Frankfurt and out!

We had deliberately stayed in Nordlingden last night so we could have a last night in a quaint little medieval town rather that a large city. I’m sure Frankfurt has plenty to explore and see, but the odds we’ll be back here are probably higher than in the tiny medieval village we got to stroll around last night. The drive to Frankfurt wasn’t particularly long, though it was punctuated by plenty of roadworks and quite a lot of heavy traffic – being a Sunday afternoon there seemed to be plenty of locals returning from the lakes areas to the city after a weekend of ‘wandern, schwimmen und grillen am see’. Still the weather was bright and clear and there are worse places to be spending a few hours on the road than a German autobahn.

Frankfurt is a fairly large central German city on the Maim river (often called Frankfurt am Maim) and is quite the major financial hub. While the alstadt is known to be quite beautiful, it is also known to be quite touristy as there are not a huge amount of major tourist attractions in Frankfurt, and most visitors are here for work purposes. Frankfurt was a city state once upon a time and known as the Free City of Frankfurt for nearly five centuries. It was one of the most well known and important cities in the Holy Roman Empire – it was the location of the empire’s Imperial coronations for all that time, but eventually lost its sovereignty when the empire collapsed in 1806. It briefly regained statehood in 1815 but lost it again when it was annexed by the Kingdom of Prussia. Since the end of WWII in 1945, Frankfurt has been part of the state of Hesse – the capital of Hesse in fact – in modern Germany.

Like many of the cities we have been visiting, Frankfurt was extensively bombed in WWII, and had some concentration camps satellite to the city that housed mostly young women in forced labour camps. About 6000 Frankfurt residents were killed and the famous medieval city centre, which ast the time was one of the largest city centres in Germany was almost completely destroyed. About 40% of all buildings in Frankfurt were reduced to rubble. At the end of the war in March 1945, the Allied forces advanced into Frankfurt to take the city in an extended urban combat over several days of intense fighting before the German military eventually retreated.

The Römerburg makerplace in the Alstadt… most of these timber houses are reconstructions of the medieval buildings that were here prior to WWII.

The Frankenfurter Dom or Frankfurt Cathedral (also known as the Imperial Dome of Saint Bartholomew) is one of those cathedrals that the city surrounding it has crept up to its doors and you can’t step back to get a good look at the facade. It is the largest place of worship in Frankfurt and is a Roman Catholic Church. The first church on this site dates from the 7thC and this structure was completed in 1550s and underwent significant reconstruction in the 1990s. In theory the city of Frankfurt secularised the church, but it is still largely at the disposal of the Catholic Church (no idea how that works exactly – I think it gets maintained by the city but is mostly utilised by the Catholic church and sometimes by Lutheran church as well?).

It’s built in the high gothic style of the 14th-15th centuries with gorgeous vaulted ceilings and stained glass. It has gone through numerous reconstructions, including a severe fire in the 1860s, and of course damage during the bombing raids of WWII. It’s renown for it’s distinctive red sandstone construction.

There appear to be a wide variety of interesting artworks scattered thought out the cathedral – heraldic achievements, altarpieces, fonts, frescoes, but scant little information available on any of it… in German or in English. Even googling up info on the artworks in the Frankfurt Cathedral now is revealing very little. I have a suspicion most of the pieces here are reproductions.

I don’t particularly enjoy walking through these historically important sites surrounded by what look like artistically important works and not being able to accurately identify any provenance for any given piece. It feels like you’re getting only half of an impression of what you are looking at…

Anyway, due to the lack of information and context, we were not in the Cathedral very long; before we knew it it was time to start out transit back to the airport and then it would be time for the long transit home.

Thankfully the transit home was way less eventful than on the way over!

Nördlingen

Gorgeous drive today from Innsbruck to Nördlingen. Passed some gorgeous scenery as we passed through Seefeld.

Seefeld vistas.

Driving through the little town of Krün.

Wallgau…

Kochel am See

Kochel am See – Walchensee.

Walchensee.

Kochel am See

Kochel am See

Kochel am See

Kochel

Nördlingen! Nördlingen is a small town in Bavaria that is entirely encircled by some extremely well preserved medieval walls – complete with covered walking parapets and towers! The city centre is based around the massive gothic St George’s cathedral. Its tower is called Daniel and from the top of it, you can see views of the entire town.

