Sprichst du Deutsch?

Today the little DuoLingo app told me I’ve been spending way too much time on my phone trying to learn German, and then French, and then back to German again. It’s helpful, I can read a lot more than last time I spent any time in Germany, but it’s not as useful in the way that I had always hoped. I mean, I’ve been at this for years now and am nowhere near able to hold casual conversations when meeting new people.

I can manage targeted conversations: “Hello, I’d like to order the x, y, z, please.” or “I’d like two tickets please, one adult and one student.” or “Excuse me, is this seat free?” or even, “We need a car park, can you help me?” … but when it comes to chatting about the weather, what someone does for work, or even interacting with sales people to buy a new winter jacket in the right size, and ‘oh, is this on sale?’ Not so much.

And every time I try to start a conversation with someone in German, they can immediately tell I’m not a native speaker and will either respond with “English?”, or just reply in English because I assume it’s quicker for them as their English is way better than my German! So practice is hard to come by, even in those everyday transactional sorts of conversations. More and more I’m finding that people speak English wherever we go now, so having local language skills aren’t as necessary as they were 30 years ago.

I’m hoping English isn’t taking over the world… I mean, if one language has to, I’m glad it’s the one super weird one that I’m completely fluent in! But I think the rapacity with which English is become so globally pervasive is a symptom of the Internet Age. So surely that can’t end anywhere good!


EDITED TO ADD: Local language skills still very much needed!

We got to talking with the man in front of us at the Rammstein concert – he was named Sasha and seemed super excited to meet some Australians who had come all the way to Austria for the concert… said we ‘win the people who travel the most far!’ He was so excited he added BigSal on Facebook and wanted to tag himself in a photo with her… which she obliging did.

Only then she looked up her new ‘friend’ and found she was his new ‘comrade’ in a post that said:


So, yeah… a little bit of Googling later and it seems our conversational skill were good enough for us to accidentally make friends with some full on Nazi white supremacist wanker, and then everything he said to us after that I enthusiastically translated for Sal as : “Ja! I fucked a horse in Berlin!”, because we obviously had no idea what he was saying to us at all!

Vienna – Kaiserliche Schatzkammer

The Kaiserliche Schatzkammer or the Imperial Treasury of Vienna! Where we are hoping to see all the things that we have seen copies of so far! lol For people into medieval embroidery or early medieval gold work, this place really is a treasure trove. I was super excited to be here, before we even entered the building.

Tabard of the Herald of the Princely County of Tyrol -Johann Fritz (embroider)
Vienna, 1838, Silver lamé, velvet, gold, silver and silk embroidery, silver fringing braid.

From the Left: 1) Staff of the Grand Controllers – Southern German, 1600-1610. 2) Staff of the Grand Steward of the County of Gorlzia – Southern German, c.1660. 3) Staff of the Hungarian Grand Equerry – Vienna, 1700-1725. 4) Staff of the Grand Comptroller – Vienna, 1835. 5) Cane of the Grand Equerry – Vienna, 1790-1800. 6) Staff of a Master of Ceremonies – Vienna, 1800-1850. 7) Staff of a Junior Master of the Table – Vienna, 1800-1810. Staff of the Grand Master of the Table – Vienna, 1835. 8) Staff of a Master of Ceremonies – Vienna, 1800-1835. 9) Staff of a Grand Master of Ceremonies – Vienna, 1850-1900…. Wood or cane, bronze, gilded, and silver mounts.

The Hereditary Banner of Austria. Austria, c.1705.
Silk, damask, embroidered with metal and silk threads.

Keys of the Imperial Chamberlain, from 1711 to 1918.
As a sign of their privileged status chamberlains at the Habsburg court wore a key that symbolized their access to the ruler’s chambers. The office of chamberlain was reserved to members of the high nobility. The holders of this office belonged to the “first society” and were part of the emperor’s retinue at official ceremonies. The falconer’s gear as well as the tabards and staffs on view here are similarly the insignia of various officials or families in the hereditary lands and indicate their rank and status.

