combination of factors. Many accounts of the sinking were written years later or by people who were not there. So these may not be reliable. There is only one account by a survivor, recorded at the time by the ambassador to the Emperor Charles V. He said the disaster was:

“… caused by their not having closed the lowest row of gunports on one side of the ship. Having fired the guns on that side, the ship was turning in order to fire the guns from the other, when the wind caught her sails so strongly as to heel her over, and plunge her open gunports beneath the water, which flooded and sank her.”

This suggests she sank because water flooded in through the open gunports when a gust of wind heeled the ship over. But there may be other reasons why the ship went over so easily and why the crew was unable to prevent the disaster.

The Mary Rose sank on her starboard side, leaving the port side to be slowly destroyed by erosion and by marine animals, fungi and bacteria. The starboard side survived because it became buried in the mud, which protected it from the underwater currents and from destructive organisms. The water in the Solent contains large quantities of silt, which built up both inside and around the hull. This smothered the remains of the ship, keeping out the oxygen that the wood-attacking creatures needed to live.

the first view of the actual ship was quite stunning. It is not as large or impressive as the Vasa but its cut away view gives you a fantastic appreciation of where the various officers and crew were located, and how the ship functioned.

There are numerous artefacts displayed alongside the ship as you wander from one end of the galleries to the other – military canon, canonballs, swords, and other more domestic items like axes, buckets, tables and chairs.

The lighting on the ship changes constantly, sometimes looking a warm amber and other times a deep blue (presumably to indicate it was beneath the waves, because we might forget?). I wasn’t however, expecting the lights to dim and then see animated projections of various people depicted in period clothing living and working as if they were inside the ship. I found it distracting, but others may have found it helpful to depict where certain functions of the ship were located.

Some fabulous oak trunks and caskets.

The Master Carpenter’s Quarters
Everything found inside this chest is known to have belonged to one man – the Master Carpenter. They can tell from his belongings that he was not just a skilled craftsman, but also wealthy, literate and religious. They know he practised archery, liked to play dice games and had a fondness for finely decorated items. The Master Carpenter had some finer belongings than most of the crew. In his chest they found valuable pewter plates and a very ornate pewter tankard. It is the only known I6thC tankard etched with these detailed patterns. Even his knife was of high quality; with a handle made of burr boxwood, it originally had fine metal fastenings.

Backgammon Set – The Master Carpenter owned a ‘tables’ set, a game which developed into backgammon. The lighter coloured triangles are yew; the darker triangles are made of spruce or larch. The board could be folded in half and the rebates for the hinges can still be seen, but the iron hinges have rusted away during the years the wreck was underwater. Only some of the backgammon counters survived. Originally there would have been 15 dark and 15 light ones made of poplar. You can see that the upper edges have been rounded off so that they feel comfortable in the hand. A leather pot found near the backgammon board might have been a dice-shaker. There were two tiny dice in the chest – and by tiny, they are about 6mm square – and they are not even or identical.

The famous Good Boy, Hatch.

The Master Gunner’s Chest
The Master Gunner’s chest was found on the main gundeck. The carving on the front includes a shield with his mark. The tools inside include a linstock and priming wire. The linstock held a smouldering match which was put to the touch-hole at the back of the gun to ignite the gunpowder. The priming wire was used to keep the touch-hole clean. The silver whistle is the Master Gunner’s badge of office. The silver and garnet Maltese Cross with two silver finger rings and silver coins show he was a wealthy man.
The tiny bone dice suggest that he probably enjoyed gaming. His clothing included the ends of laces for either a jerkin or his shoes. His chest contained the only dress-pin of silver found. He carried a ballock dagger with by-knives. The top of a second dagger is decorated with the figures of a king and queen.

The gallon flagon may have been a serving flagon for the gun crew. It was found beside the Master Gunner’s chest and has a picture of a bronze gun on a carriage with spoked wheels. But if you look at it sideways, you may see something else. The lid is incised with an inscription which translates as “If God is with us, who can be against us?” (Romans 8:31). The inscription encircles a Tudor rose and crown.
The small lead weight and wooden bung were also found inside the chest.

Gravel, pebbles or smashed flint cobbles were placed inside wooden canisters and fired at close range to ‘scour the decks’. This powder chamber is the largest they found. It took six men to lift it. There are two of these large chambers, but not the huge gun barrels they belonged to.

Bronze Guns
This demi-cannon was made in 1535 by Francesco Arcano, an Italian gunfounder working in London.
The gun is decorated with fleurs-de-lis (symbolising Henry VIII’s claim to France), Tudor roses, and the lions of England. The shield has Tudor supporters – a dragon and a greyhound. Above that is the Royal Crown and below are the letters ‘H VIII R’. Under the name of the gunfounder are the words. ‘POVR DEFENDER’ (To defend). It weighs 1,400 kg with a bore of 14 cm.

Troopship to Gunship
The Mary Rose was built to carry soldiers, gunners and archers. Most of her guns were small and the emphasis was on hand-to-hand combat. By the time she sank after 34 years in service, the tactics of warfare at sea had changed completely. The emphasis was now on firepower and her hull had been adapted for this. When built, the Mary Rose was equipped with 78 guns, but only five of these were large enough to be mounted on carriages. In 1545 at the time the ship sank, of her 91 guns over 30 were mounted on carriages. The recent innovation of tightly fitting gunport lids made it possible for her to carry these very heavy weapons and still be a stable sailing ship. In the late I530s the Mary Rose was transformed from a platform chiefly for soldiers to become a platform mainly for guns. When she was discovered, her gunport lids were open for battle and the guns were run out, ready for firing.

The Surgeon’s Quarters
The Surgeon not only performed operations but was also the ship’s doctor, dentist and pharmacist. He was however not a barber, despite belonging to the Company of Barbers and Surgeons. The Company did not allow him to cut hair or shave another man’s beard. Most of the best surgeons worked for the nobility. Our surgeon may have been employed by the captain, Vice Admiral Sir George Carew. The Surgeon’s post was a skilled and prestigious one but also challenging. He had to treat fevers – such as typhus, yellow fever, malaria or even plague – venereal and lung diseases, dysentery, parasites and dental decay, as well as treating battle wounds and work injuries. “And I do note four things most specially that every surgeon ought to have: The First that he be learned; The Second that he be expert; The Third that he be ingenious; The Fourth that he be well mannered.”

Inside the chest in the Surgeon’s cabin we found a wooden dish and two wooden bowls to hold sponges and bloodied instruments. These are examples of the wooden ointment canisters and ceramic medicine jars, found in the chest, still corked. The shape and glaze of these jars shows that they were imported from Raeren, a town now in Belgium. The wooden canisters are also from there or one of the other city-states on the Lower Rhine.

A syringe, used for draining wounds, was also retrieved from the orlop deck. Nearby were two pewter canisters, identical to those in the Surgeon’s cabin. Three of the Surgeon’s wooden canisters were found far away from his cabin one on the orlop deck and two of them close to the coif on the upper deck.

A coif was recovered from the upper deck. It is silk, not velvet like the one found folded in the cabin. While the one in the cabin is identical to those worn in the painting of Henry VIII and the Barber Surgeons, this one seems more functional than ceremonial, so perhaps this was the one he wore every day.

This length of chain was found nearby. It has no obvious function, but it is very similar to the chains on the shoulders of some of the men in the painting of Henry VIII and the Barber Surgeons.

Medicine on the Mary Rose
The surgeon was a man of science, but also a man of faith. This was an age when everyone believed God’s will intervened in all human affairs –

‘Je le pansai, Dieu le guérit’ : ‘I bandaged him, God healed him.’ Ambroise Paré, Journey to Turin, 1537

Cures, and even the patient’s survival, depended on the surgeon’s skill in diagnosing and treating. The surgeon might not have fully understood the nature of disease but he knew a wide range of remedies and about the need for cleanliness. He also cared about the well-being of his patients. The wooden bottle and cleverly shaped spoon helped to feed those who were too weak to feed themselves or who had facial injuries. Liquids were forced into the rectum using this clyster (object marked #6) to relieve stomach pains and constipation, and to treat parasitic worms. A pig’s bladder was normally used to hold the liquid.

These scoops and probes helped the Surgeon remove shot, shrapnel and fragments of bone in a body. For cutting into the body, the surgeon had a range of scalpels and a knife.

The Surgeon would amputate a limb if it was too damaged or diseased to heal. Smaller amputations, of fingers and toes, were carried out using a chisel and mallet. Amputation of hands, arms, feet and legs would be done using the amputation knife to separate the flesh and then the saw to cut through the bone… all without anaesthetic! *shudder*

Blood flow was stopped with cautery irons. These were heated over a brazier and the red hot iron applied to seal the veins. Not every problem the Surgeon dealt with on board was caused by an accident or by war. He would use the urethral syringe to treat venereal diseases by injecting mercury, although none of the human remains showed any signs of such diseases. Bandages for wounds were sewn up with a wooden needles.

Diagnosis & Treatment
In 16th-century England there was little understanding of disease. It was believed that illness was caused by an imbalance of the four humours (substances) which made up a person – blood, phlegm, black bile and yellow bile. Diagnosis by the colour, smell and taste of urine was common. Cures could be dietary, herbal or by the letting of blood. All these treatments were thought to bring the humours back into balance.

“Let every man be wary no phlebotomist or letter of blood, nor no manner of surgeon do touch him in opening any vein or do make any incision or cutting when the moon is in any sign where the sign has any dominion or does reign.” – Andrew Boorde, Fyrst Boke of the Introduction of Knowledge, 1542

The Surgeon’s Potions
Ointments to soothe and heal were mixed and spread using spatulas. These glass bottles and the small decorative jars are from the south of the Netherlands, they held expensive and unstable or poisonous materials, such as mercury. Only small amounts were needed to create a potion. Ceramic jars were found still corked and held the remains of their medicines, some of these jars are from Spain and Portugal.

The pewter flasks would have contained precious distilled medicines. The Surgeon made cures from dried herbs that may have been stored in these pewter canisters .

When some of the wooden ointment canisters were recovered, there were still traces of their painted labels. One canister contained peppercorns, a treatment for malarial fever, headaches, coughs and wind. The base for the Surgeon’s ointments was beeswax, butter or tallow. Into this he mixed resins, olive, poppy and fern oil, frankincense, sulphur, copper, lead and mercury. Good stuff.

Henry VIII & the Barber Surgeons
One of the unnamed faces with the King in this picture could be that of the Mary Rose’s surgeon. The distinctive surgeon’s cap and the medical equipment we found, as well as his presence on Vice Admiral Carew’s ship, all suggest that our surgeon was very experienced and a man of some note. As this painting commemorates an event just five years before the Mary Rose sank, his portrait may be included here. The picture was painted by Hans Holbein the Younger to mark the merger of the Company of Barbers and the Fellowship of Surgeons in 1540 to form the Company of Barbers and Surgeons. Normally the King would not attend such an event, but it reflects his wish for English medical practice to equal that of mainland Europe. The painting is displayed by kind permission of the Worshipful Company of Barbers of London.

The distinctive coif with its silk lining tells us that the Surgeon had served a seven-year apprenticeship under a master surgeon, passed the examination and was now a senior member of the Company of Barber and Surgeons. He owned a barber’s bowl razors and case and combs, even though the new rules of the Company of Barbers and Surgeons did not allow him to cut hair or shave another man’s beard. There are two signs that the surgeon was wealthy man. First, his leather purse packed with silver groats. Secondly, the medical equipment found in the cabin must have been very expensive to buy. Many instruments were made on the Continent, but the pewter objects are all English – which was the most costly and prized of all pewter ware at the time.

Cauldrons
This cauldron, and the brick fireplace into which it was built, was found under an enormous pile of rubble. This is how it looked half-way through the excavation… but without the mud. Originally the rim of the cauldron was circular and over 1.6 metres wide. We could boil 350 litres of broth. The silt covering the ovens was as deep as the room you are standing in (10-12’ deep). All of it was dug out by the divers before they even reached the top of the rubble – more than ten times the amount shown here. The cauldron was built into brickwork which supported it all the way around. Extra support was provided by two iron bars built into the sixth course of bricks. One of these iron bars survived very well, but the other bar corroded away, leaving just a hole where it had been.

Conservationists managed to retrieve ash from below the cauldron. There was not much unburnt wood in the oven, so we think the fire was not alight when the ship sank. Ash was scooped out with this wooden shovel. You can see that the end was once protected with metal, but is has been burnt at some stage.
The ash was collected in an ashbox to be carried away.

Injury & Illness
This is the skull of Person A, who we have identified as the Master Gunner because of the objects found with him. Although younger than 35, he had lost many of his teeth and parts of his jaw bone had worn away, so he probably suffered from painful abscesses. He had an unusually shaped head, longer between the front and the back than many of the other men.

These are the arm bones of Person B. He was between 25 and 30 years old and 1.7 metres tall (5ft 7in.). Although he had well developed muscles, his lower spine had signs of stress and his right elbow (displayed on the left) was badly damaged and arthritic. He had the only ivory wristguard recovered and the other objects displayed in the case nearby. So we think he was an archer, or perhaps a less active captain of archers.

C-D Person C, a young man, suffered a ‘bowing” fracture of his right femur – the upper leg bone-as a child. It is twisted, bowed and flattened and there is matching damage on his right pelvis.

Person D, an older man, had suffered ‘spiral’ fractures of both bones in his lower right leg. These were the result of a fall. It is clear that the bones were not reset after the fracture.

E-F Person E, a teenager, had rickets as a child. This softens the bones – you can see that both his tibias are bowed as a result.

G-H The heads of the upper leg bones of Person G, are flattened and his hip joints are broad and shallow. This was due Rickets is caused by a lack of vitamin D, which is found in fish oil, animal fats and cheese. One of the lower leg bones of Person F shows scars from healed scurvy. This is caused by a lack of vitamin C and results in bleeding. On long bones, extra bony to restricted blood flow to this area in childhood. Standing upright would have been impossible, and he would have walked awkwardly. Some skulls have head wounds which may be battle injuries.

Person H may have been hit by an arrow shot from above, but it growth occurs at the spots where the blood clots were healing when the man died.

An Archer’s Skeleton
This is one of the most complete skeletons recovered. The bones are large and depressions within them suggest that his muscles – especially his arm muscles – were well developed. Both his shoulders have a condition called acromiona, where the tip of bone – the acromion – on the shoulder blade has not fused. It usually fuses around the age of about 18, but regular strain can prevent this. On the Mary Rose skeletons, there are more instances of this condition on the left-hand side than the right. The left side is the side which exerts most force when a right-handed archer draws a longbow. The central section of his spine is twisted and the base is compressed towards the left. His pelvis shows signs of severe stress, similar to that found on the bones of archers who draw heavy longbows today. These are more reasons why we think he must have been a professional archer.

The Cook’s Personal Belongings.
A few possessions were found in the galley which we think belonged to the Cook. Like many of the crew he had a dagger – his small knife, is of a type usually mounted on the outside of the sheath of a dagger. He had a comb and a few silver groats – coins of small value. Several cooking spoons were found in the galley but this one may have been his own eating spoon. This bowl has the name ‘NY COEP COOK’ carved onto it so we think that is the name for our cook. We also found shoes and woollen stockings called hose – mostly too fragile to display except this piece from the foot part of the stocking.

The Cook’s Stool
This is the oldest dated example of this type of stool in the world. It was next to the ovens. Although it makes a good seat, the cut marks on it show that the Cook also used it as a chopping block. The knife on top of the stool was one of the smaller ones in the galley.

These pots are known as grapen. They were made in the Netherlands and nearby Flanders where there was a tradition of making such pots stretching back to the 13th century. Some of these pots had soot on the outside, showing they stood on the hearth next to the flames. Some have large feet attached but others have small feet ‘pulled’ (pinched) from the clay of the pot.

When it came to mealtimes, the crew were organised into groups of about ten men. Each group was known as a mess! By looking at where they found plates, buckets and bowls around the ship they can work out how food and drink was served to the crew. Almost 100 wooden plates were found in the galley: These must have been issued at meal times and returned. Drinking bowls, however, stayed with the mess alongside their barrels of beer. They found no evidence of mess tables-the crew probably sat on the decks to eat.