Located about 150kms northwest of Munich, it is built in a 15 million year old crater site! Currently home to some 20,000 residents, Nördlingen dates back to 898AD and was the location of two famous battles of the 30 Years War which happened between 1618 to 1648. Today it is one of the few Geraman towns (along with Berching, Dinkelsbühl and Rothenburg on der Tauber) that have their completely intact medieval city walls.

Walking around Nördlingen is like stepping back in time. The old timber construction medieval house, the cobblestone streets, the quaint shop all in the shadow of the town’s central gothic church.

The Rathaus.

A ‘Bayrish pub’..! Crossover Bavarian and Irish. Classic.

For our last night in Germany, we of course were seeking out the last of the jagerschnitzels. This one had a delicious rich mushroom sauce, but the schnitzel was enormous and everything here is served with fries or spetzle… so carbs on carbs with a carbs motif. So tasty, but way too rich to eat half of it!

Cute! Snail mascot… they need to up their game if they want to compete with Japan’s mascots, but super cute nonetheless.

I saw a very odd looking tree in the middle of the town square and for the life of me was wondering – what the hell is a grevillea tree doing in the middle of a tiny town in Germany! On closer inspection, we got an answer. How obscure?! Nördlingen and Wagga Wagga are sister cities? Who would have guessed. Wagga Wagga! lol

Lovely little town with a very cool vibe… I would love to spend a bit more time here.

Innsbruck; but not as you remember it.

Today we were driving from Villach to Innsbruck – and a gorgeous day for it as it turned out. The rolling countryside is just spectacular as we drove around the NationalPark Hohe Tauren region.

The route wandered through loads of small villages, the names of which were lost on us, but the idyllic Heidi-esque countryside was not.

Meanwhile, my phone was going nuts with people back home all absorbed with this particularly modern clusterfuck! I’m posting this here so I’ll remember it. We were moderately concerned that our Australian credit cards and things would just stop working – which would totally blow my Travel Theory that ‘there’s very little you can’t fix with an internet connection and a credit card!’

Our drive had us travelling through Italy for an hour or so… if you weren’t paying attention, you’d miss it.

We decided to stop and have lunch in San Candido.

Went to a cafe with the most amazing deli attached – the charcuterie here was unbelievable! Sadly, we have no refrigeration and only a couple of days until we head back to Australia.

Schnitzels here were served with cranberry of all things? But my gnocchi wagyu ragout was really good.

As we continued our drive the scenery was still just lovely. It’s amazing how a beautiful four hour scenic drive passes in a blink compared to four hours caught in a snarl of concrete highway spaghetti or crawling in stop-start traffic.

First sight of the Europabrücke (Europe bridge), the famous elevated highway that passes between Innsbruck to the Brenner Pass – it was built in the ‘60s and in some sections is as high as 180m (570 feet!), it’s seriously impressive. I was told it was more impressive to drive along side it rather than on it, so we were hoping for some good views.

Mühlbachl – another cute little, blink and you miss it, town.

Our destination for the evening – Hotel Restaurant Grünwalderhof. Innsbruck has become crazy expensive so we decided to stay a few minutes out of town given we were arriving late in the afternoon and would have tomorrow to explore. I was also looking for something a little more rural and alpine, which this appeared to be, but I didn’t realise (probably due to the deceptive views of rolling hills on their website) that they were smack bang right beside the road we had been travelling. Seriously, there was the road, and pull into a driveway straight off into the gravel car park for the hotel. Thankfully, there was scant little traffic on the road as the evening progressed and my fears of a noisy night were for naught.

Urgh… again, a request for a twin room is met with a double bed. Thankful for the European habit of separate bedding. Lovely hotel though, filled with old photos and vintage furniture… a little notice about the steps and lack of elevator would have been good, I am going to have to do something drastic about this dicky knee of mine. :/

The view from our balcony… beautiful.

Dinner was a bit sad… I will not be unhappy to leave the land of the deep fried everything for dinner… but a bottle of sparkling rose seemed a fitting end to our journey – even if I did have to choose something sweet enough for Angus to want to share it with me!