Dog Collar, Insignia of the Grand Master of the Hunt, Vienna, 1838.
Velvet, leather gold embroidery. Mounts silver mounted.

Austrian Archducal Coronet of Joseph II, c.1764. Silver glided, diamonds, semi-precious stones removed.
As early as the reign of Duke Rudolf IV (1339-65) the Habsburgs pursued the goal of being raised to the dignity of archduke. Their claim was finally recognized in 1453, and the archducal coronet, an insignia resembling a crown became the official symbol of Habsburg rule in the hereditary lands. Such an insignia was created for Archduke Joseph in 1764 based on medieval models.
The coronet’s gold foil frame, or “carcass”, is exhibited in this room. The jewels were soon removed from the coronet to be used for other purposes.

Insignia for the Hereditary Grand Master Falconer, Vienna, 1835. Leather, velvet, gold braid, gold embroidery and feathers. Falconers pouch and two falcon’s hoods.

Tabard for the Herald of the Roman King, Vienna, 1600-1650; gold lamé, satin, gold embroidery, finger border, glass beading.

Tabard for the Herald of the Roman Emperor, Vienna, 1613 and 1719.
Gold lamé, silk and glass.

Tabard for the Herald of Emperor Francis I Stephen, Vienna, 1775-1750.
Velvet, satin, gold and silver lamé, gold silver and silk embroidery, gold and fringe border.

Tabard for the Herald of the King of Bohemia, Vienna, 1600-1700.
Velvet, gold and silver embroidery, fringing braid, glass beading.

Tabard for the Herald of the King of Hungary, Vienna, 1600-1700.
Silver lamé, gold, silver and silk embroidery, fringing braid.

Crown of Emperor Rudolf II, later crown of the Austrian Empire
Jan Vermeyen goldsmith, Prague, 1602.
Gold, enamel, diamonds, rubies, spinels, sapphires, pearls, velvet

Imperial orb for the crown Rudolf II.
Andreas Osenbruck goldsmith, Prague, 1612-1615.
Gold, enamel, diamonds, rubies, sapphire, pearls.

Sceptre for Emperor Matthias for the crown of Rudolf II.
Andreas Osenbruck Goldsmith, Prague, 1615.
Ainkhürn (narwhal tooth), gold, enamel, diamonds, rubies, sapphire, pearls.

Ceremonial robes of a Knight of the Hungarian Order of St Stephen, Vienna, c.1764.
Velvet, fake ermine, gold and silver embroidery, gimped embroidery in gold.

Robes of a Knight of the Austrian Order of Leopold, Joseph Fisher (1769-1822), Vienna, c.1808.
Gros de tours, fake ermine, gold embroidery, metal foil, ostrich feather, silk

Mantle of the Austrian Emperor, designed by Philipp von Stubenraüch (1784-1848), Vienna, c.1830.
Velvet, gimped embroidery in gold, Paulette’s, gold braid, ermine and silk.

Robes of a Knight of the Austrian Order of the Cross, designer Philipp von Stubenraüch (1784-1948), Vienna 1815/16. Velvet, silver embroidery, leather silver embroidery.

Conronation vestments of the Kingdom of Lombardy and Venetia,
Designer Philipp von Stubenraüch (1784-1848), Vienna, 1838.
Velvet, gimped embroidery, gold, ermine, moiré, gold and silver embroidery.

The Robes worn by King of Bohemia as Elector, Vienna or Prague, c. 1625-1650…
Mantle, gloves and matching ermine hat.

Jewellery Box of Empress Marie Louise, Paris, 1870, silver gilded velvet.
Martin Guillaume Biennais (1764-1843) and Augustin Dupré (1748-1833).

Marie Louse, Empress of the French (1791-1847).
Francois Pascal Simon Gerard, Paris, 1812, oil on canvas.

Cradle of the King of Rome, Paris, 1811. Silver gilded, gold, mother of pearl, velvet, silk, tuile, gold and silk embroidery. Designers and craftsmen: Pierre-Paul Prud’hon (1758-1823), Henri-Victor Roget (1758-1830), Jean-Baprise-Claude Odiot (1733-1850), Pierre-Philippe Thomire (1751-1843).