Cod and hake bones were found in barrels and in baskets. The cod, some almost a metre long, came from the fishing grounds off Iceland and Newfoundland. The hake probably came from English waters. All had been de-headed and gutted. This conger eel was caught by fishermen from the Channel Islands where catching these eels was a major industry.

The Purser’s Store
The store was small and partitioned off from the rest of the deck. At one end we found a pile of seven gun-shields and at the other, a number of lanterns. In the centre were chests full of clothes and tools. Among them were baskets, some with the remains of fish or dried plums in them, and barrels, some of which held candles. Others still contained the residue of wine. In the next compartment we found more lanterns and baskets of fish as well as a set of scales for weighing out

The Purser had a second chest. In it he kept a pair of leather ankle boots, a knitted garment, a wooden comb and a knife. There was also a small square wooden plate, a leather drinking flask and his bowl, marked on its base with the number 18.

The second chest also contained objects that reflect the Purser’s control of food and drink on board. He was responsible for the contents of the barrels, and in this chest were the tools for this job-his shives and spiles. A shive is a tapering wooden tap, which was hammered into a barrel so that the liquid inside could be poured out. A spile is a long bung that is tapped into the shive as a stopper to close the barrel. A wooden mallet found nearby would knock them into position.

Angels were coins worth 8 shillings. One of these is from the first half of Henry VIll’s reign, the other two are from the reign of his father, Henry VII. All have a ship on one side and the winged figure of St Michael slaying a dragon on the other side. The half-angel, like the angel, has an image of St Michael and the dragon on one side and a type of medieval ship called a hul on the other. The coin was struck during the reign of Edward IV, more than sixty years before the Mary Rose sank. There are more than 20 silver coins here, amounting to a few shillings.

The Money Changer
In a chest in the officers’ quarters on the upper deck, we discovered a small box containing a set of scales with weights for specific gold coins. Nearby were fragments of a money-changer’s purse. All these suggest a money-changer was on board, perhaps the Purser himself. Money-changers carried scales to check the weight of the coins. They also had very distinctive purses with stick handles from which four, five or six pouches were hung. Sometimes these had smaller pouches sewn on the outside to keep different coins separate.

A small number of personal items were found with the scales and weights. These included a painted octagonal mirror base, combs, parts of several shoes,, a leather drinking flask, copper lace-ends, a silver groat and a tiny barrel of pepper. We also detected traces of ginger root in the chest – another expensive imported commodity. The fishing floats show that either he felt a need to supplement the ship’s food he received or he simply enjoyed fishing.

The Purser’s Treasury.
One chest in the Purser’s store stood out – a bench-style chest with carved panels covering its legs. Fitted with a lock, it had gold and silver coins inside amounting to more than the Captain’s monthly wages. Some of the coins were newly minted in 1545 and were barely worn, so this was very probably the ship’s official money chest. These are fragments of the handle and leather that made up the distinctive money-changer’s purse (object #14). It had a number of pouches to hold different currencies, or coins of different values. Close by was the oldest coin recovered – a single gold coin called a ryal (15). Worth 10 shillings, it was made in Coventry about 80 years before the Mary Rose sank.

A Money Changer’s Scales and Weights
The money changer’s small box has a sliding lid like an old-fashioned pencil box. On the inside are circular depressions carved to hold a pair of collapsible pan scales. These hung from the ends of the beam by silk cords held with wire rings and are used for weighing coins. The shapes of these weighs were more common on the Continent than in England in the mid-16th Century. They were made for checking the weight of specific gold coins.
A weight used for nobles – a gold coin worth a third of a £1 – from 1412 onwards.
A weight struck between 1433 and 1454 to weigh Burgundian Netherlands raiders.
A 52-grain (3.4g) weight – It has the crowned arms of France and was struck between 1461 and 1547.
[5] A weight of 53 grains (3.45 g) dating from 1423.

Near the purse lay a pocket sundial – Its well once held a small magnetic compass. Within the inner circle, the heads of a man and a woman face each other on either side of the gnomon, which is inscribed with the letter ‘M’. Other objects nearby were a decorated wooden knife-sheath, a lace end and a number of silver groats – each worth four old pence- and a single penny.

A Dark & Smelly Place to Live
The Mary Rose was packed with over 500 fighting men, sailors and officers, but she was not built with their comfort in mind. Below decks, it was cold in winter and stiflingly hot in summer. All year round it was damp, with a strong smell of tar, stagnant water and sweating, unwashed men. For the most part it was also dark. On the main deck, the only light came from openings in the centre of the deck, from ventilating hatches above each gun, or from the gunports when their lids were open. Otherwise light came only from candles. Officers and professional men like the Master Carpenter and the Pilot slept in cabins. The crew had only the hard deck. Only some of the more elite professional soldiers would have had uniforms, the rest wore their own clothes. Not all of the men had a change of clothing, so if it was stormy or raining when they were on the open decks or in the rigging, it would be a long time before they could get dry. We found no evidence of toilets. Most men probably just leant over the side of the ship.

This is a pewter chamber pot, owned by an officer. No evidence survives for ‘heads’ – open toilets at the bow of the ship (for the men) – or for enclosed toilets outside the aftercastle (for the officers).

A Wealthy Officer
The contents of this man’s chest tell us he was literate and numerate. But it also tells us so much more. Only a man of some wealth could have afforded such belongings. And only a man of considerable importance would have been allowed to keep them in a chest on the crowded main gundeck. The officer kept a spare hat of knitted wool, in his chest, together with its silk lining and the lace which ran around it.

There was no sign of the scales or weights that were stored in this balance case, pictured below. The case had a mirror inside the cover. In one of the depressions on the other side there are the remains of a brass token, on which is the face of a ‘Green Man’. The outside of the cover is embossed with the inscription: ‘VERBUM DOMINI MANET IN ETERNUM’ – ‘The world of the Lord endureth forever’. (Peter 1:25)

Another obvious sign of the wealth of this officer is this flask of finest English pewter. The bronze candle sniffer belongs to a man used to a finer way of living. He did not just use two damp fingers to put out a candle. The leather book cover indicates he was literate. Among the decorations are the letters ‘MD’ – not the initials of the owner but of Martin Doture a London bookbinder. Silk ribbons held the book shut. This brush helped him keep his cabin clean… all objects denoting someone accustomed to a finer standard of living.

A Seafarer’s Chest
The officer who owned this chest had made sure it was fit for service at sea. When the ship rolled, the battens fixed around the edge of the lid would stop anything sliding off. The chest has been fastened with dowels (short wooden rods), not nailed together with iron nails which would corrode in the salty sea air. It is likely that the officer was literate but the mark on the back of the chest looks crude. Perhaps it was for the benefit of a servant who could not read, but could recognise his master’s mark.
(missing picture?)

He owned these two mittens – They were worn one inside the other on the left hand. The outer one is made of sheepskin, with the fleece on the inside. It is possible that they are gloves for hunting with hawks and other birds of prey – a popular pastime among gentlemen.

The Finer Things in Tudor Life
This oak chest stood on the orlop deck towards the stern of the ship. At either end of the lid, there is a batten on the underside. These helped to keep the damp out and to keep the lid firmly closed.

This peppermill was found alongside these peppercorns in the till – a lidded compartment – of the chest. The wealthy flavoured their food because they enjoyed, and could afford, exotic spices. Pepper was an expensive luxury.

Pilot & His Tools
The Pilot was an important and highly skilled man, responsible for navigating the ship from place to place, particularly into harbour. To do this successfully, he had to remember hundreds of locations, avoiding danger areas such as sandbanks and rocks. He also had to understand the tides and weather.
In a cabin at the forward end of the main deck, we found a compass and a pair of dividers and their case. The cabin almost certainly belonged to the Pilot. Two more compasses and another pair of dividers were found high up in the ship, towards the stern. This was the Pilot’s station, from where he gave orders to the helmsman steering the ship. His charts and books, together with most of the equipment he would need to work out the ship’s position, have not survived. But what we have recovered shows he was a man skilled in more than just coastal navigation. He may not have been English – at this time
Henry VIII had sixty French pilots in his service.

The compasses from the Mary Rose are the earliest known steering compasses on gimbals – pivots – in the Western world. Each sat in a case suspended on gimbals which allowed the compass needle to stay level whatever the motion of the ship. The gimbals were made of brass strips, so they did not affect the magnetised iron needle. This needle was fixed underneath a card marked with the points of the compass, so that both the card and needle moved when the ship changed direction. The Pilot rolled his charts around sticks to store them. Dividers, made of brass, were used for taking the distance between two points on a chart and measuring against the chart’s scale. Although very eroded, you can see that the inside of this wooden case was carved to hold two pairs of dividers. A groove around the case suggests that a lid was tied on. Below are various hourglasses that would have been used to mark time

These are lead weights that are tied to a line and then dropped to the seabed to measure the depth of water. They have a small hollow in the base which was greased with tallow. When the weight touched the bottom, a tiny bit of the seabed – sand, silt or gravel – would stick to the tallow. By examining this, and with the help of his charts and books, the Pilot could identify particular parts of the shallows, so avoid the risk of the ship running aground.

THE SHIP’S MODEL

The Mary Rose – this simplified model of the Mary Rose identifies the key parts of her rigging. If all the ropes on the actual ship had been tied together, they would have stretched for over 10 miles. The mode shows the two types of rigging on sailing ships: standing rigging to hold up the masts, coloured black on this model, and running rigging to control the yards and sails coloured white.

The Masts: The Mary Rose’s four masts were the mainmast, the foremast, the mizzenmast and the bonaventure mast. There was also a bowsprit, and an outrigger. The masts were made up of sections. The top two sections of the mainmast were called the main top mast and the main top gallant mast.

Standing Rigging: The masts are held in place by ropes called stays and shrouds, which are known together as ‘standing rigging’. The stays stop the masts falling forwards or backwards and the shrouds stop them falling to one side or the other. The ropes have names such as the mainstay and the foremast shroud.

Sails & Yards: The spars from which the sails hang are called the yards. Sails and yards are named after the part of the mast to which they are attached, such as the mainsail and the main top yard.

Pulleys & Ropes
The heavy and complex rigging of sailing ships relied on ropes and pulleys (‘blocks’). A combination of these two are called a ‘block and tackle’. A block and tackle reduced gathered effort needed to move or lift heavy loads, such as yards and sails. Although many types of blocks were used, they all have three main components – the shell (wooden body), the sheave (the wheel), and the sheave pin (the axle).

Many different thicknesses of line and rope were used. Made by twisting long strands of hemp together, they were usually coated with tar to preserve them. This also served as a binding to protect a thinner rope from chafing against a thicker one. The fragment below from the edge of a smile has both the canvas sail-cloth and the bolt rope (a continuous length of rope running around the outer edge of the sail). A sail was made by cutting long stripes of canvas to shape and sewing them together. The bolt-rope was then sewn on to strengthen the outer edge of the sail. The ropes that controlled the sail and those that ties the sail to the yard were fastened to the bolt-rope.

Rigging Materials
The rig of the Mary Rose included timber masts and yards, hemp rope, canvas sailcloth and brass pulley wheels. Great strains were put on them all, so they had to be replaced regularly. Most of the ropes, pulleys and other rigging were probably made in England, but canvas was not manufactured there during this period. It was imported from Northern France, Brittany, and Gdansk in Poland and turned into sails by English sailmakers.

Although the ship’s carpenters made some of the blocks (some were found unfinished in the Master Carpenter’s cabin), most of the pulleys and other wooden rigging gear were probably manufactured by woodturners. These craftsmen also made eating bowls and other every day items.

This parcel held a yard against a mast, but also allowed it to slide up and down and turn horizontally. It went almost halfway round a mast and was held together by ropes that also attached it to the yard. It fitted one of the larger masts on the Mary Rose, but divers found it stowed away on the orlop deck, with its rope fitted.

From the Seaman’s Chest – a Treasured Possession.
Inside the chest was a leather pouch originally embroidered with silver thread. Compartments in it held the top of a dagger hilt, and a lead token dated 1542. On the other side of the token is an image of a lady, possibly the Virgin Mary. It is similar to late 15thC and early 16thC tokens found on the continent. Also inside the pouch were a bone die, a lace-end, silver coins, a writing seal with the initials FG on one end, weights and a simple accounting stick.

Defending the Ship
The aim of ship-to-ship fighting was not usually to sink an enemy ship but to board and capture it. The Mary Rose was well equipped to prevent boarding. The weapons included 150 bills and 150 pikes, issued by the King. The bill had a hooked chopping blade and the pike had a simple spear-like tip. Both were mounted on long ash hafts – poles. Many of these weapons were found on the upper deck, ready for use in the open waist or on the castle decks above. Beside them they found open chests of longbows and some of the most up-to-date rifle-like weapons imported from Italy. Other weapons, including shields fitted with a small handgun, may have belonged to one of the Royal Bodyguards – the Yeomen of the Guard or the Gentlemen Pensioners. Most of the crew carried their own daggers and officers also carried their own swords for hand-to-hand fighting.

Two shields had decorated bosses [22] around the gun barrel. The shields [23] are made of two layers of narrow strips of wood, laid at right angles to each other, and covered with thin steel plates fixed with brass nails. Although incomplete, boss [24] was found with these copper alloy strips [25] cut and impressed to look like oak leaves. These covered the joins of the steel plates.

Archer Royal
The archer carried a sword in a decorated scabbard and an ornate pomander – the only one found.
Five silver groats found within his clothing and extensive silk uniform edging suggest a man of high status. His leather wristguard is decorated with the Arms of England, one of only two recovered.
Twice during his reign, in 1509 and 1539, Henry VIII raised a special troop of fifty trusted nobles. Retained at his expense, these ‘Spears of Honour’ or ‘Gentlemen Pensioners’ formed a personal guard and each ‘Spear’ had to ‘furnish and make ready two good archers, to do anything the king commanded’.
In 1544, Sir George Carew, Captain of the Mary Rose, was made a Lieutenant of the Gentlemen Pensioners. Was our African archer one of these ‘two good archers’?

Archers wore a leather jerkin, a longbow was found nearby. Also a pomander (a holder for sweet smelling herbs and flowers) was attached to his sword scabbard with a plaited silk cord. All that remains of his sword are its beech handle and leather fragments of his sword belt and hanger. His wrist guard bears the Crown and badges of the Tudor family and Katharine of Aragon. The Latin inscriptions on it translate as: ”Shame on him who is this evil”, and “Hail Mary, full of grace, the Lord is with Thee”.

Inside the folds of his jerkin were found a leather case with the impression of his comb. A silk band is all that remains of his hat. The woven silk ribbon may be the edging from a uniform. Beside the archer, was also found the handles of a small knife and a ballock dagger – which was a common weapon for personal defence. Archers were relatively well paid and among his clothing and possessions were five silver groats. Only parts of this archer’s shoes survive but show the leather where a brass buckle and copper lace ends together with fragments of wooden socks.

The museum is laid out such that you traverse the length of the ship four times, but in each walking pass you are in sealed glass corridors separated from the actual ship. Here, at the top of the gallery, visitors are finally in the same space as the ship. It is as you traverse this gallery that you can smell the salt and the timber and the age of the Mary Rose, as you look down on the recovered ship.

A number of musical instruments were recovered from the Mary Rose. Used primarily for entertainment during non-working hours, the instruments number and quality varied considerably.

Living in Style
Only the very rich owned items made of silver and gold. A substitute was pewter, which is an alloy of tin, with small amounts of lead, copper and antimony. However, pewter was not cheap – it was an occasional purchase even for the wealthy. Most of the pewterware found on the Mary Rose belonged to the captain, Sir George Carew, vice admiral of the King’s fleet. Other pewter items used by the officers were found in the area of the aftercastle, where the officers lived, or they safely stowed in personal chests. Close examination of the plates reveal marks left by the diners’ knives.

Keeping the Faith
The 1540s was a time of great religious upheaval. The monasteries had been closed and religious images had been removed from the churches. But faith was unshaken, and they found numerous objects which demonstrate that religion was still central to the lives of the men on board the Mary Rose. The objects include book covers with quotations from the Bible, archers’ wrist-guards with religious symbols, images of saints and references to the Virgin Mary. They also found eight rosaries, and while rosaries were not banned, the mechanical reciting of prayers using the beads had been condemned in 1538. Only one rosary was found in a chest – the others were being carried on someone’s person when the ship went down. Objects with a religious significance were found on all decks of the ship. They testify that, for at least some of the crew, the practices of the Catholic Church were still being followed in 1545.

