Another Great Wave of Disappointment

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The Great Wave off Kanagawa (神奈川沖浪裏 Kanagawa Oki Nami Ura?, “In the well of a wave off Kanagawa”), also known as The Great Wave or simply The Wave, is a woodblock print by the Japanese ukiyo-e artist Hokusai. It was published sometime between 1830 and 1833[1] in the late Edo period as the first print in Hokusai’s series Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji (富嶽三十六景 Fugaku sanjūrokkei?).  It is Hokusai’s most famous work, and one of the best recognized works of Japanese art in the world.  It depicts an enormous wave threatening boats off the coast of the prefecture of Kanagawa.  While sometimes assumed to be a tsunami, the wave is, as the picture’s title suggests, more likely to be a large rogue wave or okinami (“wave of the open sea”).[2]  As in all the prints in the series, it depicts the area around Mount Fuji under particular conditions, and the mountain itself appears in the background.

Copies of the print are in many Western collections, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City, the British Museum in London, the Art Institute of Chicago, LACMA in Los Angeles, the National Gallery of Victoria in Melbourne,[3] and in Claude Monet’s house in Giverny, France, amongst many other collections.

This is Mr K’s favourite piece of art. Which is by way of saying, it’s the only piece of art he has ever been interested in or appears to enjoy, because well… as loathe as I am to admit he – the poor sod has no genuine appreciation for art in general, whatsoever. Such a sad miserable artless life Mr K does live. 😉 Anyway, onto my story. Mr K’s enjoyment of this piece goes way back – his iPhone 3 had a Great Wave gelaskin back in the day and now his iPhone 6+ sports it as a screen background, as does his PC at home these many years… yes, it’s this level of die hard dedication and appreciation we are talking about here *tongue firmly in cheek*.imageSo back up a few years to Mr K’s first trip to the MET in New York… he was excited to think he was going to be able to see The Great Wave on display.  Wandered the galleries, wandered some more galleries – but alas, no Great Wave.  After much wailing and gnashing of teeth, he eventually resorted to asking for directions to the piece, but was told that it was a very delicate object and is not currently on display.  Naturally Mr K was disappointed to miss out..

After that trip, he came home and researched and found out that the National Gallery of Victoria has a copy of this magnificent woodblock print, and he felt this would be an excellent thing as his work takes him to Melbourne semi-regularly. However, each and every time he has found himself in Melbourne for work, ‘We are sorry, sir, but that item is not on display.’ and he has missed out again.  Shit and bugger, Mr K has been repeatedly thwarted and disappointed in his efforts to see it in Melbourne.

Last year in March 2014 – off to NYC again, this time with me!  And I drag him all over all the MET galleries, at some point he abandons me for the New York Transport museum which is way downtown and I’m still wandering the MET.  We are pretty sure it’s not out, but ask around anyway, and yet again – no, the Great Wave is not on display at this time either, however we are happy to keep flogging merchandise featuring the image of the Great Wave on tote bags, pencil cases, coffee mugs and umbrellas, in the gift shop!  😉  More piss and vinegar from Mr K as he misses it, yet again.

imageimageA couple of weeks later we are at the Boston Museum of Fine Arts and I stumble on some notepaper featuring the Great Wave in the MFA gift shop and ask the staff why they have items featuring the Great Wave… the response, “Well, the MFA has a copy of that woodblock print so we have stuff with the Great Wave all over it, but it’s not on display at the moment because it’s really old and fragile.” The look on Mr K’s face is priceless… waves, waves, everywhere, but nary an original to be seen. He’s getting seriously annoyed by this time, well as seriously annoyed as your average Canadian gets!

imageAt some point in amongst all this Mr K reads a news article detailing how there was a large set of Hokusai’s original prints from the ‘Views of Mt Fuji’ series, in the Wellness Spa of the Costa Concordia, which some drunken cruise liner captain sailed aground on January 13th, 2012 in an ill conceived game of high stakes chicken with an island off Italy.  The tragedy of it all… Mr K is lamenting his poor decision to not have been born sole heir to an enormous coal mining fortune; for if he had, he claims he would have purchased a copy of it himself by now, and have it on loan to the modest Queensland Art Gallery so he could enjoy it whenever he wanted.  Such determination to see this one piece of art!