Thankfully, the warnings I received about the Crowdstrike nonsense amounted to a big fat nothing burger for us – and apparently this is largely why:
🤣🤣🤣

Next morning we had a little time to go for a wander through Innsbruck, which was a sad disappointment. I had wonderful memories of strolling through this little alpine village, all flowery window boxes, and quaint little cafes and cute winding little streets – but the whole place was being ripped up, was full of high vis, jackhammers, heavy equipment and men yelling. :/ Don’t go back, you can never go back.

We had a bit of a poke around, I bought myself a hat (having lost my cap somewhere along the way), and Angus picked up his one quality souvenir he wanted to take home – some seriously good kitchen shears. I know it’s a bit of an odd choice, but in 1995, I bought some Wusthof knives and some kitchen shears for about 40 Deutschmarks, and I have had 30 years of solid use out of these (far more useful than the Swiss Army knife that I also bought home from that trip). Angus has started his knife collection with Japanese kitchen knives, but he wanted some German made kitchen shears. We have done a bit of hunting in Berlin and in Munich looking for kitchenwares when we found some time, but he hadn’t found anything that wasn’t either cheap and nasty made in China or good quality, but totally overpriced… (thanks Amazon for messing with our expectations). Anyway, he found some really solid shears – I think they’re even better than mine! So our poking around noisy Innsbruck wasn’t a total waste of time.

This building is known as the Goldenes Dachl or Golden Roof, very creative naming protocol there. It is considered the most famous of Innsbruck landmarks. It was completed in 1500 and is decorate with over 2600 fire gilded copper tiles; created for Emperor Maximilian I on the occasion of his wedding to Bianca Maria Sforza (yes, those Sforzas), the two of them used to look down from their little golden balcony to watch the peasants at festivals, tournaments and whatever else was happening in the mucky square below.

Traditional garments for local festivals – would you believe this women’s dress was only €900 and gaudy AF. I didn’t manage to see a price on the shoes.

On the left, for him, little lederhosen that any little tyke will outgrow in months €140 and for her a little cotton romper at €90. I have friends at home with little ones, but wasn’t even remotely tempted!

Angus looking very Australian in Austria.

Which weirdly enough was a bit of a theme here in the gift shops!

I think I found my new calling though… I need to open a speckeria in Brisbane!

Unsurprisingly in a place that is called Innsbruck (Inns Bridge), there is a river running through it called the Inn River. Given it was high summer and the snow was all still melting, the river was high and running swiftly.

We have made some amazing memories this trip *and* no one got Covid, unlike our little Montenegro nightmare – aka, the Great Escape from Budva!

From here we were tootling today to Nordlingen… bit of a drive, but hopefully all good autobahns and with a bit of luck, well behaved drivers.

RAMMSTEIN in Klagenfurt!

In September 2023, I received an email saying that Rammstein were bring back their famous European stadium tour for what sounds like ‘one last time with feeling’! I had though that 2023 was going to be the wrap up of the tour – Till and some of the other band members had various creative solo plans all on the go, and to be honest, how much longer do guys pushing 60 want to be performing songs they wrote 30+ years ago. The 2023 tour ended up surrounded by a fair bit of controversy so perhaps they wanted to go out on a bang without any salacious scandal hanging over them – whatever the reason, as soon as I saw they were touring in 2024, I started machinating to figure out how to get not just Angus, but BigSal and SurLee there too!

It took about two days of research to decide which stadium would be our best option – nothing outdoor in a park setting, covered seating if possible, and preferably a smaller stadium than the 100,000+ seating at Lyon in 2022. After much googling and translating, I decided on Klagenfurt am Wörthersee. Well located, smallish stadium (all the same fire power, itty bitty space!).

Then the tickets were released and the German ticketing website was painful! It wouldn’t let me choose tickets in any particular section of the stadium and would only offer me 5 seats ‘best available’ and every time you went out and back in again it would give you 5 different seats in a different part of the arena. 🙁 Having seen a very similar show in 2022 from the corporate boxes on the west side of Lyon stadium, I was really keen to get a front on view, with enough elevation to be well over the top of any beer tents or raised sound booths etc. I kept coming back to the website until FINALLY it offered up some seats that matched the criteria … then the countdown was on!

Sadly Stephola was unable to come with us, so her ticket went to waste, but after some logistical dramas for our BigSal & SurLee, the four of us managed to rendezvous in Villach and make our way to Klagenfurt for the concert! To say I was excited to share this experience with these guys is a huge understatement.

Creating memories, people! That’s what travel is all about!