Clothing
Men usually wore a hat of some kind – this one is knitted. The pocket appears to be on the inside of this leather jerkin, but it is double-sided and can be worn either way round. Though not as colourful as it once was, this woollen jerkin retains the rose madder dye – even after centuries underwater.

Wealthy officers fastened their belts with fine brass buckles. These fragments of checked material are all that remains of one man’s shirt. These buttons and finely decorated pewter clasp’s could have been used to fasten an officer’s shirt or cloak. Two of the clasps are decorated with a Tudor rose and one with a fleur-de-lis.

There are entire books written just on the footwear found on the Mary Rose.

Various leather drink flasks, with carved decorations. Interestingly one has an Irish harp carved into it.

Most men carried a person dagger, many of them ballock daggers popular during the period.

The Mary Rose Museum has an enormous catalogue of artefacts, and I imagine this is only a fraction of what the collection entails – especially given the allusion to the sheer number of skeletons recovered, and many of them would have had clothing and domestic objects on/nearby in varying states of decomposition. They have done an excellent job of laying out the different occupations and associated belongings of the different types of people who lived on board and engaged in widely varied activities, though the informational plaques did get a little confusing at times as it seemed to occasionally double back on people/occupations already covered (literally redressing something that seemed explained in a previous gallery). I spent about two hours in here absorbing as much as I could, and probably could have spent even longer.

Slovenia – Ljubljana & Bled

Slovenia! You’re standing in it! Why is Slovenia on our tour of Germany, you may ask – well, the first answer that comes to mind is that I haven’t been here before? The second answer that comes to mind is why the fuck not? Seriously, we are in a place where you drive 100kms and you can experience a place with a completely different language, different culture, different customs, sometimes even different architecture and different food. You cross a border here by just driving across it… which probably seems extremely commonplace if you’re European – but believe me, when you live on an enormous island where you can drive for five days and not get from the top of your country to the bottom and get the same chiko roll or pie and chips at every truck stop along the way, it’s a seriously novelty to drive for a couple of hours and everything is different. For us, you need to get on a plane for hours on end to experience that.

Anyway, here are are in Slovenia and already the language, the food and the architecture is markedly different from Austria. This gorgeous building is just around the corner from our hotel, it’s called the Vurnikova hiša. It’s a Ljubljana historical landmark and while it’s very different from Vienna, it’s also very different from the other buildings in the street. Decorated in national colours, it is currently used as notary and civil offices, so sadly we were unable to be visit the inside.

Prešernov trg – a square that is not so square and where the triple Tromostovje Bridges are located.

One of the Tromostovje Bridges with the two others in the background… I’m not sure why anyone would design a bridge like this, but it made me going looking for an aerial view.

They all go from the same place to the same place? Reminds me of how paving for quads in universities ends up being haphazard based on people’s walking patterns as people refuse to use established paths if there’s even a slight shortcut!

At the heart of Ljubljana’s Prešeren Square is a statue of France Prešeren, Slovenia’s national poet depicted with a ‘naked muse’ perched above his head. Apparently this caused quite a stir with local nearby church authorities when it was erected who weren’t not keen on public nudity. To ‘fix’ the problem, the town planted a row of birch trees that would strategically obstruct the view of the muse’s bust from the church’s entrance.

It’s a really pretty town… but like every town with a lot of canals or small rivers through it, it likes to be referred to as the, ‘Venice of the <insert north, south, east, Balkans what have you?>‘ here.

Mesarski Most – another simple pedestrian bridge that is covered in ‘love padlocks’… we saw some shops selling the locks for €6-10 each. So many thousands of Euros spent on locks for the bridge. I wonder how often they come in and remove them to make space for more tourists to buy more locks!

The Dragon Bridge: a pedestrian friendly Art Nouveau bridge that was built in 1900, best known for its series of large dragon statues at each end.

Cute little gryphons at the base of the lamp posts on the bridge.

Ljubljana Castle or (Ljubljanksi Grad) is a castle complex on Castle Hill right above the city of Ljubljana. It was originally a medieval fortress and is believed to have been constructed around 1000AD and then rebuilt in the 1100s. The current layout was the result of a complete redesign in the 15thC, but most of the buildings here currently are from the 1700s and 1800s. Like most castles it was originally a fortress built for defences by the Lords of Carniola in the 1300s.

The castle and the dragon are so ubiquitously connected to Ljubljana that they appear on the city’s Coat of Arms.

Word has it that the dragon is from Jason and the Argonauts rather than St George, which makes a nice change – though that is contested (likely by the more religious denizens over the centuries).

There is a seriously modern glass funicular to go up to the castle, which was a great relief, because it’s fucking hot again today – 37C. Whose stupid idea was it to come to Europe in mid-summer? Again?

At the base of the funicular we saw this unusual and very familiar looking marsupial statue… couldn’t figure out what it was doing here? We later saw some people tug on his paw/knob and discovered that it was a water fountain! Cool, so we learned what it is and why it was here – but the, ‘why is it a fucking kangaroo?’ bit, remains a mystery! Kangaroos being known the world over for delivery or provision of water or something? Yeah, nah. :/

The castle courtyard – which now has two cafes, a wine cellar/shop and museum spaces throughout the various towers and keep buildings.

Oh! A Medieval Weapons Musuem! Cool… oh wait, premature excitation.

One reproduction suit of armour, a recently constructed gambeson, a couple of brand new halberds and a pavise that looks like it was painted last year, does not a ‘Medieval Weapons Museum’ make.
*sad face*
It was a small room filled with stuff that my friends could make – and to be perfectly honest, a lot of our SCA friends can and have made far superior versions of these objects!

Austo-Hungarian Field Canon, c.19thC. An archer’s arrow slit.

Always on the lookout for oddities, we had seen that the Ljubljana Castle has a Puppet Museum and thought we should check it out. The Museum studies the art and history of Slovenian puppetry, which dates back over several of centuries, and the mission for the collection is to encourage and promote the Slovenian Puppetry Theatre. It’s a permanent exhibition with Slovenian Puppets from 1910-1990, and a small theatre for shows that have been running at the Castle since 2015. Cool mascot/logo/badge.

Sadly, there weren’t many description plaques in English and a couple that were, displayed names of Slovenian folk stories that were (to us) completely unfamiliar. The earliest puppets appeared in Slovenia was in the 15thC. It is assumed that they were brought there from Asia Minor by invading Turks. Humorous puppet shows featuring small hand puppets (known as ‘lileki’) were staged all over the country. In the Dravsko Polje lowlands (currently around the area of Ptuj), the puppet show Boundary Dispute has been preserved and performed to this day.

This one is definitely Gepetto and Pinocchio.

This was an adult’s only puppet… he was hard to photograph, but he has a huge erection! I wish I had a better idea of what he’s about.

There are lots of interactive spaces here – you can have a go at making shadow puppet and sock puppets and try your hand at operating marionettes.

The Puppet Museum was an unusual and quirky interactive musuem; definitely something different.

Next stop was the Ljubljana Castle’s Slovenian History Museum – the opening exhibit of which was a wishing well full of donations… really? Didn’t y’all just pay €14 each to get in here? There wasn’t anything nearby saying it was for charity or anything. Tourists will throw money into literally ANYTHING! LOL.

“If you want to experience the essence of Slovenian and Ljubljana history in one place, come to the castle and visit the permanent exhibition Slovenian History. You will find out how, when and by whom our history has been shaped right up to the present day. Set out on a journey into the past that is guaranteed to be full of surprises.”

Cool! That sounds like a bit of us.

The oldest known wooden wheel with an axle in the world. 😮
Found in the Ljubljana Marsh belonged to a two-wheel cart. Around 3200 BC.

Stone axes from pile dwellings around 4500BC – 2500BC, City Museum of Ljubljana.

Glass dishes and bottles from the Roman Empire, 1st-4th Centuries.

Emonec, 2nd Century, National Museum of Slovenia.

Clay pottery – symbols of settlement and colonisation, 10th – 15th Centuries. City Museum of Ljubljana.

Guild Money Box of Maribor Blacksmiths, 18th Century. Regional Museum Maribor.

Plates from Ljubljana Potters, 16th Century. City Museum of Ljubljana.

Tiles, parts of clay ovens; 16th – 17th Century. City Museum of Ljubljana.

Map of Gorizia, Kart, Carniola, Istria Dan Slovenian Marks. Wolfgang Lazius, 1572.

Map of Carinthia, I.B. Elwe & D.M. Langeweld, Amsterdam. Mid 18th Century.

Map of the Carniola Dukedom, Slovenian marks and Istria, J.B.Homann, Nuremberg, c.1715.

Map of Styria, J. Bleu, Amsterdam, c.1650.

World War II was one of the darkest chapters in Slovenia for their Jewish population. At that time the most powerful Jewish communities were in Prejmurje, particularly in the area of Lendava and Murska Sobota. Persecution of Slovenian Jews started from when the Nazis came to power in 1933, and got significantly worse when Slovenia was annexed by the Nazi forces in 1941. In 1944 the Slovenian Jewish population were subjected to mass deportations to Nazi concentration camps and most of the deported Slovenian Jews died in the notorious Auschwitz Death Camp.

Model of the Ljubljana Castle.

Awww… an Insta-worthy spot in the castle courtyard.

There was one more major section of the castle to check out – the 4D History of Slovenia Experience! Now, after recently being traumatised with a virtual tour at the Ghent Cathedral in April, I wasn’t keen to do the thing. And Angus wasn’t keen either – so I bribed him… if he gives me a photo op in the flower arrangement of fakeness, we can skip the 4D of hokiness. Ta-da! I love him so much… <3

The Dragon’s Den: not what we were expecting, but well and truly in keeping with the vibe of the castle.

Views over the city from the top of the funicular.

Ljubljana Cathedral was originally a Gothic three nave Romanesque church, but in the 18th century it was replaced with the current Baroque building. It is a prominent landmark on the city skyline with its green dome and twin towers, and it is located a the Cyril and Methodist Square, which is right by the Ljubljana central markets.

The doors (below) were created in 1996… the left depicting the History of Slovenia, and the right depicting the 20th Century bishops of Ljubljana.

Giulio Quaglio created the ceiling frescoes between 1703–1706 and later in 1721–1723.

After the Cathedral we finished our loop by going back over the Love-lock Bridge and heading to the row of pubs and cafes that line the river.

So many locks… all I am hearing is *cha-ching* cash register noises! LOL.

Lunch was carnivore friendly – burger and fries for Angus, some wings for me. They were ok, no one won Menu Lotto today.

I usually don’t go for finger food while travelling – but I have my handy dandy Japanese Happy Raccoon Wash with me and figured the trip is nearly over, so I’d risk it.

Next day we were heading to Villach, via Bled… and today we were really remembering why I don’t like summer or beach vacations! C’mon, Europe, it’s like 34°C and humid today; could have left my air conditioned bubble in summer at home if we wanted to deal with this shit. :/

The drive to Bled was fairly quick and easy – the roads in Ljubljana are okay, and they don’t drive like the Viennese (ie: same speed as the Germans but far more erratically!).

Bled Castle is another picturesque medieval castel built on a high precipice above the small city of Bled, and overlooking the pristine Lake Bled. The oldest record of the castle is from the time its deed appears as a donation from Emperor Henry II to the local bishops – The Bishops of Brixen (they sound like a punk rock band!), in 1011. The castle remained in the ownership of The BIshops for about 800 years apparently, until those pesky Habsburg came along and you know, decided they owned everything in about 1278. Today – it is a wee (and twee) historical musem and is one of Slovenia’s most popular tourist attractions.

When searching for information on the castle, I found all the info about accessible parking and erroneously assumed that meant, that the damn place was accessible. I was fucking wrong. The route into the castle was a long walk up a steep incline on really crappy old cobbles. :/

Views from the castle over Lake Bled.

This place doesn’t look real.

It’s a cute little castle but not a lot there to keep you interested for long… I imagine people who hike up there might find themselves spending more time there than we did just to justify the hike! But sadly, it’s all too touristy. We decided to go for a drive around the lake and check out some picture locations – and found out that every Slovenian and their dog was at the lake for the day, there was no where to stop even temporarily to take some pics… so below are some of my best High Speed Landscape Photography happy snaps. That is to say, they were taken out the car windows!

Duolingo keeps teaching me phrases about going ‘grilling (BBQ’ing) at the lake on the weekend’ and for the life of me I couldn’t figure out why it was such a a recurring theme. But now we’ve seen some of their lakes through Germany, Austria and this region and know how far away the beaches are, so it all makes more sense now.

The Church of the Assumption or the Church of the Mother of the Lake or one of the half a dozen other names it has:

Not bad for snapped out the window at 50kmph!

It’s certainly a pretty area.

We bailed out of Bled fairly quickly – just too many people – and off to Villach!

Vienna – Kunsthistoriches

I first came to Vienna and visited the Kunsthistoriches in 1995, and my most enduring memory of that visit was a truly flamboyant Austrian fellow in a brown suede jacket, showing us through the museum. He had a truly FABULOUS accent and was frequently referring to zee Emperah FRanzz JOseff and his wife, the Emprezs Merria TerrEEsia! I can still hear his voice nearly 30 years later. What I can say about that guide is that he set me on a path of analysing the visual. On that one visit, I went from admiring a picture because I thought it was pretty or appealing to looking for more meaning and symbolism – especially in medieval, religious and renaissance art. I wish I knew his name, he was a cool guy who brought he galleries to life.

I was quite keen to be here with 1) more time and 2) degrees in visual art and art history under my belt to see whether the same sorts of things resonated, or how differently I would perceive them seeing I have experienced so much more of the world since then.

I forgot how utterly stunning the building itself is. I remember it feeling like a rabbit warren, but had forgotten about the gorgeous vaulted spaces an magnificent staircases – I say, ‘staircases’, for there are several.

Built c. 1870-1890, it is one of the world’s most recognisable art museums – behind the Louvre and the MET perhaps. I think you could wander around and photograph just the building for half a day if you so choose. The dome is 200’ high and all the interiors are lavish with marble, stucco, gold leaf and murals.

We don’t build things like this anymore… I think it’s a shame.

Initial stop was a quick fly by through the cartoon galleries. These cartoons are not some of the most visited objects in the musuem, and as such seemed to be quite lacking in information. The

Hunters in the Snow – Pieter Bruegel the Elder, 1565, Antwerp and Brussels.
The group of hunters returns to the low-lying village, accompanied by an exhausted pack of dogs. Only a single fox hangs on one of the spears slung over the men’s shoulders. To the left preparations are afoot to singe a pig over an open fire. Delightful details such as skaters on frozen ponds have added to the picture’s enormous popularity. Yet it is not the sum total of details that make the picture important, rather its overall effect. In a manner both virtuosic and consistent, Bruegel evokes the impression of permanent cold in this first and most prominent winter landscape of European painting.

The Tower of Babel – Pieter Bruegel the Elder, 1563, Antwerp and Brussels.
Bruegel’s monumental composition became the most famous, most often copied and varied classic depiction of the tower. Perspective is provided by the seemingly Flemish port which seems tiny in comparison with the tower. Painstakingly, and in encyclopedic detail, Bruegel depicts countless technical and craftsmanship processes. He blends elements from antique and Romanesque architecture in the stone structure around the building’s exterior.

Massacre of the Innocents – Pieter Bruegel the Younger, c.1575, Antwerp and Brussels.
The biblical subject of the infanticide ordered by Herod is relocated by Bruegel to a snowy Flemish village. The event is brought up to date to resemble a contemporary penal expedition due to the clothing, as the troops on horseback with their red tunics were a kind of police unit.