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So here we are, 2014 and the planning begins for a trip to Japan.  Mr K is convinced he will finally see a copy of his beloved Great Wave off Kanagawa somewhere in Japan.  So he starts doing his research on every art museum he can find in all the cities and towns we are going to be visiting.  Without fail, every single one of them comes up empty… not a single copy of this artwork can be found listed as on display in any of the major art museums of Japan!  Mr K is very disappointed – yet again.  Which brings us up to date – when two days ago, we were shopping in Kagurazaka and I see the now ubiquitous, Great Wave on a fan…
IMG_6500Naturally, I decide that I really should buy one, (which gains me a growl of indignation from Mr K) and just on spec while the sales assistant is ringing up my purchase and wrapping up my new fan, I decide to ask him 1) does he speak English, and upon affirmation that yes he does a little, 2) does he know where we can go to see this piece of art?  Well, off the top of his head, he doesn’t know… but he turns to his computer and starts searching the internet for us.  On all the Japanese websites that we can’t read and English Google doesn’t deal with so well.  In a few moments, he turns back to us and starts writing down an address for the Ota Memorial Museum of Art, and tells us that it looks like they have a copy on display.  Mr K is watching this exchange with increasing interest until eventually he walks out of the store with a huge grin and a piece of paper that will lead him to the promised Great Wave.

We head off to the war museum and shrine as planned, stop for some lunch and then head to the Ota Memorial Museum of Art.  A bit of a walk, a couple of trains and subway stops later and we arrive at the museum… only to discover this:
imageFor those of us who don’t speak Japanese, myself included, this poster tells us that the piece in question will be on display from the 1st of August until the 27th of September 2015.  Well, as luck would have it, we are back from our cruise on Monday the 3rd of August and have the whole day free before we fly out for China at stupid o’clock on Tuesday the 4th of August… those of you who ‘museum’ a lot, can probably feel what is coming next.  Yes, that is right.  The Ota Memorial Museum is CLOSED ON MONDAYS is the great tradition of museums the world over.  At this point all decorum is lost and Mr K is pouting like a small child who has just been told he can ride the pony and see the clowns, but at the last moment is sent to bed. Oh, the complete lack of comprehension at such bad luck expressed by someone normally in possession of a Parking Fairy, it’d be hilarious if it weren’t so ridiculous by now.

So poor Mr K is thwarted yet again… and to absolutely and finally rub salt into the wound, the Metropolitan Museum of Art is holding celebrations to commemorate the centennial of their Asian Collections later this year, and I am going to be there to see it, but Mr K will not be with me.

imageAfter all the chasing and research that has gone into finding a copy of this woodblock print on display, I would actually like to see the piece as well… but there is a little part of me, thinking – perhaps I should avoid it at the MET in September, so that we can continue to hunt for it together.  🙂

Stasia Burrington

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Yale found a beautiful image earlier this week and I went looking for the artist – her name is Stasia Burrlington, and there was an entire series of work in this style.  I love her beautiful use of the bodyscape as landscape and the gently erotic nature of these images – the beauty of the bodies combined with the beauty of the flowers… makes me want to go cover my limbs in chrysanthemum tattoos!   🙂