Ewer and Basin used for Imperial Baptisms, Spanish Master, 1571, gold and partly enamelled.

Diamond Sabre, Turkish, 1650-1700, Vienna, c.1712.
Damascened steel, gold, silver, partly gilded, diamonds, wood, leather.

Two Chains of the Order of the Golden Fleece, court jeweller A.E. Kochert, Vienna, c.1873.
Gold, partly enamelled, diamonds, rubies.

Two Bouquets of Flowers, Florence, c.1680-1700. Gold, partly enamelled, silver gilded, precious stones.

LEFT: Hair Amethyst, Spain, c.1665-1700. Amethyst, gold and emeralds.
RIGHT: Fire Opal, Origin Hungarian, c.1650. Opal, gold and enamelled.

Hyacinth, “La Bella”, Vienna, c.1687. Garnet, gold, silver gilded, enamelled.

Egg Cup form the estate of King Louis XVI of France (1754-1793), Paris, c.1774/80. Silver gilded.

Family Tree showing Kings and Emperors from the House of Habsburg. Gold and chalcedonies.
Tree: Vienna, 1725-30. Intaglios: Christoph Dorsch (1675-1732), Nuremberg, 1725/30/

Cameo showing the Portrait fo Emperor Franz I – Giovanni Beltrami (1777-1854).
Made before 1840. Onyx, and enamelled gold.

Set of Jewels from the estate of Archduchess Sophie (1805-1872), Paris, 1809/19.
Gold, silver, diamonds, emeralds, topazes.

Emerald Unguentarium, Dionysius Miseroni, Prague, c.1641. Emerald 2860 carat, enamelled gold.
‘As early as the 17th century the 2,680-carat emerald vessel was regarded as one of the most famous objects in the Imperial Treasury. The tremendous value of this unique showpiece, whose lid was cut out of the jewel’s interior, is illustrated by the story that Genoese jewellers declined to value it as security for a loan which Emperor Ferdinand III (1608-57) sought, avowing that they were not accustomed to dealing with such large pieces.’
Sadly the light in here is so bad, that I had to pluck an image off the internet.

Crown of Stefan Bocskay, Turkish, c.1605. Gold, precious stones, pearls and silk.

Case for the Crown of Stefan Bocskay, Turkish, c.1605. Fabric: Persian, c.1600, wood and silk.

Hungarian Opal Jewellery Set, Egger Bros, Budapest, c.1881.
Gold, enamelled, Hungarian opals, diamonds, rubies.

The “Two Considerable Treasures” – Emperor Ferdinand I (1503-64) bequeathed to his successor, Emperor Maximilian II, two treasures of special importance: an enormous agate bowl (about 50cm across), and the “Ainkhürn” or unicorn horn. It was laid down that these two pieces would forever remain in the possession of the eldest male member of the family in perpetuity as ‘inalienable heirlooms’ and could not be sold or given as gifts.

Agate Bowl, Constantinople, 300-400AD. Carved from a single piece of agate.

“Ainkhürn”or Unicorn Horn.
Ferdinand I received the “Ainkhürn” as a gift from King Sigismund II of Poland in 1540. During this age the mythical unicorn was thought to be an actual animal, which might only be captured in a virgin’s lap. The unicorn was thus regarded as an allegory of Christ, and its horn a symbol of divine power, from which secular dominion was derived. The horn, which was also thought to be an antidote to poison, was traded in Europe at tremendous prices. Only in the 17th century was it recognized that what had been believed to be unicorn’s horn was in fact the twisting tusk of the narwhal (Monodon monoceros).

I WANT ONE!

Amber Altar, Northern Germany, c.1640/45. Amber, partly painted, metal foil, wax, wood.


The Adoration of the Shepherds, Central Italy, Florence?, Early 17thC.
Oil on alabaster, wood, copper, silver.