Peasant Wedding – Pieter Bruegel the Elder, c.1568, Brussels and Antwerp.
The apparent “snapshot” of this picture is in fact carefully composed. Dispensing with allegorical meaning the painting is a realistic record of a Flemish peasants’ wedding. The bride sits in front of a green tapestry, a paper crown hangs over her. The bridegroom was not present at the wedding feast in accordance with Flemish custom. A lawyer with a mortar-board, a Franciscan monk and the lord of the manor with his dog (to the far right) are all visible; the porridge dishes carried in on an unhinged door are utterly simple, and the posture and gait of the carriers are similarly striking.

Peasant Dance, 1568
The opening dance of the country fair is depicted: a traditional leaping dance which was carried out by two pairs only and preceded the general dance. The pair in the foreground rushes to do this, but is distracted by the scene to the far left: a beggar (or is it a pilgrim?) approaches a table begging for alms. Bruegel’s view of peasants is neither condescending nor humorous – rather realism bordering on idealism dominates.

Children’s Games – Pieter Bruegel the Elder, 1560, Brussels and Antwerp.
From a bird’s eye perspective – this was the only way Bruegel could render visible the impressive crowd of figures – we look on to a cast square. Over 230 children are occupied with playing 83 different games. For those wishing to decipher all the games, the minuteness of the scenes necessitates slow and selective study – a pleasurable pastime indeed. Bruegel’s composition is without precedent or parallel in the fine arts and can be seen as a painted “encyclopaedia” – albeit without any moralising undertones.

The Fight Between Carnival and Lent – Pieter Bruegel the Elder, 1559, Brussels and Antwerp.
In the foreground of this encyclopaedia of Netherlands customs related to Carnival and Lent, Bruegel presents an allegorical jousting tournament as they actually occurred in the 15th and 16th centuries: on the left “Carnival” rides on a barrel, holding a roast on a spit as his weapon; on the right he is opposed by the skinny “Lent” extending a baker’s shovel with two fishes. The other details in this scene are also in keeping with the reality of the time as recorded in folklore. The depiction of everything happening in the same place at the same time, however, is Bruegel’s invention.

Jane Seymour, c.1536/37 – Hans Holbein, London.

Judith with the Head of Holofernes and a Servant, Lucas Cranach, c.1537, Vienna.
The book of Judith in the Bible tells the story of how the young widow saved her hometown of Bethulia from being conquered by the Assyrians: Having won the affections of the enemy general Holofernes, Judith cut off his head with his sword as he slept drunk. Among the numerous depictions of this theme by Cranach, this painting is exceptional as it even shows the heroine’s servant.

Judith with the head of Holofernes – Lucas Cranach, c.1530, Vienna.
With cunning and courage, the Old Testament heroine succeeded in entering the camp of Holofernes outside the city of Bethulia. There she put an end to the threat his troops posed by decapitating the enemy general. Cranach’s large workshop created all of the known half-length versions of Judith around the year 1530. Judith became the symbolic figure of Protestant resistance to the armies of Charles V.

Stag Hunt of Elector John Frederick – Lucas Cranach, 1544, Wittenberg.
This depiction of a stag hunt is of the same type of courtly hunting picture created by Lucas Cranach the Elder. In the distance is the city of Torgau on the Elbe with Hartenfels Castle, which was finished in 1544. Prominent hunting guests can be seen in the foreground. In reality, however, they were never in or near Torgau: on the extreme left is Emperor Charles V, next to Elector Palatine Frederick, with Elector John Frederick of Saxony further to the front, under the tree in the middle of the paining is Duke Philip I of Brunswick.

Adam and Eve – Lucas Cranach the Elder, c.1510/20, Vienna, Wittenberg and Weimar.
The first human couple is depicted monumentally on two separate panels, set against a black background. The spatial context is defined by the ‘Tree of Knowledge’. The serpent writhes around the branch on the right: we can see it has already performed its act of seduction, for Eve has bitten from the apple in her hand. Mary and jesus are depicted on the rear sides of the panels, meaning that they probably made up the wings of an altarpiece. Despite this religious context, Cranach exploits the biblical theme to display the full subtlety of his art of nude painting.

Emperor Maximilian I – Albrecht Dürer, c.1519, Nuremberg.
The emperor is depicted here as an elegant private gentleman. The desired effect of dignity and power is achieved by the manner in which the emperor fills the frame and the brilliant execution of the fur collar. Several different interpretation have been suggested for the pomegranate in the emperor’s hand: as a private proxy for the imperial orb; as a reference to the myth of Persephone and thus a reference to death; and as an allusion to the conquest of Granada by the Christian armies in 1492.

Seeing this particular painting here back in 1995 spurred on my interest in art and art history… not long after that trip, I went back home and enrolled in a Bachelor of Fine Arts at Qld College of Art.

The Art of Painting – Johannes Vermeer, c.1666/68, Delft.
With his depiction of the painter in his studio, Vermeer turns this genre painting into an allegory of the art of painting. His model is posing as Clio, the Muse of history, who inspires the painter and proclaims the glory of painting in the old Nether-lands, which she has immortalised in the book of history. The unity of the arts is reflected in the sculpture model, sketchbook and the work in progress on the easel. The map with the 17 provinces of the Netherlands before they were divided into north and south is a reference to a land that had always owed its fame to the art of painting.

The Cuckold Bridegroom – Jan Steen, c.1670
Jan Steen has opulently painted a genre scene with a morally instructive message. A somewhat older bridegroom is leading his reluctant and clearly heavily pregnant bride away from a party to their wedding night. The guests – including the artist, who has painted himself in the middle wearing a blue cape and playing a friction drum – are aware of the bride’s condition: on the right a young man is making the sign of the cuckold, holding up his hand with two spread fingers.

Angelica and the Hermit – Peter Paul Rubens, c.1625/28, Antwerp.
One episode in Ariosto’s epic poem “Orlando furioso” (1516) describes how the heroine Angelica is pursued by a hermit who has fallen in love with her. Using his knowledge of magic, he casts a spell on her horse and takes her over the ocean to a remote island. Because she still rejects him, he makes her drink a sleeping potion so that he can kneel before her and admire her beauty.

The Feast of Venus – Peter Paul Rubens, c.1636/37, Antwerp/
A celebration of the omnipotence of love. It is based in part on a description in antiquity of a Greek painting in which a cult image of Aphrodite is decorated by nymphs, with winged cupids dancing around it. Rubens’s great role model, Titian, had been inspired by it in 1518 to create a painting that was later copied by Rubens. The open brushwork and differentiation in the coloration are a profession of admiration for Titian’s late works; the ecstatic intensity in this revival of antiquity is, however, Rubens’s highly personal.

Thank goodness the Kunsthistoriches has so many seating areas – it’s an enormous gallery.

The Holy Family Beneath an Apple Tree – Peter Paul Rubens, c.1630/32, Antwerp.

Infanta Isabella Clara Eugenia – Peter Paul Rubens, c.1620, Antwerp.

Self Portrait – Rembrandt, c.1638/40, Antwerp.

The Head of Medusa – Peter Paul Rubens, c.1617/18, Antwerp.
This paining is quite a departure for Rubens usual style and is understood to be a political allegory symbolising the victory of Stoic reason over the enemies of virtue… deep!

Winter Landscape – Lucas von Valckenborch, c.1586, Antwerp, Linz and Frankfurt.

The snow is rendered in an impressionistic style that Bruegel apparently used first… photographing falling snow is difficult, so I imagine painting it is equally difficult.

Bow-Carving Amor – Josef Heintz, c.1603, Augsburg and Prague.
I think this painting is fascinating – the named subject is almost the background or the architecture of the image, and the eye is immediately drawn to the impish or evil little ‘angel’ who is taking a cruel delight in restraining his companion and digging his nails into them. The actual Bow Carver looks serene and oblivious and is almost superfluous to the composition.

The Miracles of St Francis Xavier – Peter Paul Rubens, c.1617/18, Antwerp.

The Fish Market – Frans Snyders, c.1620/30, Antwerp.
This image looks like two different styles, the sill life elements are rendered with exquisite detail, but the figures seem rough and undetailed in comparison – turns out Snyders did the still life fish market parts, but a colleague, Cornelis de Vos. Link to a large much image, the details are awesome: https://www.khm.at/en/objectdb/detail/1797/

The Hieronymus Altar – Jacob Cornelisz van Oostsanen, c.1511, Amsterdam.
The centre picture shows St. Hieronymus as a cardinal with his attribute, the lion, from the paw of which he had pulled a thorn; in the fore-ground we see the kneeling benefactors of the altar; in the background scenes from legends about the saint. Saints are depicted on the wings, while on the outer side is shown High Mass as celebrated by Pope Gregory, to whom Christ appears.

Triptych: The Crucifixion – Roger van der Weyden, c.1440.

St. Johan Miniature Altar – Hans Memling, c.1486/90, Brugge.

Altarpiece of the Archangel Michael – Gerard David, c.1510, Antwerp.
Michael triumphs over the powers of evil who appear here in the sinister realism of devilishly strange hybrid creatures. Seven in number, they remind us of the seven cardinal sins. In a small side-scene in the background the angels can be seen, led by Michael, struggling against the fallen angels of Satan, now turned into demons. On the inner wings are St. Hieronymus and St. Antony of Padua, on the outer wings St Sebastian and a female Saint with a boy.

Christ Carrying the Cross – Hieronymus Bosch, c.1450. Wood panel, painted on both sides.
Bosch sets the scene in his present so as to make clear to the viewer the immorality of the world. The expression of evil is concentrated in the henchmen’s grimaces, which heralds a new psychological moment in the history of painting, The child with its toddler’s chair and pinwheel on the reverse of the panel has been variously interpreted, by some as the Infant Jesus, by others as an allegory of folly; particularly striking In any case is the contrast established between the child’s innocence and the wickedness in the Passion scene,

Lot and his Daughters – Lucas Cranach the Elder, c.1528, Vienna, Wittenberg and Weimar.

Infanta Margarita in a White Dress – Diego Velázquez, 1656, Seville and Madrid.

Allegory of Vanitas – Antonio de Pereda, c.1634, Madrid.
A winged genius embodies “Vanitas”, the reminder of the transience of all things mortal. Objects are arrayed before him in Baroque profusion as if in a still life, which allude to time rapidly draining away, the futility of power and the fleeting nature of life’s joys. The table surface bears the inscription
“nil omne” (all is trivial). It may be assumed from such references to the House of Habsburg as the small portrait of Charles V in the genius left hand that the picture was commissioned by the court.

Elisabeth of Valois, Queen of Spain – Alonso Sanchez Coello, c.1560, Madrid.

LEFT: Summer – Guiseppe Arcimboldo, 1563, Vienna Prague and Mailand.
RIGHT: Fire – Guiseppe Arcimboldo, 1566, Vienna Prague and Mailand.

LEFT: Winter – Giuseppe Arcimboldo, 1563, Vienna Prague and Mailand.
RIGHT: Water – Guiseppe Arcimboldo, 1566, Vienna Prague and Mailand.

Danae – Titian, c.1554, Venice.
King Acrisius of Argos locked his daughter Danaë in a tower after an oracle told him she would bear a son who would someday kill him. But Jupiter fell in love with Danaë and came down in the form of golden rain to impregnate her. Their son, Perseus, would later kill his grandfather accidentally with a discus.

St Sebastian – Andrea Mantegna, c.1457/59, Pauda, Verona and Mantua.
Chief bodyguard to Diocletian, Sebastian was sentenced to death for his Christian belief. Sebastian received wide-spread veneration, especially as a source of succour in times of plague. The plague that ravaged Padua in 1456/57 may in fact explain the tableau.

Madonna with Child and the Saints Catherine and Jacob the Elder – Lorenzo Lotto, c.1527/33, Venice.

The Madonna of the Meadow – Raphael, c.1505 or 1506, Florence and Rome.

Mary with the Child and the Saints Francis, Catherine and John – Raphael, c.1504, Bologna.

Saint Margret – Raphael, c.1518, Rome.
Depicted here with sand worms from Dune!

Bathing Nymphs – Palma Vecchio, c.1525/28, Rome.

Snake, Upper Italian, c.1500-1550. Bronze.

Nautilus Cup, Augsburg, c.1624-1626. Nautilus shell, silver and partially gilded.

Cameos from the 11th to the 14th Centuries.

Aquamanile in the Form of a Griffon, Helmarshausen, c.1120-1130.
Gilded bronze, demascened silver, niello and garnet.

Pope Gregory with Scribe, Lorraine, late 10thC, Ivory.

Incense boat, Venice, 15thC, amethyst, gilded silver, traces of enamel.

Griffon’s Claw Drinking Horn, Northern German, c.1350-1400. Horn, gilded silver.

Bowl, German, c.1350-1400, Burr wood and gilded copper.

Wilten Communion Chalice with Paten Straws, Lower Saxony, c.1160/70, Partially gilded silver, niello.

Klappaltärchen – Small Folding Altarpiece, Northern French, c.1375-1400, gilded silver and enamel.

The Klappaltächen is approximately 6cm x 12cm.

Crosier with the Coronation of the Virign, Venice, late 14thC. Gilded and painted bone.

Two Lidded Beakers, Burgundian-Netherlandish, c.1420/30. Partially gilded silver, enamel, metal foils.

Lidded Cup of imperor Frederick II
Burgundian-Netherlandish,
C.1473

Partially gilded silver, rock crystal, enamel, metal foils

The arms and inscriptions on this lidded beaker refer to Emperor Frederick III.

Angels present his so called motto, with the metal foils that have them offering one of its many suggest interpretations:

“aquila eíus fuste omnia vincet” –
“His eagle will rightly triumph over everything*.

The emperor is said to have received the beaker in 1473 as a gift from Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy.

Medallion with the Nativity and the Epiphany, Lombard, c.1470/80, Silver and enamel.

Virgin and Child, Southern Germany, c.1500 Partially gilded silver.

Chalice, Lower Saxony, c.1475, gilded silver.

Chalice featuring the Arms of the Counts of Hoya, Lower Saxony, 1498, gilded silver.

Rosary Pendant with the Passion of Christ, a so-called Prayer nut, Netherlandish, early 16thC, Boxwood.

Bowl, Venice, late 15thC/early 16thC, copper and enamel.

Bowl with Biblical and Mythological Scenes, Venice, c.1450-1500. Glass with enamel painting.

Billy Goat called Riccio, Padua, c. 1575-1625s. Bronze.

Drinking Satyr – Andrea Briosco, c.1515/20, Padua, bronze.

Sandshaker in the form of a Toad, Padua, c.1500-1525, bronze.

Seated Pan – Pier Jocopo Alari de Bonacoisi, Mantua, c.1519, Bronze.

Boy Strangling Goose – Andrea Briosco, called Riccio (1470 – 1532), Padua, c.1515/20, Bronze
Although the Greek original of the “Boy Strangling a Goose” is now lost, a number of Roman marble copies and Pliny’s description of it have survived. Briosco was interested in the genre-like motif of this famous sculpture, its lifelikeness and the several views it offers to the onlooker. His virtuoso miniature version is a deliberate attempt to rival the classical masters.
This bronze piece is about 35cm high and has incredible movement in it.

Bacchus – Pier Jacopo Alari de Bonacolsi (c.1455-1528), Manuta, c.1520/22. Partially gilded bronze.

Backgammon Board and Gaming Pieces, c.1537.
Oak, nut wood, rosewood, palisade r, mahogany and bronze.

The Portrait of the Ruler as a Propaganda Medium
During their lifetime various types of portraits in different media depicting the imperial brothers Charles V and Ferdinand / were disseminated throughout Europe. A portrait popularised the sovereign’s features, served as a reminder of him and even represented him when he was absent. The emphasis on family connections with predecessors and/or descendants signalled the continuity of the dynasty’s power.

Medallion with a Portrait of Emperor Charles V, Netherlandish, Mechelen, c1520, gold and enamel.

Portrait of Kaiser Karl V, Southern Germany, after 1520, Limestone.

Table Clock, Southern Germany, c.1545, Partially painted iron, copper alloy.

Winged Altarpiece – workshop of Heinrich Fûllmaurer. German, c.1540. Oil on spruce.
This altarpieces has more pictures in it that’s any other contemporary German artwork – it was commissioned for the Protestant church at Montbeliard before the Reformation categorically banned all images from churches.