Boston Museum of Fine Arts

Oh Boston, thank you so much for this lovely Spring weather. It had warmed up somewhat compared to what we had in Philadelphia and New Haven, but now you’ve bought on the rain. Ta. Still, Massachusetts Ave does look pretty in the rain.mass-ave-in-the-rain.jpgAs does the Boston Commons, but it does render one disinclined to go walking about in it!Boston-Commons-rain.jpgBoston-common-raining-2.jpg
Instead we decided to make a day of staying indoors at the Boston Museum of Fine Arts, along with half the city it would seem – the place was terribly busy for what should have been a lazy Sunday. Nevermind, Mr K’s Parking Fairy kicked in, and instead of parking in the Museum carpark for $22 for only 2.5hrs, he found a ‘don’t bother paying on Sunday’ street park closer than the Museum’s own car park. Woo-hoo. Also, love the buy your own ticket machine in the foyer – it didn’t feel the need to scrutinise my student ID like I was from another planet because it had never heard of my University. 🙂 Just inside the door we were greeted by this fabulous Cleopatra statue as a welcoming whet the appetite tidbit… and she made a lovely change to the surly security staff at all the Washington and New York museums and attractions. That’s right, no security checks here at all – all theatre, I tell you.Cleopatra-statue-at-mfa.jpg
And just around the corner from her was the coat check room and this welcoming sign…
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Directly opposite the coat check was a small display of jewellery which ranged from 300BC bracelets of Roman origin to Van Cleefs, Cartiers, Lalique and a host of others. Also this stunning, American flag inspired, Harry Winston mask; made of diamonds, rubies and sapphires. All the pretties, can’t imagine what the sum value of that one little room room is. harry-winston-ruby-sapphire-diamond-mask.jpg We also went into a small temporary exhibit of musical instruments and saw some lovely harps from the 17thC and some 16thC harpsicords.
image*NB – not a harp! image *NB – not a 16thC, this one is much later and the others are stashed safely in my camera.

As it turns out, the entire Impressionist Wing is undergoing refurbishment at the moment which would be a great disappointment for many coming to visit the MFA, and they decided to take a rather novel approach to dealing with having to close off a collection. Rather than send that collection on tour while they are renovating the galleries, they decided to hold an online pole to select the public’s favourite 30 pieces from the MFA’s impressionist collection and host a ‘Boston Loves Impressionism’ exhibit in one of their special exhibition halls for the duration the galleries would be unavailable. So even though the wing was closed, we got a condensed view of the favourite impressionist masters.
The three most popular items were Van Gogh’s ‘House at Auvers’, yet another of Monet’s waterlilly series, and this now well known Degas sculpture.imageRsTSnWO3kYZwphfJ.jpgimage
This small collection, as voted by the public, was really quite impressive. Not the least of which because of the sheer volume of Monets they had in the room. I particularly loved this lesser known work,’Valley at the Creuse in Sunlight’, and really loved the detail of it, which of course up close, just looks like a big ol’ mess. You can see his signature in the second detailed image, signed in 1889.monet-cliffs.jpg
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I also love this Renoir, ‘Grand Canal of Venice’ painted in 1881. When exhibited for the first time in Paris, it scandalized the Parisian public with one critic denouncing it as ‘the most outrageous series of ferocious daubs that any slanderer of Venice could possibly imagine!’ Such a fabulous quote. Imagine what they’d make of art today.
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Wandering through the museum itself was quite a treat too, much like the MET, it is in an amazing building, this is a quick shot of the fresco above the Rotunda at the centre of the museum.rotunda-ceiling.jpgAnd lurking in a hidden corner was a cast bronze statue from which the enormous marble Lincoln memorial was cast.model-lincoln-statue.jpg

We took an extensive wander through the European Collections, having felt a bit like we had absorbed plenty of American history and culture this trip already, and found it to be a bit haphazard in it’s arrangement. There was a LOT of Regency decorative arts on display and then in the middle of it, this teapot collection covering a time frame… but teapot collection in the Boston Museum, was bound to be something that piqued my intersest,boston-teapot-collection-1.jpgboston-teapot-collection-2.jpg