The Bag of King Stephen of Hungary, Russia, c. 1080-1120.
Gold and silk embroidery on silk, smokey quartz.

Ivory Reliquary Box, Sicily, 12thC. Ivory on wooden core, brass fittings.

Christophorus Relief, Upper Rhine, c.1475-1500, cast copper, gold-plated, glass stones.

Chalice from the Propety of Emperor Maximilian of Mexico.
Circle of the Rondino Di Guerrino, Sienna, c.1375. Silver, gold plated copper, pit enamelled.

Late Gothic Chalice, Hungary, c.1500. Gold plated silver, gemstones.

Chalice with the Motto of Emperor Friedrich II, Southern Germany likely Nuremberg, 1438.
Gold plated silver.

Holy Blood Monstance, Transylvania, c.1475 contains older spoils.
Gold plated silver, rock crystal, precious stones, semi-precious stones, pearls.

Relicquay Oast Tensorium – Matthias Waltbaum (1554-1632), Augsburg, c.1600.
ebony, silver, partially gold plated.

Reliquary Casket, Venice late 1500s. Wood, sardonyx, lapis lazuli.

Emperor Ferdinand’s Prayer Book, Augsburg, 1590. Approx 5cm tall.
Gold, enamelled, parchment.

Devotional Book of Empress Claudia Felitcitas, Constance, Augsburg, c.1674. Silver and paper

Madonna with the Child and the Boy John – Adam Lenckhardt (1610-1661).
Wurzburg, c.1630. Ivory.

The Flagging of Christ, Rome, c.1635-40. Gold-plated bronze, lapis lazuli, ebony.
Christ: Alessandro Algardi (1598-1654).
Henchmen: Francois Duquesnoy (1597-1643)

Three Kings Reliquary, Paulus Baumann (1567-1634), Augsburg, 1630-35. Silver, gold plated, lapis lazuli.

The Carrying of the Cross – Johann Caspar Schenck (1630-1674), Vienna, c.1664-65. Ivory.

Chalice with Coat of Arms of Emperor Charles VI – Ludwig Schneider (1640-1729), Augsburg, c. 1710/15.
Silver gilded, enamel painting, glass

Christ as Judge of the World
Johann Baptist Känischbauer von Hohenried (1668-1739), Vienna, 1726.
Gold, partially enamelled, rock crystal.

Gloves, Palmero, before 1220.
Samite (silk), gold embroidery, enamel, niello plaques, pearls, precious stones.

Shoes, Sandalia – German, 1600-1625, Palermo, 1100-1300.
Silk, pearls, precious stones, tablet weave, lampas braid.

Blue Tunicella (Dalmatia), Palermo, Royal Court Workshop, 1125-1150.
Silk, gold embroidery, small gold tubes, gold with cloisonné enamel, pearls, tablet weave.

The semi-circular Coronation Mantle of red silk was produced in Palermo in the 12th and early 13th centuries; with its depiction of a lion subduing a camel, the long, richly embroidered outer garments-blue tunicella and white alba-as well as shoes, stockings and gloves together with the belt reflect, (in part based on their inscriptions in part on other evidence), a connection with the Norman kings of Sicily. The overall design and elements of the decoration are derived from the court attire of Byzantine emperors. The older textiles probably came to the Empire through the Hohenstaufen emperor Henry VI. He married the Norman princess Constance in 1186 and became king of Sicily in 1194. In the empire they were apparently thought to be priestly vestments, used for coronations and complemented by additional textiles.

Coronation Mantle, Palermo, Royal Court Workshop, 1133/34.
Samite silk, gold and silk embroidery, pearls, enamel, filigree, precious stones, tablet weave.

OMG… finally a chance to see this! I’ve been looking at pictures of these objects in books for nearly three decades. I can’t believe I get to see them in person.

The Eagle Dalmatic, South German, c.1330/40.
Red silk twill damask, embroidery in silk, gold, small axinites.