Cupids Playing – Daniel Mauch (1477-1540), Ulm, c.1520/30, Partially painted pear wood.
Playing cupids were a popular motif in early Italian Renaissance sculpture; here, the artist repeats it but adds a special interpretation. The fragmentary inscription on the base tells us that this – only ostensibly harmless – game of three winged children should be read as a reflection of the erotic passions of adults.

Well, that is disconcerting!? WTF???

So-called Glutton, Nuremberg, c.1500-1530, Nuremberg, Bronze.

Tapestry with the Arms of Emperor Charles V – William de Pannmaker (c.1535-1581).
Brussels, c.1540. Wool, silk, gold and silver thread.

Scenes from the Book of Tobias : Tobias introducing his traveling companion to his father.
Brussels, c.1540. Wool and silk.

Cabinet – Giovanni Batista Panzeri (c1520-1591), Milan, c.1567-76.
Wood gilded iron, damascene gold and silver, bronze.

Cittern Player Automaton, Spanish, c.1500-1600. Painted wood, iron, linen and silk brocade.
A mechanism inside this figure of a girl makes her playt he cittern, turnher head and trip along the table. In the 16thC, such androids were prized for their ability to imitate Nature. Such works were a speciality of Juanelo Torriano, celebrated clockmaker to Emperor Charles V.

The Triumph of Death over Chastity, French, early 16thC. Wool and silk.
One of a six part series depicting the poem of Triumphs of Petrarch (1304-1374).

Adoration of the Virgin and the Mystic Marriage of Saint Catherine – Master of Helligerkreuz.
French, c.1410/20, tempera on wood, partially gilded.

Game Board for Chess and Backgammon with Twenty Playing Pieces, Venice, c.1300-1350 (some later alterations). Wood with certosina inlay, Japan, bone, agate, chalcedony, painted clay reliefs and miniatures under rock crystal.
In the Middle Ages the game of ches was considered one of the knightly arts. This boards’s numbers figures are based on motifs of the knightly/courtly world and refer to hunting, music, courtly love and the fight against monsters. Very few game boards from the medieval period have been preserved. This one was first documenting the Ambara collection of Archduke Ferdinand II in 1596.

Hexagonal Casket, Embriachi Workshop, Venice, c.1375-1425.
Wood with certosina inlay, bone, traces of paint and gilding.

Octagonal Casket – Embriachi workshop, Venice, cc.1375-1425. Wood with certosina inlay, bone.

Christ as Judge of the World, Netherlandish or Maaslandish, early 15thC, painted wood.

Ornamental Onyx Ewer – Richard Tourain the Younger (master 1558-1519), Paris 1570.
Sardonyx, agate, gold, enamel, rubies, diamonds, emerald, pearl.

Limousine Painted Enamel.
In the 16th Century, the French city of Limoges was a European centre for the production of painted enamel tableware. These plates depict the months of the year, modelled on engraves by Etienne Delaunay, they are decorated in grisaille that was in fashion at the French court. The plaster and bowls were never actually used but served purposes of princely ostentation.

Lidded cup with Diana and her companions – Pierre Raymond, Limoges, c.1554. Copper and enamel.

The Cellini Salt Cellar!
Working in Rome in 1540, Benvenute Cellini made a wax model for a salt container, a ‘Saliera’, for his patron Ippolito d’Este. He designed a goldsmith’s work so extraordinarily complex that the cardinal decided that only the King of France could commission such a work*. Soon after, Cellini entered the service of the French King, Francis I (1494-1547), who actually commissioned him to carry it out. (*that’s one way to say ‘Dude.. that’s beyond my budget!’)

While working in France, Cellini met other Italian artist who the King had appointed to work on the redesign of his palace in Fontainebleau near Paris – painters such as Rosso Florentino and Francesco Primaticcio Brough formal idea of the Italian Renaissance to France. The style of the “School of Fontainebleau” developed there is considered a French variant on the Mannerism art movement.

The French Kings promoted art and science, partly in competition with the House of Habsburg who were their fiercest opponent in the fight for supremacy in Europe. Francis I collected works by the most famous painters such as Raphael, Titian, Leonardo da Vinci. They also commissioned and purchased tapestries, vessels, cameos goldsmiths’ works and other precious objects. Their artistic quality, refinement and elegance were characteristic of the high culture at the court of the French Kings.

Shell shaped bowl, French, c.1560. Lapis lazuli, gold and enamel.

Pendant with Miniature Portraits of King Charles IX and his mother, Catherine de Medici.
François DuJardin (goldsmith, 1543-1587) and François Clouet (painter, 1510-1572).
Gold, enamels and miniature painting.

Bowl in the Form of a Ship, Paris, c.1630. Lapis lazuli, gold, enamel, pearl.

Sewing Box – Elia Lencker (master 1562-1597), Nuremberg, c.1577/89.
Gilded and painted silver, wood, gemstones and velvet. The top of the little box is covered with a cushion that served as a support for lacemaking. The relives on the outside depicts female figures from teh Old Testament: the Queen of Sheba, Rebecca and Abigail – their virtues clearly designed to serve as an inspiration for the box’s nobles owner. Inside features a number of drawers and compartments.

Lidded Cup, Spanish or Antwerp (?), c.1560. Rhinoceros horn, gold and enamel.

Stationary Horizontal Sundial – Christoph I Schißler, Southern German, c.1564. Gilded copper alloy

Horizontal Sundial in the Shape of a Lute, Southern Germany, c.1550-1600.
Copper alloy, gold plated, ivory, glass and silver.

Ever with Handle in the Form of a Serpent, Freiburg im Bresigau or Munich, late 16thC.
Rock crystal, gold enamel, emeralds, rubies, pearls.

Pendant Capsule with a Portrait of Duchess Anna of Bavaria – Munich Court Workshop, c.1579/1590.
Gold, deep cut enamel, miniature painting.

Pendant with Whistle, Ear Spoon and Toothpick in base – Allegory of Bravery, Augsburg, c.1570/80.
Gold, enamel, pearls, rubies, diamonds.

Casket, Nuremberg, c.1560-70. Wood, gilded copper, mother of pearl reverse-side glass painting.
The rich decoration of the casket is dominated by reverse side glass painting in lacquer paints with gold foil and depicts the months of the year, the Muses and the Virtues after engravings by the Nuremberg draughtsmen and engraver, Virgil Solis.

Double Cup – Part of a ten piece set, Fredrich Hildebrand, Nuremberg c.1593-1600
Silver, gold-plated, mother of pearl, emeralds, rubies.
In 1600, Duke Wilhelm V of Bavaria gave this ensemble to his daughter Maria Anna for her wedding to her cousin, the future Emperor Ferdinand II. It testifies to the close family ties between the houses of Wittelsbach and Habsburg, as well as the great importance of gifts for the holdings of princely art chambers. The mother-of-pearl decoration cites Indian models.

Automaton in the Form of a Ship – Hans Schlottheim (c.1544-1625), Augsburg, c. 1585. Gilded and partially painted silver, copper alloy, iron.
Centrepieces in the shape of a ship have a long tradition; the decorative figures and coats of arms glorify the ruler and his empire. A complex mechanism propels the ship across the table while the crew moves to music from inside the ship. As a nightly the cannon also fire a salvo.

Mechanical Celestial Globe
Georg Roll (1546-1592)
Augsburg, c. 1584.

Gilded and partially pained copper alloy, silver, enamel, wood and iron.

Cruciform Pendant Watch – Konrad Kreisler, Augsburg, c.1600.
Gold, enamel, rock crystal, gilded copper alloy and iron.

Lidded Prase Vessel on a High Foot- Octavio Miseroni (1567-1624), Prague, c.1600.
Prase, heliotrope, gold, enamel, garnets, citrine, amethyst, hyacinth.

Narwhal Goblet… NARWHAL GOBLET!!!
Cup: Jan Vermeyen (1559-1608), Miseroni workshop, Prague, c.1600. Cameos: Milan, same period.
Narwhal tusk, gold, enamel, diamonds, rubies, agate ivory.

Book cover – Jan Vermeyen (1559-1608), Prague, c.1600-1605. Heliotrope, gold enamel and garnets.

Stacking Box, Munich, 1586.
Lathe work: Giovanni Ambrogio Maggiore (c1550-1617). Painting: Georg Hoefnagel (1542-1600).
Ivory, body colours.

‘I Trionfi’ Ornamental Basin and Ewer set – Christoph Lamnitzer (1563-1618), Nuremberg, 1601/02.
Gilded silver and enamel.

The conventional ewer and basin set that was used at the courtly table for the washing of hands, transformed into a showpiece glorifying the emperor. The rich and complex decoration is inspired by the allegorical poem ‘I Trionfi’ (Triumphs) by Petrarch. Eternity, which crowns the ewer, triumphs over Love, Chastity, Death, Fame and Time.

Mercury – Johann Gregor van der Schardt (1530-1581), Nuremberg, c.1570/1578. Bronze.

Double-headed Eagle with the Coat of Arms of Bohemia – Giovanni Castrucci, Prague c. 1610.
Image made of gold and cut garnet, lapis lazuli, cornelian, agate, chalcedony, jasper.

The Annunciation and the Adoration of the Shepherds – Paolo Piazza (1557-1621), Prague, 1602.
Painted Alabaster.
In the 16thC, Italian painters in particular experimented with various types of stone for cabinet and devotional pictures. Inspired by the stones’ natural colouration and pattern, they incorporated them into their designs. This type of painting flourished at the court of Emperor Rudolph II.

Shell shaped Cup – Hans Kobenhaupt (d.1623), Agate, gilded silver and enamel.

Cup with handles, Southern Germany, c.1675-1700. Amethyst, gold, enamel and garnets.

Lidded Tankard – Andreas Osenbruck of the Miseroni Workshop, Prague, c.1612-19.
Jasper, gold, enamel, garnets.

Vessel – Gian Stefano Caroni (d.1617), Florence, c.1575-81. Lapis lazuli, gold enamel.

Lidded cup
Nikolaus Pfaff (c.1556-1612)
Prague, 1611.

Rhinoceros Horn, warthog tusks, gilded, and partially painted silver.

This ornate cup from the Kunstkammer of Emperor Rudolph II has a lid that encases a warthog’s jaw, the tusks of which for the horns of a monstrous face. Together with the small animals, this will have stood for the demonic side of nature, which the healing powers of the rhinoceros horns vessel, seemingly beset with branded coral, were believed to banish.

Drinking Horn in the form of a Dragon
Cornelius Gross (1534-1575).
Augsburg, c. 1560.

Tortoise shell, gilded silver, enamel and remains of paint.

A tortoise shell Horne, asn an exotic rarity was adapted into a bizarre drinking vessel by an Augsburg goldsmith. The winged dragon stands atop a tortoise and turns its neck aggressively towards the viewer. A small satyr on its back bears the arms of an Earl of Montfort-Tettnang, from whose estate the objected entered the collection of Archduke Ferdinand II of Tyrol.

Casket: Indo-Portuguese or SriLankan, mid 16thC. Ivory.
Mountings: Southern German, c.1575. Silver.

Vessel, Sri Lankan and Iberian, c.1550-1600. Coconut bezoar, rhinoceros horn, gilded silver.

I have no description for this beautiful basin and ewer set.

Drinking Vessel, Chinese Ming Dynasty, early 17thC cup, Goa India,late 17thC mounting.
Carved rhinoceros horn and gold.

Bowl, Goa, India, 17thC. Gold and bezoar.

Bowl with Symbols of Long Life, Chinese Ming Dynasty, c.1575.
Mounting: Ottoman, c.1600. Nephrite, gold and rubies.

Casket, Gujarat India, late 16thC. Teak, mother of pearl, silver.

Centrepiece in the Form of a Pelican – Hans Steidlin (master 1555-1607), Ulm, 1583.
Gilded and partially painted silver.

Three Figurines of Commedia d’arte, Venice, c.1575. Glass, enamel, iron wire, wood.

Toilette Service, Venice, c.1550.
Mother of pearl, bone, lacquer paint, silver, iron, silk, ivory, natural bristle, glass.

The Mercury Beaker, Antwerp, c. 1560. Gold, enamel, emeralds, rubies.

Bear as Hunter – Gregor Bair (master 1573-1604), Augsburg and Munich, c.1580/81.
The Bear Hunter is amongst the most popular motifs of the ‘world turned upside-down’ where the quarry becomes the hunter. A drinking cup is unexpectedly hidden in the removable heard, a miniature game board is found in the base and due to a coating, the object smells of ambergris. Hunt, game and drink illustrates forms of courtly amusement. Silver, gold, brass, enamel, irone, ambergris, jewels.

Game Board and Pieces for Draughts and Backgammon – Hans Repfl (c.1550-1600), Innsbruck, c.1575.
This game board and its pieces, richly decorated with wooden intarsia and zinc inlay represent Archduke Ferdinand II as sovereign of tyro and Further Austria as a member of the house of Habsburg. The dynastic-genealogical and political program is linked with cosmological aspects represented by reliefs of gods.

Table Clock, Augsburg, c.1573
Gilded bronze, silver, partially blued iron.

Polyhedral Table Sundail- Mongramist CG, Austrian, dated 1576. Painted wood.

Automaton Clock with a Parrot, Southern German, c.1580/90.
Bronze, gilded copper, silver enamel, iron and brass.

Clock with Wooden Case – Hans Kiening (c.1505-1586), Füssen im Aligäu, c.1577/78.
Wood, painted paper, gilded brass, tin, iron.

Trumpeter Automaton – Hans Schlottheim (1544-1625), Augsburg, 1582.
Ebony, palisades, gilded silver, enamel, gilded brass, iron. An ingenious clockwork for the musical mechanism and the movements of the drummers and trumpeters is concealed in the tower.

Coin Cabinet of Archduke Ferdinand II,
Augsburg, c. 1580.

Ebony, Ivory, gilded bronze, rock crystal, pearls, glass.





Horoscope Amulet of Wallenstein.

Southern German, c.1600-1610.
Rock crystal, gold, gilded silver.
















Smelling Salts Bottle in the Form of a Fish, Spanish, 17thC. Gold, enamel and diamonds.

Ornate jug with Cameo Decorations, Flemish Antwerp, c. 1620. Cameos from 14thC to 17thC.
Onyx, chalcedony, carnelian, coral; Commesso; Setting: silver, gold-plated, gold, enamel, rubies, diamonds, emeralds, turquoise.

Several cabinets in the imperial treasury of the 17th century were filled with vessels made of precious materials. The position and importance of the House of Habsburg were particularly clearly demonstrated by these showpieces – some of which were commissioned, some of which were gifts. The multi-part setting with cameos, pearls and precious stones as well as the newly established enamel painting determine the rich appearance of many of these works.

Lidded Tankard, Prague, c. 1620/30. Jasper, gold, enamel, rubies.

Phoenix – Master of Furies, c.1600-1625, Salzburg, Ivory.
The figure of a bird interpreted as a phoenix demonstrates the play between nature and art typical of princely art and treasuries.The master transformed the smooth elephant tusk into tousled plumage, contrasting the conventional emphasis on the silken, lustrous surface of ivory with the virtuosic differentiation of textures throughout… this thing is FUCKING COOL! I love it.






Table Clock, So-called Mirror Clock.
Monogrammist IH,
Augsburg or Frankfurt, c. 1670.

Partially gilded silver, gemstones, rubies an enamel.













Precious Natural Matieral in Early Baroque Art – Amber Vessel, c. 1620-1660.

Automaton in the Form of a Galley, Stuttgart, c.1626. Ivory, brass, line, silk, iron.
Design: Georg Burrer (d.1627). Carving: Georg Ernst (d.1634), Mechanism: Christoph Schorkfel (1626).

The belly of this warship contains a movement that makes the galley roll over the table and the chained prisoners row. The ship and its crew, carefully executed down to the finest details, was made in Stuttgart by two ivory turners and a clockmaker, whose names are conveyed by a contemporary slip of parchment inside the galley.

Description was missing… we have noticed in some of the side galleries there are so many objects crammed into display cabinets and there are no descriptions on them at all! This collection is so enormous – any single one of these items would get a room to itself and a full wall of explanation if it were in a museum in the southern hemisphere!

Ulrich Baumgartner Cabinet.

Ebony, agate, turquoise, jasper, copper, enamel, bronze, ivory, mother of pearl, coral and shells.