Bit further into the Regency stuff and saw this delightful English writing box, so well kept.regency-writing-box.jpgAnd this wonderful oak panelled room with lush draper and an enormous carved heraldic mantlepiece. Mr K feels that when we buy our New Haven mansion, we should consider modelling one of the formal parlours on this room (the Chesterfield won’t look too out of place), and keep a locked box for people to throw their mobile phones into while we all sit around drinking brandy and talking politics – yes, I think this place is getting to him somewhat.regency-oak-panelled-room-2.jpgregency-oak-panelled-room1.jpgregency-oak-heraldry.jpg
I snapped a pic of this fabulous ceramic dish which if memory serves was 18th French, but the strong colours in it remind me of all the Turkish ceramics. Love the design.
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And then I had that moment when you know you have been travelling too long… sometimes, it’s seeing your friends hiding behind ancient Roman ruins taking a pee, sometimes it’s realising that your passport photo now looks better than you do, but for this trip, it was this absurd comment that let me know it must be time to go home soon – “Oh look. Another wall of Rembrandts.” Yes, I actually said that.more-rembrandts.jpg
I did however have a far more appropriate response to rounding another corner and seeing this fabulous Rogier van der Weyden just hanging there beside me. Simply beautiful. I took about a dozen photos of this with my real camera, I think the gallery staff were wondering what was wrong with me, it’s not like anyone else was paying it any attention. 🙂
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And directly opposite a fabulous Heironymous Bosch triptych.
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This is “The Lamentation” by Luchas Cranach the Elder (c.1536) and even though it has no cool costuming in it, the guy in red looked like someone we know, so I had to grab some pics.
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I loved this painting. These and the ‘artist in his studio’ type thing always make me think the 4th wall of painting has been broken. It’s called ‘Picture Gallery wit Views of Modern Rome’, painted in 1757 by Pannini and was an extravagant souvenir of Rome, commissioned by the Duc de Choiseul to commemorate his stay in Rome as the French ambassador to the Vatican (there’s a job!). I loved that the further I looked into the painting the more familiar Rome landmarks I saw.
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Next we jumped forward a little bit and found ourselves in the last of the Regency rooms and into some pre-Raphaelites. Leighton, Millet and Rossetti were represented.
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But then cross the hall we encountered a tiny full on Medieval room with a few 13th century column capitals (French), a Limoge enamelled pigeon…
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and an entire 12th century Spanish chapel’s worth of frescos! It seemed so out of place here to see these frescos. I have seen many similar Christian frescos in situ in Spain, Italy, Greece and even Turkey (though those are often heavily vandalized), and it seem really odd to encounter such a thing in a museum in downtown Boston. Made me wonder, many people want to repatriate the Egyptian treasure back to Egypt, should items like this chapel, be sent back to Spain?
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Then the oddly laid out European Collections spat us out into this gallery which flowed straight into – Contemporary Glass?!?
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I didn’t catch the glass sculptors name on this piece, but I liked the juxtaposition with the jaunty coloured glass and the moody (oh, ok… bloody miserable) Boston weather behind it.
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I absolutely loved this piece – I searched high and low for the artist statement, name and date info, but as it was standing in the middle of a large room, I couldn’t find it. You can not believe how difficult it was to photograph this glass and mirror installation, but it really appealed to me, so I persevered.
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And plenty of detail to show off the piece…
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We ventured a tiny bit further into the contemporary art exhibit and saw this Charles Close bit, before deciding to flee the modern art and seek shelter in the comforting gift shop for a bit.
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Like most museums, they do have an excellent book store and gift shop, though one thing is starting to give Mr K, the shits. We are wandering through having a look at all the pretties and taking names of all the books I want that I can’t fit in my luggage, but which are readily available on the Book Depository (God bless their cotton socks!), and are seeing all these trinkets and prints and souvenirs with ‘The Great Wave off Kanagawa’ by Katsushika Hokusai represented all over them and wondering if the MFA has a print. And yes, it turns out that much like the MET, they have a copy, and much like the MET, they NEVER have it on display because it is too fragile… but they are quite happy to make money off it in the museum store. Sigh…
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So that is now three museums where Mr K might have had an opportunity to view his all time favourite piece of art (which is saying something, because he’s not really into art), and each time, foiled by the desire to conserve. Surely there must be one museum in world with two copies of the print that are prepared to put one on view and save the other for posterity? 🙂

And so endeth our tour of the Boston Fine Arts Museum with a dash through the pouring rain back to the car!