The Stola (below) imitates a ‘loros’ an older type of textile of Byzantine or Norman origin. The six metre-long sash of yellow silk was decorated with black imperial eagles in medallions, only one of which has been preserved. Differently than the original manner of wearing the “loros”, in the medieval Holy Roman Empire the long sash was worn as a priest’s stola, that is forming a cross across the breast. This can be seen in Albrecht Dürer’s famous portrayal of Charlemagne (Room 11). The purple Dalmatic is embroidered with eagles and crowned heads. In this way the wearer of the garment is associated both with the heraldic beast of the Holy Roman Empire and his predecessors as king.

Alba, Palermo, Royal Court Workshop, c.1181 with later additions.
Taffeta silk, Samite silk, fold wire embroidery, pearls, precious stones and tablet weave.

Stole, Italy, before 1328. Louise silk, gold threads, pearls, silver gilded appliqués with graduation, champlevé enamel and glass stones.

Imperial Cross, Western German, c.1030. Body: oak, precious stones, pearls, niello.
Base: Prague, later additions c.1352, silver gilded enamel.

The Burse of St. Stephen, Carolingian, 800-833. Wooden body, gold, precious, stones, pearls.

Imperial Crown, Western German, c.960-980. Cross: 1020. Arch: 1024-1039.
Gold, cloisonné enamel, precious stones, pearls.

Idealised portrait of Emporer Charlemagne (742-812).
Copy after Albrecht Dürer (1471-1528), German c.1600. Oil on canvas.

Idealised portrai of Emperor Sigmund (1361-1437).
Copy after Albrecht Dürer (1471-1528), German, c.1600. Oil on canvas.

Vestments worn by Emperor Francis Stephen I of Lorraine (Baroque copies of the Coronation Vestments of the Holy Roman Empire). Vienna 1763/64.

Stole, Vienna 1763/64. Gold lamé, silk embroidery, gold, partly enamelled.

Gloves, Vienna 1763/64. Atlas silk, gold embroidery, gold enamel, precious stones.

Dalmatic, Vienna 1763/64. Altas silk, gold, partly enamelled.

Mantle, Vienna 1763/64. Atlas silk, gold and silk embroidery, gold braid, enamel, precious stones.

Alba, Vienna 1763/64. Atlas silk, gol, silver and silk embroidery, precious stones.

Room full of extant herald’s tabards! Mostly 1700s, but just gorgeous.

Herald for the King-At-Arms and Herald of the Archduchy of Brabant, Brussels, c.1717.
Embroiderer: Louis Almé. Velvet, gold lamé, appliqué, gold embroidery and fringing braid.

Herald’s Tabard for the King-At-Arms and Herald of the Duchy of Burgundy, Brussels, c.1600-1700.
Velvet, silver lamê, fringing braid.

Tabard for a Herald of Maria Theresia (First King at Arms), Brussels, c.1742.
Embroiderer: Eldens. Velvet, gold and silver lamé, appliqué, gold, silver and silk embroidery, gold braid.

Tabard for the First King-At-Arms of Archduke Albrecht, Sovereign of the Netherlands.
Brussels, c.1599-1621. Velvet, gold and silver lamé, appliqué, gold silver and silk embroidery, fringing braid.

Emperor Maximilian I (1459-1519) – Bernhard Strigel (1460-1519), German, c.1500. Oil on Limewood.


Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy hoped to succeed Emperor Frederick Ill on the throne of the Holy Roman Empire. To achieve his aim, he assented to the marriage of his only daughter Mary to Archduke Maximilian, the emperor’s son and heir. The wedding, however, only took place after the duke’s death in 1477. Mary and Maximilian’s son Philip was born on 19 April 1478, ensuring the “Burgundian heritage” would ultimately remain with the House of Habsburg.

Mary, Duchess of Burgundy (1457-1482) – Francesco Terzio, Southern Germany, c. 1600 terracotta.

Tapestry Showing the arms of Emperor Charles V – weaver: Willem de Pannemaker, Brussels, c.1540.
Wool, silk, gold and silver thread.