Cabinet: Augsburg, c. 1631-34.

Stand later addition : Georg Haupt (1741-1784), Stockholm, 1776.












Collection of 16thC earrings, with no further descriptions:

Again, no description – but thes were such a beautiful objects. Flowers carved from solid stone, in vases made from solid stone with silver filigree handles set with garnets. Gorgeous.

Calculator – Anton Braun (1686- 1728), Vienna, 1727. Gided and partially tinned brass.
The clockmaker, optician and mechanic to the Viennese court, Anton Braun, created this pinwheel machine for the mechanised computation of various basic arithmetical operations and dedicated it to Emperor Charles VI. The device was primarily conceived for land surveying calculations.

Late Roman Rings, 3rd-4th C, from Cibolae (Vincovel, Croatia). Gold.

Jupiter Dolichenus, Bronze, solid cast, bull partly hollow, pedestal made of bronze sheet.
The god stands on the back of a bull, dressed in a Phrygian cap, long sleeved undergarment, muscle armour, cloak and half boots. In his right hand he holds the double axe (only the handle remains). In his left a lightning bolt. The inaction names the veteran Marius Ursinus as the donor… all that and no date?

Gold treasure of Nagyszentmiklos, Early Middle Ages, 7th-9th Centuries AD.
Found in 1799, Nagyszentmiklos (now Sannicolau Mare, Romania).

Dining and drinking tableware. Provincial Roman: jug, wine strainer, hinged lid. Bronze.

Zierplate, Germanise, 5thC AD. Gold, garnet.

Maximianus I, Herculeus. 293/294 AD. Gold, inlays of garnet.

Gold bracteate pendant. Gold inlaid with garnet.

Jewellery form the Early Migration Period. 400-450C AD. Gold, partly with garnet inlays
Neck ring, bent into a horse bridle. From Kronstadt (Brasov, Romania)

Germanic Imitations, Braceate pendants, 364-378AD. Gold.

Bracteate Pendant, 375-378 AD, Gold.

Finger rings, Byzantine of Byzantine styles. 6-7thC AD. Gold.

Golden Brooches. Two roll brooch. Three button brooch. Gold brooch.

Gold Basket Earrings. From Ceneda Italy, c.6-7thC.

Gold Jewellery: Gold with garnet inlays.
Pair of Earrings. Necklace with pendants. Necklace. Pair of bracelets with animal heads. Finger rings. Plates with gold glass inlay.

Finger Rings, Roman, 3rdC AD. Gold partly inlaid, garnet.

Brooch with Inscription: “VTERE FELIX” – “USE IT WITH LUCK”
Roman, end of 3rdC AD. Gold, openwork technique, filigree and granulation decoration

Treasure found by Stiagysomiyo, East Germanic, deposited c.550AD.
Found in 1797 in Sailegysmolyo (today Simlue Silvaniei, Romania)
Body Chain with 52 Pendants. Gold, smokey quartz.

Onyx Fibula. Roman, 3rdC AD. From the grave find at Osziropataka (today Ostrovany, Eastern Slovakia).
Gold, open work technique, onyx.

Century Brooch, Roman late antiquity. C.460AD. Found in Rebreny (near Nagymihaly, today Michalow).
Gold, onyx, garnet, amethyst, glass paste.

Belt Buckle with Cell Inlay, c. 500-550AD. Bronze, inlays: glass and pearl.

NECKLACE WITH PENDANTS – Silver Treasure from Zalesie, Byzantine-provincial.
Late 6th – 7th century AD. Found in 1838 in Zalesie (Ukraine).
Silver, decorated with filigree and granulation, partially gold-plated. Inlays: glass.

Grave Find from Assmeritz, Germanic, c.400AD.
Found in 1818 near Assmeritz (today Nasoburky, Czech Replubic.

Grave find from Alt-Ofen (Budapest, Hungary), c.460AD.
Pair of polyhedron earrings. Gold earrings with garnet inlays.

Temple Jewellery Eagle Heads, Small Bells. Based on a Byzantine model, 100-750AD.
From Rackeve (Hungary). Gold, blue glass inlay.

BELT COMPONENTS:
Bronze; partly white metal coating.
Decorative disc, from Worms (Germany)
Belt buckle, from Dunapentele (Hungary)
Belt buckles, counter plate, From Reims (France)

Gemma Augustea, Roman, 9 – 12 AD
Two-layered sardonyx, setting: gold ring, back in ornamented openwork

In the upper strip of the picture, Augustus is enthroned in the costume and pose of Jupiter, holding a scepter and augur’s staff. To his right sits Roma, the patroness of the city. Between the heads of the two figures is Capricorn, the star of Augustus’s birth, and at his feet is the eagle. On the right side is a group of allegorical figures: Oikumene, the inhabited earth (she holds a wreath of oak leaves over the emperor’s head), Okeanos: the personification of the sea, and Italia with a cornucopia and two boys. Next to Roma stands Augustus’ great-nephew, Germanicus, in officer’s uniform. On the left, Tiberius, the emperor’s stepson and designated successor, climbs down from a chariot of two horses driven by Victoria; he is crowned with laurel and holds a long sceptre.

In the lower strip of the picture, gods (3) erect a tropaion (victory monument) and lead captured barbarians towards them. The depiction may refer to the suppression of the Dalmatian uprising: on January 16, 10 AD, the commander-in-chief of the Roman troops, Tiberius, entered Rome; here he appears before the emperor as the victor.

Negau Helmet with Harigastin Inscription, Italian-Slovenian type, c.450-500BC. From the Zenjak-Negau (Slovenia) Hoard, cast and re-embossed bronze.

The bronze helmet, decorated with rows of punched ornaments, is one of the oldest Negau helmets from the Zenjak-Negau hoard. It owes its fame to the inscription that was carved into the brim in a North Italian, probably Venetian or Rhaetian, alphabet.

The owner’s inscription “harigastiteiva” written from right to left mentions the presumably Gaermanic name, Harigast and is therefore one of the oldest known Germanic language monuments. “Teiva” is probably to be interpreted as his second name. The end of the text is marked by three slashes followed by two filler characters. The character sequences “IIXIIX” are engraved in two other places on the brim, though their meaning is unclear – they could be numerals of ownership or manufacturers marks.

Stamnos With Underworld Scene, Faliscan red-figure, c.325-300BC, Clay.
The deceased is depicted in the centre, she sits on her cloak and plays the layer. In front of her a female demon of death raise one of its snake-entwined arms threatening, while Charun rushes towards her from behind a dragon-like snake. The Etruscan demon of the underworld whose name comes from the Unified Man of the Dead, Charon. The twisted handles end in a sea monster on each side.

Achilles and Penthesileia Volute Krater
Apulian red-figure, 2nd quarter of the 4th century BC, Clay.
Reading vases is a particular skill – one which I have never acquired, so I was thankful for the placards:
This krater was created in one of the leading Apulian workshops in Taranto in the second quarter of the 4th century BC and is attributed to the Ilioupersis Painter.
Scene belongs is the battle for Troy: the death of Queen Penthesileia in the arms of Achilles. After the death of Hector, the Amazons came to the aid of the Trojans. Penthesileia is fatally wounded by Achilles, but they fall in love. The Amazon queen has fallen from her horse, Achilles is holding the collapsing queen. On the left is a mounted Amazon with the queen’s horse rearing up. Above is the goddess Nike and the love god Eros, with wreaths in their hands. On the back, the god Dionysus sits in a circle of two maenads and a satyr.

Amphora with Volute Handles, Malacena Genus, 3rdC BC.

Clay Urns from Chiusi, painted on white ground, 2nd C BC – Hero with Ploughshare Lid, Lying Woman.
The Etruscan inscription pained on the farm reads: Baninei : spectunic” and names the deceased: Larthia from the family Thansina Spetu.

LEFT: Warrior Eye Cup, c.525 BC
CENTRE: Duel Fight Belly Amphora With Lid, c.550 BC
RIGHT: Dionyious Satry and Manaden Amphora, c.525 BC

LEFT: Athena Pseudo-Danathen Amphora, c.525 BC
CENTRE: Kyathos Teamwork, c.500 BC
RIGHT: Xenocles Pottery Inscription Rim Bowl, c.500BC

LEFT: Left food with Sandal-Figuratory Vessel, c.500 BC
CENTRE-LEFT: Oinochoe in the Form of a Female Head, c.470 BC
CENTRE: Oidipus and the Sphinx White Based Lekythos, c.500 BC
CENTRE-RIGHT: Lion and partner White-ground lekythos, c.490 BC
RIGHT: Riding Amazon and Warrior White-ground Oinochoe, c.480 BC

Mythological Due Fligths and Soul Weighing Lebes (Mixing Vessel), Aryan black-figure, 540 – 530 BC. From Caere (Cervetert, Italy).

Lion Hunting Sarcophagus, Roman, c.270-290 AD.
The owner of the tomb is depicted hunting wild animals on horseback with his companions and servants. To his left stands Virtus with a helmet on his head; embodying the bravery and virtue of the deceased. As lion hunting was a privilege of princes and kings this subject infers high social rank of the deceased. Lions also symbolise victory and stood as a grave guard to ward off evil and a symbol. Sarcophagi like this one were made in advance with the main figures facial features to be added for the tomb’s eventual owner.

Bottle from Pinguente, Gallo-Roman, 2ndC AD. From Pinguente (Bizet, Croatia).

Gold Necklace, 2nd C AD.
The fashion of using coins as jewellery became widespread in the later Roman Imperial period from the end of the 2nd C AD, gold coins set in wide settings were worn as pendants on necklaces. This became a particularly popular art form in Egypt. Necklace consists of four braided chains – adjustable length using two ball sleeves. Four gold coins with Faustian the Elder (died 141 AD), her husband Emperor Antoninus Pius (138-161), as well as the Emperors Marcus Aurelius (161-180) and Gordian III (238-244).

Relief Crater, Roman, c. 100 BC.

Grimani Relief Liwin with Young, Roman, 50-100 AD.

Grave Relief of Dionysius and Melitine, Eastern Greek, 200-150 BC.

Theseus and Ariadne Mosaic, Roman 2ndC BC.
Left: Ariadne hands Theseus the ball of wool. Middle: Theseus defeats the Minotaur. Above: Theseus and Ariadne board the ship. Right: The abandoned Ariadne on Naxos. The surrounding pattern represents the Labyrinth.

Four-headed Sphinx, Roman, 250-300 AD.

Barricade from a New Year’s Pavilion.
Late Period 26th Dynasty, reigns of Psammetichus I and II, 664-589 BC.

Sarcophagus of the priest Pa-nehem-isis, Ptolemaic Period, 2nd C BC from Samaria Greywacke.
There is hardly any undecorated surface on this sarcophagus – the tests and representations (gods of the hereafter worship of the sun, the mummy on a bier etc). Most of the texts deal with the sun’s nocturnal journey through the underworld.

Statue group of the god Horus and King, Haremha, New Kingdom, 18th Dynasty, reign of Haremhab,
C.1343 – 1315 BC, Limestone. The king wears the nemes-headcloth with uraeus-serpent and the Double Crown of Upper and Lower Egypt. Horus is depicted with a man’s body but the head of a falcon. As early as the Early Dynastic Period, Horus was worshipped as a sun god and god of the heavens; like the king, he wears a pleated kilt and the Double Crown.

Upper part from a statue of Thutmose III, New Kingdom, 18th Dynasty, Reign of Thutmost III, 1504-1452 BC. Despite the absence of an inscription naming the king depicte in this smiling idealised likeness, he can be identified by its similarly to other securely dates sculptures of him. Here he wears the names, the traditional royal striped head cloth, with a rearing serpent at his brown and king’s wavy false beard.

Stele of Nes-imen, Late Period, 1st half of the 26th Dynasty, c.600-650 BC, Perhaps from Abydos Painted limestone. An offering scene is depicted below the gable of this stele. Nes-omen, an ointment cone on his head, presents offering pile high on a table to the golds Isis and Osiris. In addition to the standard request for offerings for himself, Nes-imens 6 line text includes his genealogy going back three generations.

Decorative Collar – Old Kingdom, end of the 5th to the beginning of the 6th Dynasty, ca. 2450-2350 BC. From Giza, western cemetery. Decorative collar: Faience, gold foil.

Statuette of a hippopotamus, Middle Kingdom, 11th- 12th Dynasty, ca. 2000 BC.
Presumably from Thebes. Faience, greenish-blue glaze, painted.
Statuettes depicting hippopotami, symbolic of a beloved Grabbeigabe, regeneration in the hereafter, were popular grave goods that were placed close to mummies.

LEFT: Coffin of Hor, Ptolemaic period, around 3rd century BC, Wood; stucco, painted, gilded.
RIGHT: Coffin of Ptah-irdis, Ptolemaic period, around 3rd century BC, Probably made of el-Hiba wood; stucco, painted.



Left: chest with bird figure
Ptolemaic period, around 3rd-2nd century BC
Wood; stucco, painted Acquired before 1824

Ptah-Sokar-Osiris- Statuette
Ptolemaic period, around 3rd-2nd century BC
Wood; Stucco, painted Old inventory

Ptah-Sokar-Osiris statuette
Ptolemaic to Roman period, c. 2nd – 1stC BC
Wood; stucco, painted

Lid of the sarcophagus of Chedeb-neith-iret-binet. Late Period, 25h Dynasty, ca. 600 BC

Coffins from the 2nd cachette in Deir el-Bahari
In 1891 the Egyptian antiquities administration undertook excavations at the Temple of Hathepsut in Deir el-Bahari. On the edge of the temple precinct, a shaft was discovered which turned out to contain a great many burials (known as cachette – complete with coffins, mummies, and funerary equipment), which had been hidden from tomb robbers in antiquity. A few years earlier a cachette of royal burials had also come to light at Thebes. The 2nd cachette included 153 burials of priests. Because the finds were so numerous, the Egyptian government made gifts of them to museums worldwide.
Along with some other items, the coffin ensembles of Nes-pauti-taui and Ta-baket-nit-chensu each comprising inner and outer coffins with mummy boards – came to the Kunsthistorisches in Vienna.

Interesting… so I’d been walking through the Egyptian galleries thinking ‘they gotta give this shit back’ and Egypt has (had?) so much of it they were deliberately sending it away?!

Inner coffin of Ta-baket-nit-chensu
3rd Intermediate Period, 21st Dynasty, 1000-931 BC.

Western Thebes, Deir el-Bahari, 2nd cachette.
Wood; cartonage, painted; varnish 1893, gift of the Egyptian government.

The inner coffin of the priestess Ta-baktet-nit-chensu is of the set that also included an outer coffin (1). The Goddess of the West is depicted inside, on the floor of the basin.

The yellowish-orange colour of the background for the figures is characteristic of coffins during this period. Also typical is the varnish that dims the colours.

Vienna – Kaiserliche Schatzkammer

The Kaiserliche Schatzkammer or the Imperial Treasury of Vienna! Where we are hoping to see all the things that we have seen copies of so far! lol For people into medieval embroidery or early medieval gold work, this place really is a treasure trove. I was super excited to be here, before we even entered the building.

Tabard of the Herald of the Princely County of Tyrol -Johann Fritz (embroider)
Vienna, 1838, Silver lamé, velvet, gold, silver and silk embroidery, silver fringing braid.

From the Left: 1) Staff of the Grand Controllers – Southern German, 1600-1610. 2) Staff of the Grand Steward of the County of Gorlzia – Southern German, c.1660. 3) Staff of the Hungarian Grand Equerry – Vienna, 1700-1725. 4) Staff of the Grand Comptroller – Vienna, 1835. 5) Cane of the Grand Equerry – Vienna, 1790-1800. 6) Staff of a Master of Ceremonies – Vienna, 1800-1850. 7) Staff of a Junior Master of the Table – Vienna, 1800-1810. Staff of the Grand Master of the Table – Vienna, 1835. 8) Staff of a Master of Ceremonies – Vienna, 1800-1835. 9) Staff of a Grand Master of Ceremonies – Vienna, 1850-1900…. Wood or cane, bronze, gilded, and silver mounts.

The Hereditary Banner of Austria. Austria, c.1705.
Silk, damask, embroidered with metal and silk threads.