Perfect! Just right of centre, and not too obstructed by the central flammage tower. 😀

Four random Aussies in a huge crown of German and Austrians. 🙂

I think it was right after this pretzel that BigSal ‘friended’ a strange Nazi who was sitting right in front of us… his English was as broken as my German, but we had a short conversation where I managed to impart that we were from Australia, and he asked to ‘friend’ her on FB. Which they did – because why not? A few minutes later, she saw a selfie he had taken with her tagged on FB, and he had called her a ‘Comrade from Australia who was here to protest the ban on some super right-wing neo-Nazi magazine!’ Man, did that escalate quickly. Needless to say, mental notes to ‘unfriend and block’ him were made immediately!

The concert was amazing. The playlist was different enough from when I saw them a couple of years ago, but still with all the major highlights and their greatest hits. Additionally the smaller stadium call was a good one! Klagenfurt with it’s <50k people in it had far better sound quality and less distorted volume than the Lyon show, which was an awesome bonus… also, I was right about the flammage – all they high impact, burning-your-eyebrows pyrotechnics in a much smaller space was just so much more in your face!

We were having a much better time than the people behind us! 😛

Du Hast… with the flaming arrows.

Concert landscape photography!

No Rammstein gig is complete without the ol’ penis foam cannon. lol.

I’ve been thinking a lot recently about how many truly memorable days I have had in my life, and so many really great memories I have also feel heavily clouded in pain. But this concert? With these amazing people? Well, fuck not even the 152 steps I walked up and then back down to get here (thanks for counting Angus!) on a severely torn meniscus will dampen my memories of this! So much pain, but I’d do it again tomorrow!

Did I mention that we were in the Austrian alps but it was 32C that day? Thankfully as soon as the sun passed over it was much cooler – but the locals weren’t having it at all.

BEST. DAY. EVER! I will never forget this.
Big thank you to these guys, for joining in on one of my ridiculous flights of fancy.

^ This was our view as we waiting in line for a solid 30-40 minutes to get out of the car park. This and drunken locals staggering and yahooing, swaying and peeing on the side of the roads. lol. Didn’t care! Too hyped!

A few days later, I saw this from the Rammstein FB page… the smiley is where we were seated. <3

Sprichst du Deutsch?

Today the little DuoLingo app told me I’ve been spending way too much time on my phone trying to learn German, and then French, and then back to German again. It’s helpful, I can read a lot more than last time I spent any time in Germany, but it’s not as useful in the way that I had always hoped. I mean, I’ve been at this for years now and am nowhere near able to hold casual conversations when meeting new people.

I can manage targeted conversations: “Hello, I’d like to order the x, y, z, please.” or “I’d like two tickets please, one adult and one student.” or “Excuse me, is this seat free?” or even, “We need a car park, can you help me?” … but when it comes to chatting about the weather, what someone does for work, or even interacting with sales people to buy a new winter jacket in the right size, and ‘oh, is this on sale?’ Not so much.

And every time I try to start a conversation with someone in German, they can immediately tell I’m not a native speaker and will either respond with “English?”, or just reply in English because I assume it’s quicker for them as their English is way better than my German! So practice is hard to come by, even in those everyday transactional sorts of conversations. More and more I’m finding that people speak English wherever we go now, so having local language skills aren’t as necessary as they were 30 years ago.

I’m hoping English isn’t taking over the world… I mean, if one language has to, I’m glad it’s the one super weird one that I’m completely fluent in! But I think the rapacity with which English is become so globally pervasive is a symptom of the Internet Age. So surely that can’t end anywhere good!


EDITED TO ADD: Local language skills still very much needed!

We got to talking with the man in front of us at the Rammstein concert – he was named Sasha and seemed super excited to meet some Australians who had come all the way to Austria for the concert… said we ‘win the people who travel the most far!’ He was so excited he added BigSal on Facebook and wanted to tag himself in a photo with her… which she obliging did.

Only then she looked up her new ‘friend’ and found she was his new ‘comrade’ in a post that said:


So, yeah… a little bit of Googling later and it seems our conversational skill were good enough for us to accidentally make friends with some full on Nazi white supremacist wanker, and then everything he said to us after that I enthusiastically translated for Sal as : “Ja! I fucked a horse in Berlin!”, because we obviously had no idea what he was saying to us at all!