Tabard for the Stattholder First King-at-Arms, called Towson d’Or (Golden Fleece), Brussels c.1580.
Velvet, gold and silver lamé, gold, silver and silk embroidery.

Order of the Golden Fleece Knight’s Chain, Burgundian-Netherlands, c.1435-1465. Gold and enamel.

Potence Chain of Arms of the Herald of the Order of the Golden Fleece, Netherlandish, c.1517.
Gold and enamel.

This is one of the most beautiful heraldic objects I’ve never seen. I’ve admired it for years… never thought I’d be able o see it.

I am completely unapologetic for the amount photographs that I took and have added here!

Just when you think the Schatzkammer has delivered up all it’s treasures – the next room contains only some of *the* most famous embroidered objects ever created. I like did a double take when walking in… it was like the first time I saw the Cluny Tapestries all over again. They are so amazing and so beautifully preserved! Just fucking spectacular!

Liturgical Vestments of the Order of the Golden Fleece.
Cope of the Virgin, Burgundian, c.1425-1440.
Embroidery on linen, metal and silk threads, pearls, pastes (glass), velvet.
Hood depicting the virgin.

Liturgical Vestments of the Order of the Golden Fleece.
Dalmatic, Burgundian, c.1425-1440.
Embroidery on linen, metal and silk threads, pearls and velvet.

Liturgical Vestments of the Order of the Golden Fleece.
Cope of Christ (Pluvial), Burgundian, c.1425-1440.
Embroidery on linen, metal and silk threads, pearls, pastes (glass), velvet.
Hood depicting the Almighty.

Liturgical Vestments of the Order of the Golden Fleece.
Casula, Burgundian, c.1425-1440.
Embroidery on linen, metal and silk threads, pearls, pastes (glass), velvet.

Liturgical Vestments of the Order of the Golden Fleece.
Cope of John the Baptist, Burgundian, c.1425-1440.
Embroidery on linen, metal and silk threads, pearls, pastes (glass), velvet.
Hood depicting John the Baptist.

Liturgical Vestments of the Order of the Golden Fleece.
ABOVE: Antependium (rear panel), Burgundian, c.1425-1440; the Trinity, prophets and apostles.
BELOW: Antependium (front panel), Burgundian, c.1425-1440; Mythical marriage of St Catherine
Embroidery on linen, metal and silk threads, pearls, pastes (glass).

Phew! Man, I haven’t been a smoker since May 17th 1997… but damn, after that I need a cigarette and a good lie down. Back out in the Real World, I had to make do with some bratwurst and a Coke Zero!
What an amazing visit! I think this has now officially out paced the Museé de Moyen Age as my favourite museum.

Vienna – Schönbrunn Palace

Our itinerary for Vienna (outside of Eurocup stuff) was to check out as many museums as possible; but it felt very much like you can’t take a trip to Vienna without going to the Schönbrunn.

Commissioned by Leopold I in 1696, it was designed and built to the preferred baroque architectural style at that time, it is heavy and ornate with large sweeping staircases and colonnades. It was intended as a summer palace and hunting lodge not far from the River Wein, and had several halting stages of construction (due to the lack of funds resultant from war with Spain among other Hapsburg trials). Emperor Charles VI gave it to his daughter Maria Theresia who was apparently particularly fond of the place, and it was she who left the largest mark on the estate.

I remember the palace really well from visiting here in 1995 and mostly remember that it was huge, ornate and we had a very cool guide showing us around. It was also a rather quiet place without too many tourists and not a lot of ropes or glass stopping you from interacting with the space (unlike my memories of Versailles that same trip). Everything was about the Empress Maria Theresia, her investment and design decisions regarding the estate and her prolific offspring that were wed to the various royal houses on the continent leading to her being named, the ‘Grandmother of Europe’. Her name was uttered with a thick Austrian accent numerous times in every single room!