Keys of the Imperial Chamberlain, from 1711 to 1918.
As a sign of their privileged status chamberlains at the Habsburg court wore a key that symbolized their access to the ruler’s chambers. The office of chamberlain was reserved to members of the high nobility. The holders of this office belonged to the “first society” and were part of the emperor’s retinue at official ceremonies. The falconer’s gear as well as the tabards and staffs on view here are similarly the insignia of various officials or families in the hereditary lands and indicate their rank and status.

Dog Collar, Insignia of the Grand Master of the Hunt, Vienna, 1838.
Velvet, leather gold embroidery. Mounts silver mounted.

Austrian Archducal Coronet of Joseph II, c.1764. Silver glided, diamonds, semi-precious stones removed.
As early as the reign of Duke Rudolf IV (1339-65) the Habsburgs pursued the goal of being raised to the dignity of archduke. Their claim was finally recognized in 1453, and the archducal coronet, an insignia resembling a crown became the official symbol of Habsburg rule in the hereditary lands. Such an insignia was created for Archduke Joseph in 1764 based on medieval models.
The coronet’s gold foil frame, or “carcass”, is exhibited in this room. The jewels were soon removed from the coronet to be used for other purposes.

Insignia for the Hereditary Grand Master Falconer, Vienna, 1835. Leather, velvet, gold braid, gold embroidery and feathers. Falconers pouch and two falcon’s hoods.

Tabard for the Herald of the Roman King, Vienna, 1600-1650; gold lamé, satin, gold embroidery, finger border, glass beading.

Tabard for the Herald of the Roman Emperor, Vienna, 1613 and 1719.
Gold lamé, silk and glass.

Tabard for the Herald of Emperor Francis I Stephen, Vienna, 1775-1750.
Velvet, satin, gold and silver lamé, gold silver and silk embroidery, gold and fringe border.

Tabard for the Herald of the King of Bohemia, Vienna, 1600-1700.
Velvet, gold and silver embroidery, fringing braid, glass beading.

Tabard for the Herald of the King of Hungary, Vienna, 1600-1700.
Silver lamé, gold, silver and silk embroidery, fringing braid.

Crown of Emperor Rudolf II, later crown of the Austrian Empire
Jan Vermeyen goldsmith, Prague, 1602.
Gold, enamel, diamonds, rubies, spinels, sapphires, pearls, velvet

Imperial orb for the crown Rudolf II.
Andreas Osenbruck goldsmith, Prague, 1612-1615.
Gold, enamel, diamonds, rubies, sapphire, pearls.

Sceptre for Emperor Matthias for the crown of Rudolf II.
Andreas Osenbruck Goldsmith, Prague, 1615.
Ainkhürn (narwhal tooth), gold, enamel, diamonds, rubies, sapphire, pearls.

Ceremonial robes of a Knight of the Hungarian Order of St Stephen, Vienna, c.1764.
Velvet, fake ermine, gold and silver embroidery, gimped embroidery in gold.

Robes of a Knight of the Austrian Order of Leopold, Joseph Fisher (1769-1822), Vienna, c.1808.
Gros de tours, fake ermine, gold embroidery, metal foil, ostrich feather, silk

Mantle of the Austrian Emperor, designed by Philipp von Stubenraüch (1784-1848), Vienna, c.1830.
Velvet, gimped embroidery in gold, Paulette’s, gold braid, ermine and silk.

Robes of a Knight of the Austrian Order of the Cross, designer Philipp von Stubenraüch (1784-1948), Vienna 1815/16. Velvet, silver embroidery, leather silver embroidery.

Conronation vestments of the Kingdom of Lombardy and Venetia,
Designer Philipp von Stubenraüch (1784-1848), Vienna, 1838.
Velvet, gimped embroidery, gold, ermine, moiré, gold and silver embroidery.

The Robes worn by King of Bohemia as Elector, Vienna or Prague, c. 1625-1650…
Mantle, gloves and matching ermine hat.

Jewellery Box of Empress Marie Louise, Paris, 1870, silver gilded velvet.
Martin Guillaume Biennais (1764-1843) and Augustin Dupré (1748-1833).

Marie Louse, Empress of the French (1791-1847).
Francois Pascal Simon Gerard, Paris, 1812, oil on canvas.

Cradle of the King of Rome, Paris, 1811. Silver gilded, gold, mother of pearl, velvet, silk, tuile, gold and silk embroidery. Designers and craftsmen: Pierre-Paul Prud’hon (1758-1823), Henri-Victor Roget (1758-1830), Jean-Baprise-Claude Odiot (1733-1850), Pierre-Philippe Thomire (1751-1843).

Ewer and Basin used for Imperial Baptisms, Spanish Master, 1571, gold and partly enamelled.

Diamond Sabre, Turkish, 1650-1700, Vienna, c.1712.
Damascened steel, gold, silver, partly gilded, diamonds, wood, leather.

Two Chains of the Order of the Golden Fleece, court jeweller A.E. Kochert, Vienna, c.1873.
Gold, partly enamelled, diamonds, rubies.

Two Bouquets of Flowers, Florence, c.1680-1700. Gold, partly enamelled, silver gilded, precious stones.

LEFT: Hair Amethyst, Spain, c.1665-1700. Amethyst, gold and emeralds.
RIGHT: Fire Opal, Origin Hungarian, c.1650. Opal, gold and enamelled.

Hyacinth, “La Bella”, Vienna, c.1687. Garnet, gold, silver gilded, enamelled.

Egg Cup form the estate of King Louis XVI of France (1754-1793), Paris, c.1774/80. Silver gilded.

Family Tree showing Kings and Emperors from the House of Habsburg. Gold and chalcedonies.
Tree: Vienna, 1725-30. Intaglios: Christoph Dorsch (1675-1732), Nuremberg, 1725/30/

Cameo showing the Portrait fo Emperor Franz I – Giovanni Beltrami (1777-1854).
Made before 1840. Onyx, and enamelled gold.

Set of Jewels from the estate of Archduchess Sophie (1805-1872), Paris, 1809/19.
Gold, silver, diamonds, emeralds, topazes.

Emerald Unguentarium, Dionysius Miseroni, Prague, c.1641. Emerald 2860 carat, enamelled gold.
‘As early as the 17th century the 2,680-carat emerald vessel was regarded as one of the most famous objects in the Imperial Treasury. The tremendous value of this unique showpiece, whose lid was cut out of the jewel’s interior, is illustrated by the story that Genoese jewellers declined to value it as security for a loan which Emperor Ferdinand III (1608-57) sought, avowing that they were not accustomed to dealing with such large pieces.’
Sadly the light in here is so bad, that I had to pluck an image off the internet.

Crown of Stefan Bocskay, Turkish, c.1605. Gold, precious stones, pearls and silk.

Case for the Crown of Stefan Bocskay, Turkish, c.1605. Fabric: Persian, c.1600, wood and silk.

Hungarian Opal Jewellery Set, Egger Bros, Budapest, c.1881.
Gold, enamelled, Hungarian opals, diamonds, rubies.

The “Two Considerable Treasures” – Emperor Ferdinand I (1503-64) bequeathed to his successor, Emperor Maximilian II, two treasures of special importance: an enormous agate bowl (about 50cm across), and the “Ainkhürn” or unicorn horn. It was laid down that these two pieces would forever remain in the possession of the eldest male member of the family in perpetuity as ‘inalienable heirlooms’ and could not be sold or given as gifts.

Agate Bowl, Constantinople, 300-400AD. Carved from a single piece of agate.

“Ainkhürn”or Unicorn Horn.
Ferdinand I received the “Ainkhürn” as a gift from King Sigismund II of Poland in 1540. During this age the mythical unicorn was thought to be an actual animal, which might only be captured in a virgin’s lap. The unicorn was thus regarded as an allegory of Christ, and its horn a symbol of divine power, from which secular dominion was derived. The horn, which was also thought to be an antidote to poison, was traded in Europe at tremendous prices. Only in the 17th century was it recognized that what had been believed to be unicorn’s horn was in fact the twisting tusk of the narwhal (Monodon monoceros).

I WANT ONE!

Amber Altar, Northern Germany, c.1640/45. Amber, partly painted, metal foil, wax, wood.


The Adoration of the Shepherds, Central Italy, Florence?, Early 17thC.
Oil on alabaster, wood, copper, silver.

The Bag of King Stephen of Hungary, Russia, c. 1080-1120.
Gold and silk embroidery on silk, smokey quartz.

Ivory Reliquary Box, Sicily, 12thC. Ivory on wooden core, brass fittings.

Christophorus Relief, Upper Rhine, c.1475-1500, cast copper, gold-plated, glass stones.

Chalice from the Propety of Emperor Maximilian of Mexico.
Circle of the Rondino Di Guerrino, Sienna, c.1375. Silver, gold plated copper, pit enamelled.

Late Gothic Chalice, Hungary, c.1500. Gold plated silver, gemstones.

Chalice with the Motto of Emperor Friedrich II, Southern Germany likely Nuremberg, 1438.
Gold plated silver.

Holy Blood Monstance, Transylvania, c.1475 contains older spoils.
Gold plated silver, rock crystal, precious stones, semi-precious stones, pearls.

Relicquay Oast Tensorium – Matthias Waltbaum (1554-1632), Augsburg, c.1600.
ebony, silver, partially gold plated.

Reliquary Casket, Venice late 1500s. Wood, sardonyx, lapis lazuli.

Emperor Ferdinand’s Prayer Book, Augsburg, 1590. Approx 5cm tall.
Gold, enamelled, parchment.

Devotional Book of Empress Claudia Felitcitas, Constance, Augsburg, c.1674. Silver and paper

Madonna with the Child and the Boy John – Adam Lenckhardt (1610-1661).
Wurzburg, c.1630. Ivory.

The Flagging of Christ, Rome, c.1635-40. Gold-plated bronze, lapis lazuli, ebony.
Christ: Alessandro Algardi (1598-1654).
Henchmen: Francois Duquesnoy (1597-1643)

Three Kings Reliquary, Paulus Baumann (1567-1634), Augsburg, 1630-35. Silver, gold plated, lapis lazuli.

The Carrying of the Cross – Johann Caspar Schenck (1630-1674), Vienna, c.1664-65. Ivory.

Chalice with Coat of Arms of Emperor Charles VI – Ludwig Schneider (1640-1729), Augsburg, c. 1710/15.
Silver gilded, enamel painting, glass

Christ as Judge of the World
Johann Baptist Känischbauer von Hohenried (1668-1739), Vienna, 1726.
Gold, partially enamelled, rock crystal.

Gloves, Palmero, before 1220.
Samite (silk), gold embroidery, enamel, niello plaques, pearls, precious stones.

Shoes, Sandalia – German, 1600-1625, Palermo, 1100-1300.
Silk, pearls, precious stones, tablet weave, lampas braid.

Blue Tunicella (Dalmatia), Palermo, Royal Court Workshop, 1125-1150.
Silk, gold embroidery, small gold tubes, gold with cloisonné enamel, pearls, tablet weave.

The semi-circular Coronation Mantle of red silk was produced in Palermo in the 12th and early 13th centuries; with its depiction of a lion subduing a camel, the long, richly embroidered outer garments-blue tunicella and white alba-as well as shoes, stockings and gloves together with the belt reflect, (in part based on their inscriptions in part on other evidence), a connection with the Norman kings of Sicily. The overall design and elements of the decoration are derived from the court attire of Byzantine emperors. The older textiles probably came to the Empire through the Hohenstaufen emperor Henry VI. He married the Norman princess Constance in 1186 and became king of Sicily in 1194. In the empire they were apparently thought to be priestly vestments, used for coronations and complemented by additional textiles.

Coronation Mantle, Palermo, Royal Court Workshop, 1133/34.
Samite silk, gold and silk embroidery, pearls, enamel, filigree, precious stones, tablet weave.

OMG… finally a chance to see this! I’ve been looking at pictures of these objects in books for nearly three decades. I can’t believe I get to see them in person.

The Eagle Dalmatic, South German, c.1330/40.
Red silk twill damask, embroidery in silk, gold, small axinites.

The Stola (below) imitates a ‘loros’ an older type of textile of Byzantine or Norman origin. The six metre-long sash of yellow silk was decorated with black imperial eagles in medallions, only one of which has been preserved. Differently than the original manner of wearing the “loros”, in the medieval Holy Roman Empire the long sash was worn as a priest’s stola, that is forming a cross across the breast. This can be seen in Albrecht Dürer’s famous portrayal of Charlemagne (Room 11). The purple Dalmatic is embroidered with eagles and crowned heads. In this way the wearer of the garment is associated both with the heraldic beast of the Holy Roman Empire and his predecessors as king.

Alba, Palermo, Royal Court Workshop, c.1181 with later additions.
Taffeta silk, Samite silk, fold wire embroidery, pearls, precious stones and tablet weave.

Stole, Italy, before 1328. Louise silk, gold threads, pearls, silver gilded appliqués with graduation, champlevé enamel and glass stones.

Imperial Cross, Western German, c.1030. Body: oak, precious stones, pearls, niello.
Base: Prague, later additions c.1352, silver gilded enamel.

The Burse of St. Stephen, Carolingian, 800-833. Wooden body, gold, precious, stones, pearls.

Imperial Crown, Western German, c.960-980. Cross: 1020. Arch: 1024-1039.
Gold, cloisonné enamel, precious stones, pearls.

Idealised portrait of Emporer Charlemagne (742-812).
Copy after Albrecht Dürer (1471-1528), German c.1600. Oil on canvas.

Idealised portrai of Emperor Sigmund (1361-1437).
Copy after Albrecht Dürer (1471-1528), German, c.1600. Oil on canvas.

Vestments worn by Emperor Francis Stephen I of Lorraine (Baroque copies of the Coronation Vestments of the Holy Roman Empire). Vienna 1763/64.

Stole, Vienna 1763/64. Gold lamé, silk embroidery, gold, partly enamelled.

Gloves, Vienna 1763/64. Atlas silk, gold embroidery, gold enamel, precious stones.

Dalmatic, Vienna 1763/64. Altas silk, gold, partly enamelled.

Mantle, Vienna 1763/64. Atlas silk, gold and silk embroidery, gold braid, enamel, precious stones.

Alba, Vienna 1763/64. Atlas silk, gol, silver and silk embroidery, precious stones.

Room full of extant herald’s tabards! Mostly 1700s, but just gorgeous.

Herald for the King-At-Arms and Herald of the Archduchy of Brabant, Brussels, c.1717.
Embroiderer: Louis Almé. Velvet, gold lamé, appliqué, gold embroidery and fringing braid.

Herald’s Tabard for the King-At-Arms and Herald of the Duchy of Burgundy, Brussels, c.1600-1700.
Velvet, silver lamê, fringing braid.

Tabard for a Herald of Maria Theresia (First King at Arms), Brussels, c.1742.
Embroiderer: Eldens. Velvet, gold and silver lamé, appliqué, gold, silver and silk embroidery, gold braid.

Tabard for the First King-At-Arms of Archduke Albrecht, Sovereign of the Netherlands.
Brussels, c.1599-1621. Velvet, gold and silver lamé, appliqué, gold silver and silk embroidery, fringing braid.

Emperor Maximilian I (1459-1519) – Bernhard Strigel (1460-1519), German, c.1500. Oil on Limewood.


Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy hoped to succeed Emperor Frederick Ill on the throne of the Holy Roman Empire. To achieve his aim, he assented to the marriage of his only daughter Mary to Archduke Maximilian, the emperor’s son and heir. The wedding, however, only took place after the duke’s death in 1477. Mary and Maximilian’s son Philip was born on 19 April 1478, ensuring the “Burgundian heritage” would ultimately remain with the House of Habsburg.

Mary, Duchess of Burgundy (1457-1482) – Francesco Terzio, Southern Germany, c. 1600 terracotta.

Tapestry Showing the arms of Emperor Charles V – weaver: Willem de Pannemaker, Brussels, c.1540.
Wool, silk, gold and silver thread.

Tabard for the Stattholder First King-at-Arms, called Towson d’Or (Golden Fleece), Brussels c.1580.
Velvet, gold and silver lamé, gold, silver and silk embroidery.