Jesus has this place changed… thanks to the Netflix TV services, “Empress”, the entire palace now is all about Elizabeth – also known as, ‘Sisi’, who was married to the Emperor Franz Josef some one hundred years after Maria Theresia. Seriously, you could could be forgiven for leaving here thinking that Sisi built the place and was the only royal to have lived here! The free roaming tour with polite ‘please don’t touch the velvet wallpaper’ signs are gone, and in it’s place is a rigid, timed and structured audio tour keeping you in glass walkways well away from the artefacts. The palace was packed with visitors… though given it was late afternoon, I imagine it is even worse in the mornings.

Oh, and nice overpriced touristy carriage rides on offer around the grounds.

Still it is a lovely building and there is a lot to see here; having recently seen the over the top Nymphemberg Palace, among others, it does all start to feel a bit same-same, though.

The Billiard Room – ‘Franz Jospeh saw himself first and foremost as an officer of his army. Appropriately, the subject of the large format paintings in this room is the Military Order of Maria Theresa, the highest military order of merit of of the Habsburg Monarchy.’ Which was pointed out on the audio-tour… but possibly ignored as everyone is here to hear about Sisi!

Audience Chamber – Here the various emperors received individuals who had been granted a private audience with the monarch. Members of the government, high ranking military officers and court officials were also summoned here several times a week to deliver their reports.

Emperor Franz Joseph’s (aka Sisi’s husband) Study – A host of personal pictures and photographs bear witness to the style of interior favoured by the emperor in his private quarters. Over the course of his long life he amassed in this room a wealth of mementos of his wife Elisabeth (Sisi), their four children and thirteen grandchildren.’

Ketterl Room – the concealed door in the back wall of the study leads into the valet de chambre’s rooms. I’m not sure what a Ketterl is…

Franz Joseph’s Bedroom – the emperor’s bedroom was also where he died on November 21, 1916. The brown is a bit… meh.

Stairs Cabinet – the Stairs Cabinet served Empress Elisabeth as a writing room. Here she wrote her letters, journals and her poetry. The bookcase still contains part of her personal library apparently.

Dressing Room – immediately adjacent to the bedroom, the dressing room was the innermost and most private room in the empress’s apartments. Sisi was known to have a strict diet and beauty regimen to maintain her girlish figure and look after her ankle length hair.

Imperial Couple’s Bedroom – the bedroom in the Italian style that was shared by Franz Joseph and Sisi was furnished and decorated as we see it now, for their marriage in 1854.

Salon of Empress Elisabeth – this was Sisi’s primary reception room. “The Rococo Revival interior is a typical example of the furnishing and decoration of a state room at the Viennese court during the reign of Emperor Franz Joseph.”… and is way too chintzy for me.

Marie Antoinette Room – during the time when Elisabeth occupied these apartments, the Marie Antoinette Room was used as the family dining room for small dinners in the immediate family circle and attended by the imperial couple and their children, and later on their daughter and sons-in-law and grandchildren. So, like a casual breakfast nook really.

Yellow Salon – the Yellow Salon is the first room in the apartments facing the palace gardens. From the windows of these rooms one has a stunning view of the main parterre with the Gloriette as the lofty termination of the vista. <- I did not write that.

Balcony Room – continuing numerous pictures of Maria Theresa and her numerous children. The portraits are from the the studio of court painter Martin van Meytens. This was quite a nice room actually.

Breakfast Cabinet – this little corner room owes its ‘pleasing character’ (according to the audio) to the textile flower pictures set into the wall panelling in gilt frames. It’s lovely, but so delicate and feminine. I think trying to relax in these spaces would just put me on edge.

Salon of the Arch Duchess Portraits – this room is done in a Rococo Revival decor and once belonged to the apartments occupied by Empress Elizabeth. Today it contains the famous portraits of Maria Theresa’s daughters, and is therefore also sometimes known as the Children’s Room.

Large Rosa Room – the three Rosa Rooms are named after the artist Joseph Rosa, who executed fifteen landscaping paintings for the ensemble at the behest of Maria Theresa in the 1760s. See, Maria Theresa did all the work, and somehow Sisi is now the belle of the ball!

Second Small Rosa Room – consisting of one large room and two adjoining smaller room, the Rosa Rooms form an ensemble with a cohesive decor plan.

Great Gallery – Okay, this is pretty great still. It is 43 metres long, and just shy of 10 metres wide, the Great Gallery was the used as an ideal setting for courtly events. The interior is dripping with magnificent gilt stucco decorations and ceiling frescos represents the epitome of Rococo art – which is fabulous, if you like that sort of thing.

Okay, I love the chandeliers! Want one at home, though it may be hard to manoeuvre around given the high ceiling in my house is only about 14’. 🙂

Round Chinese Cabinet – half concealed to either side of the Small Gallery lie two highlights among the historic state rooms of the palace; two cabinets lying opposite each other in mirror-image, both decorated with a rich array of works of art from China and Japan… though it ends up being subtlely chinoiserie, as it’s all surrounded in those heavy Rococo frames.

Small Gallery – crossing the central axis of the palace, the Small Gallery, together with the two smaller rooms on either side, made for small salons used for intimate courtly entertainment. I still can’t imagine living in a place like this, how do you decide which room is appropriate for a game of Code Names?

Oval Chinese Cabinet:

Hall of Ceremonies – at the court of Maria Theresa the Hall of Ceremonies served as the Second or Great Antechamber. Here, enthroned under a canopy of state, she received her guests in audience. Today this place is occupied by probably the most famous portrait of Maria Theresa, showing her as the ‘First Lady of Europe’ in a sumptuous gown of Brabant lace. Sumptuous – good word.

Vieux Laque Room – in terms of its art-historical significance, the Vieux Laque Room is apparently among the most important interiors of the Schönbrunn. The black lacquer panels from China lend the room an impression of decadence and magnificence.

Needs more gilt…

Napoleon Room – known today as the Napoleon Room, the room was refurbished several times during the 19thC. When it was restored in 2007 the decision was taken to highlight various phases of its past decoration and make this visible to visitors. I don’t know why it’s called the Napoleon Room, they didn’t say?!

Porcelain Room – this small room served as Maria Theresa’s private writing room. It has a particularly private character and was decorated to her personal tastes apparently. The decor not only displays the empress’s love of the chinoiserie fashion of the times but was partly made by members of her family – it interestingly the most monochromatic area in the entire place, but still full of baroque clutter. .

Millions Rooms – the interior of the Millions Room (named for the Indo-Persian works attached to the walls) is particularly extravagant. In the ceremonial sequence of rooms prescribed for the Viennese court, Maria Theresa used this room, originally known as the Mirrors Room, to receive guests for private audiences. Okay, so the house is definitely all still about Maria Theresa – so why is the advertising, posters, website and gift shop all about Sisi?

Gobelin Salon – both the walls and the armchairs in this room are covered in valuable tapestries; the backs of the seats of the six chairs each show representations together with the signs of the Zodiac… it’s pretty flash.

Red Salon – known today as the Red Salon, this room is decorated in the style typical of the later years of Emperor Franz Jospeh’s reign. The room is characterised by the wall hangings and upholstery in ‘court damask’, a red silk damask with a design based on a pineapple like central motif.

Rich Room.
The Rich Room does its name full justice, on display here is Maria Theresa’s state bed with its lavishly embroidered covers and hanging. Love it!

Salon of Archduke Franz Karl – a glass door allows a view into the corner salon, which is decorated with life-size portraits of Maria Theresa’s children.

I didn’t take a lot of photos of the corridors and staircases (I say staircases for there are several!), but there are plenty of statuary placed around the common areas of the palace, much of which doesn’t have any plaques informing visitors of the artist or the content. Though this one is most likely Hercules defeating the Lion.

All up a cool, slightly confusing visit to the Shönbrunn… I wish I had taken some pictures of the gift shop and the posters around the palace that were all, ‘Sisi this, Sisi that!’ Poor Maria Theresa, how was she to know she would need a better post humours PR machine 300 years after her death. Netflix, you have a lot to answer for!