Order of the Golden Fleece Knight’s Chain, Burgundian-Netherlands, c.1435-1465. Gold and enamel.

Potence Chain of Arms of the Herald of the Order of the Golden Fleece, Netherlandish, c.1517.
Gold and enamel.

This is one of the most beautiful heraldic objects I’ve never seen. I’ve admired it for years… never thought I’d be able o see it.

I am completely unapologetic for the amount photographs that I took and have added here!

Just when you think the Schatzkammer has delivered up all it’s treasures – the next room contains only some of *the* most famous embroidered objects ever created. I like did a double take when walking in… it was like the first time I saw the Cluny Tapestries all over again. They are so amazing and so beautifully preserved! Just fucking spectacular!

Liturgical Vestments of the Order of the Golden Fleece.
Cope of the Virgin, Burgundian, c.1425-1440.
Embroidery on linen, metal and silk threads, pearls, pastes (glass), velvet.
Hood depicting the virgin.

Liturgical Vestments of the Order of the Golden Fleece.
Dalmatic, Burgundian, c.1425-1440.
Embroidery on linen, metal and silk threads, pearls and velvet.

Liturgical Vestments of the Order of the Golden Fleece.
Cope of Christ (Pluvial), Burgundian, c.1425-1440.
Embroidery on linen, metal and silk threads, pearls, pastes (glass), velvet.
Hood depicting the Almighty.

Liturgical Vestments of the Order of the Golden Fleece.
Casula, Burgundian, c.1425-1440.
Embroidery on linen, metal and silk threads, pearls, pastes (glass), velvet.

Liturgical Vestments of the Order of the Golden Fleece.
Cope of John the Baptist, Burgundian, c.1425-1440.
Embroidery on linen, metal and silk threads, pearls, pastes (glass), velvet.
Hood depicting John the Baptist.

Liturgical Vestments of the Order of the Golden Fleece.
ABOVE: Antependium (rear panel), Burgundian, c.1425-1440; the Trinity, prophets and apostles.
BELOW: Antependium (front panel), Burgundian, c.1425-1440; Mythical marriage of St Catherine
Embroidery on linen, metal and silk threads, pearls, pastes (glass).

Phew! Man, I haven’t been a smoker since May 17th 1997… but damn, after that I need a cigarette and a good lie down. Back out in the Real World, I had to make do with some bratwurst and a Coke Zero!
What an amazing visit! I think this has now officially out paced the Museé de Moyen Age as my favourite museum.

Hanover and Landesmusuem

Literally around the corner from our hotel was Hanover’s famous art museum, the Landesmuseum. Naturally, we knew we could spend a few hours there checking out numerous artworks, the likes of which would get an entire wing dedicated to them should even one of these pieces be in a museum back home!

St Peter,
Evert van Roden (attributed)
Münster, c 1460


Madonna Enthroned
Lower Saxony, c. 1180 Linden wood, originally painted.

Death of Mary, Lower Saxony, c.1300/1310, Oak
The altarpiece from the former Augustinian convent in Wennigsen has only a few surviving panel paintings from the early 14thC. The apostles and a bishop have gathered at Mary’s deathbed. In the middle appears Christ, who has descended from heaven to collect Mary’s soul in the form of a small, white-clad figure.

Ten Commandments panel. Master of the Göttingen Jacobi Church Altar, c.1400. Oak.
The wings of this work, were originally mounted on both sides of the central panel, have been lost. Therefore, only six of the ten commandments can be seen. They are recited by God, who appears in a rainbow, and illustrated using stories from the Old Testament.

Christ with the Wise and Foolish Virgins, Lower Saxony, c. 1310-1320, Oak.
The heavenly judge turns to five expectant women with burning lamps. The ladies on the other side, however, are denied the kingdom of heaven. They had managed their finances poorly, and the oil in their lamps had run out before the longed-for bridegroom appeared in the night. The panel admonished the women in the Isenhagen monastery to live a life pleasing to God in preparation for the Last Judgement.😮

Childhood and Passion of Christ, Lower Saxony or Westphalia, c,1390, oak.
The two panels acquired from the Aegidienkirche in Hanover Münden once formed the wings of an altarpiece, the middle of which has been lost. When opened, the work was almost eight meters wide. The scenes from the life of Jesus are separated from one another by an artfully painted decorative architecture. A differentiated color scheme and a special interest in costume details characterize the painting.

Panel 2


Annunciation to Mary and Coronation of Mary, Masster Bertram Minden, c.1340-1414/14, Hamburg, oak.
The panels formed the outside of the altar on the left. The Annunciation to Mary and her coronation in heaven highlight the importance of the Mother of God in the salvation process. The robes, halos, crowns and angel wings once shimmered in gold and silver, the lions identify Mary as the Queen of Heaven.

Passion Altar, Master Bertram Minden, c. 1340 – 1414/15 Hamburg, Oak.
It is rare to be able to link the painters mentioned in the written reports with surviving works. In northern Germany, Master Bertram is the exception: he came from Westphalia, was familiar with the art of the imperial court in Prague and with the latest painting in the Netherlands, and ran a successful workshop in Hamburg. The altarpiece was probably created in his studio.
Inv.

The Gottingen Barfusseraltar, Gottingen, c.1424, oak and spruce.
St Francis of Assisi’s followers were committed to poverty, as itinerant preachers in towns and cities, they walked barefoot or clad in simple sandals, for that reason they were also know as ‘barefoot friars’ (German: Barfuss).

The Golden Panel
Lüneburg, c. 1420-1430, Oak

The ‘back’ or outside of the Golden Panel… simply stunning.

Arm reliquaries of Saints Valerius and Pancras, Lower Saxony, c. 1150/1175, Lime wood.

Reliquary bust: 1 of the 11,000 virgins Depicted as St Ursula, Lower Saxony (Lüneburg?), c.1300, oak.

Two reliquary busts of the 11,000 virgins, Lower Saxony (Lüneburg?), c.1432, lime wood, silver-plated.

Reliquary box, Lüneburg, 15th, Wood, silver-plated and gold-plated.

Reliquary box, Lüneburg, 15th, Wood, silver-plated and gold-plated.

Reliquary in the form of a book/ ivory tablet from the Romanos group
Lower Saxony, 14th/15th century / Constantinople, around 950, wood, linen fabric, parchment / ivory

Cross base with the resurrected Adam, West Germany, 11th/12th century Bronze, remains of gilding

Two ivory boxes, Sicily or southern Italy, 12th/14th century.

Cain and Abel chest, Lower Saxony, Westphalia, 11th century… c. 1230, oak core,

Enamelled reliquary box, Lower Saxony, Rhineland, Maas region, 12th-13th century, wood, copper, pit enamel, brown varnish

Abraham casket, West Germany, Lower Saxony, c.1025-1050, oak, copper-gilt fittings.

Two bowls for washing hands, Limoges, late 12thC, copper, enamelled, gold-plated
The magnificent bowls bear the coat of arms of the French ruling dynasty of the Plantagenêt. They were originally used for washing hands during courtly table ceremonies. They probably came to Lüneburg via Richard the Lionheart. HOLY SHIT!!!

Leather box, Lower Saxony, around 1300 wood, leather-covered, stamped and then painted.

Portable Triptych Relics, German, c.1432, wood, painted, horn discs.
According to the inscription and coat of arms, the triptych belongs to the foundation of Duke Bernhard I of Brunswick-Lüneburg. A large number of relics are kept behind transparent horn discs, for example pieces of the the Holy Cross, from James the Elder and from the Holy Sepulchre.

Octagonal container,
Italy, 14th C
Leather, parchment, pastiglia

The container covered with colored parchment strips is an extremely rare and beautiful piece. Before it was converted into a reliquary, it may have served as a cover for a drinking cup.

Lambert Altar, Master of the so-called Hildesheim, 12 panels of a Passion Altarpiece, c.1420/30, Oak

Diptych, Lower Saxony (Hildesheim), c.1420, Lime wood

The Tree of Life, c.1400, Master of the Richardson Triptych active in Sama (1370-1418), poplar wood.

Crucifixion Altar c.1506, Hans Raphon (1460-1512), Göttingen or Northeim, lime wood.

Mercy Altar, c,1510/1520, Tilman Riemenschneider (and workshop operating 1460-1531), Heiligenstadt/Eichsfeld, Würzburg, Lime wood.

Family altar, Lower Saxony, c. 1500/1510, Lime wood (?)
St. Anne, Mary’s mother, was particularly popular in the late Middle Ages. A chapel was dedicated to her in the Hanover Kreuzkirche, for which the winged altar was created. Her daughters, grandchildren, husbands and sons-in-law have gathered around the saint. On the wings there are various scenes from her life on the left, and the birth of Mary on the right.

Mother of God Altar c.1510 to 1515,, Hans Raphon, Göttingen or Northeim c,1460-1512 and Bartold Kastrop, Northeim c.1465-1531/1532 Göttingen, oak wood.
The Madonna is based on a copperplate engraving by Albrecht Dürer. His works of art printed on paper quickly spread and were often used as templates by other artists. The altarpiece was created for the Einbeck collegiate church of St. Alexandri,

Rosary altar, c. 1500, South Lower Saxony (Einbeck), oak.
The center of this winged altar is occupied by the Mother of God accompanied by angels.
Mary stands on a crescent moon and is surrounded by a halo of rays; the crown also identifies her as the Queen of Heaven. (I love the facial expression on the guy in the bottom right image)

Christ and Mary on Golgotha, c.1505, Hans Holbein the Elder, Augsburg, (1465- 1524), lime wood.
The thorn-crowned Christ sits on the cross and is mourned by Mary. A moment of pause is captured on Mount Golgotha, which Holbein characterizes as a hilly landscape and makes recognizable by skulls and bones.

John the Ev. and Jacob the Elder, c. 1510, oak
The two saints are deceptively realistic painted sculptures set in a stone architecture made of reddish marble. Such painted sculptures were particularly popular in the Netherlands. They were usually found on the outside of the winged altars, which then unfolded their full splendor of color when opened.

Portrait of a Man, Jakob Elsner, c.1507.
Nuremberg 1460/1465-1517 Nuremberg, Parchment or paper on oak.

Portrait of the Astronmer Johann Schöner, c.1528, Master of the Neudörfer Portraits active in Nuremberg around 1500-1530, Linden wood.

Female Saint, c.1510, Tilman Riemenschneider, Heiligenstadt/Eichsfeld, active 1460-1531, Würzburg,
Limewood, painted in color – the figure is carved from limewood, a material that can be worked in many different ways. The garments form a delicate relief. The carver has masterfully crafted the turban-like headdress, the veil and the wavy hair. Originally a standing figure an early collector sawed off the bottom of the work and converted it into a bust.

John the Baptist and Mary Magdalene, c. 1515, Hans Suess von Kulmbach (1470 – 1522),
Nuremberg, lime wood

The Saints Sebastian and Rochus, c.1518, Hans Suess von Kulmbach, (1470-1522),
Nuremberg, linden wood.

Venus with Cupid, c. 1515-1520, Lucas Cranach the Elder
Kronach 1472-1553 Weimar, transferred to plywood
The painting corresponds entirely to the Renaissance’s renewed interest in the female nude.
Venus appears life-sized. Her skin color and posture are reminiscent of ancient sculptures.

Lucrezia, c.1525, Lucas Cranach the Elder, Kronach 1472-1553 Weimar. Beechwood.

Martin Luther and Katharine von Bora, c.1528, Lucas Cranach the Elder (1472-1553) Weimar, beechwood
In 1525, the former Augustinian monk, Martin Luther married the nun, Katharina von Bora. By marrying, both broke their church vow of celibacy. The portraits became so popular at the time that numerous replicas were soon created.

The martyrdom of the seven sons of Felicitas c. 1530/1535, Lucas Cranach the Elder (1472-1553), Weimar, Oak wood.

Salvator Mundi panel, c.1537, Hans Kemmer (1495- 1561) Lübeck, oak wood.
The woman’s jewelry helps to identify the couple praying to the Savior: it is quite likely that her shoulder amulet shows the heraldic animal of the Lübeck merchant Carsten Timmermann. The couple probably commissioned the painting in memory of a deceased child. It was executed by Cranach’s student Hans Kemmer, who was the leading painter in Lübeck since the Reformation.
Inv.

Portraits of a Donor Couple, c.1520, Bartholomäus Bruyn the Elder (1493-1544), Cologne, oak.

Lucrezia, c.1510, Sodoma (actually Giovanni Antonio Bazzi) Vercelli, 1477- 1549 Siena, poplar wood.

Portrait bust of Grand Ducke Fernando I de Medici, c.158790,
Pietro Francavilla Cambrai (1548 – 1615), Paris, marble.
In antique idealization, the portrait bust shows the third ruler of the younger Medici line, Ferdinando I (1549-1609). Under his leadership, the House of Medici achieved its greatest power and significant influence throughout Europe.

Annunciation to Mary, c.1500/15150, Sandro Botticelli (workshop), Florence 1445 – 1510 Florence, poplar wood. Once developed, compositions were used more frequently in Sandro Botticelli’s studio. The Annunciation angel resembles a painting in the Uffizi in Florence, and the Virgin Mary resembles a painting now kept in London. The work was created for the private devotion of the woman kneeling in front; the black robe and white bonnet identify her as a widow.

St Peter in a wreath of fruit, c.1470-80. Pietro Perugino, (1448-1524), Fontignano, poplar

Adoration of the Child with the Infant Saint John, c.1490.
Sandro Botticelli (workshop), Florence 1445 – 1510, poplar wood.

Portrait of Francesco Alunno, c.1510.
Lorenzo di Credi, Florence 1459-1537 Florence, poplar wood.
The art writer Giorgio Vasari (1511-1574) praised Lorenzo di Credi’s painting style highly: It shows a finesse that surpasses any other painting. This alludes to the smooth texture of the oil painting, which also characterizes the charming portrait of the young scholar. An inscription identifies the person depicted as the lexicographer Francesco Alunno from Ferrara.

The Arrival of Aeneas at Dido’s c. 1460
Apollonio di Giovanni, Florence 1415/1417-1465, poplar wood.
In the 15th century, a bride was led to her new home in a wedding procession. Chests were carried along and used as furniture. The love story of Dido and Aeneas is shown on the chest front. Above, Aeneas arrives in Carthage; on the right, Dido welcomes him in the hall of a temple.

The Banquet and the hunt of Dido, c. 1460
The second chest front shows further events from the Aeneid by the ancient poet Virgil (70-90 BC). On the left, a banquet is being prepared for Aeneas, on the right, the company goes hunting. There, Dido and Aeneas are surprised by a thunderstorm. They flee into a cave, the scene of their night of love.

I can’t believe that I got all the way through adding these photos in, and translating descriptions and adding those in too – and totally forgot the one thing I made a mental note about while I was in the musuem! There are sensors EVERYWHERE in these galleries – and when you step too close to the artworks, a recording comes on, (with music) saying, (in English) quite loud, “STOP IN THE NAME OF ART! Before you break some art!” Kinda to the tune of the song, “Stop in the Name of Love!”, which was equal parts initially alarming, then amusing and eventually annoying. Wouldn’t have been so bad if you only heard it once or twice, but it was going off constantly – and you know why? Because the information plaques are so close to each of the artworks, and some as much as 30cm BEHIND artworks that stood proud of walls, meaning every time some old biddy leaned into to read the descriptions, or some finickity history nerd like me leaned in to take a photo of the descriptions, the damn sensors were triggered and the hideous recording went off. Again and again. It must have been set off over 50 times for the couple of hours we were in there. Never seen such an obnoxious security system in a museum before (unless you count the overly stern and officious ‘Shushhh’ing Nuns of The Vatican Museum’ – those women are seriously obnoxious but unsurprisingly, very efficient!

Aaaanyway… after checking out the medieval galleries of the Landesmuseum, we decided to take a wander through the Maschpark, Historical Garden. Gotta say, Hanover has loads of beautiful green spaces and feels like a very liveable city.

In this prettyish kind of wilderness is an enormous lake full of ducks and probably e-scooters!

the Neues Rathaus – or New Town Hall.

Started to rain, so we decided to bail and leave the very goose looking ducks to their weather.