Fujisan Museum

The Fuji area of Yamanashi Prefecture has sooo many museums. If we had loads of time, we would have tried to do two or three a day and it would take you a couple of weeks to see them all. However, given we are moving on today, we decided to go to the Fujisan Museum as Mt Fuji holds a special place in Mr K’s heart after he climbed it in 2015. The museum itself is a beautiful and impressive modern building with a large viewing area on the roof that has uninterrupted views of Mt Fuji on a clear today – which unfortunately, in the direction of the mountain; today wasn’t really.


Much of the walkways and underpasses around the museum were constructed of lava formed stones/rock…

There were numerous informative displays contained inside – and obviously I couldn’t replicate them all here. Many of the objects had only descriptions in Japanese and I translated only those that were of greatest interest.

At the beginning of the Heinan Period (c.794-1185AD) Mt Fuji experienced repeated large scale eruptions. At the time, it was believed that the eruptions were due to angered gods and the Imperial Court ordered that people worship Mt Fuji as a God to appease the god and attempt to quiet the eruptions and avert disasters… it didn’t seem to ‘work’ per se, but they gave it a good go by the sounds of it.

Climbing the mountain and leaving small sacrifices became a ritual pilgrimage that many Japanese (men in particular) aimed to achieve at least once in their lifetimes. A sentiment that seems to still carry forward today with many having climbed the mountain at least once. The god-like status of the mountain saw it become prevalent in many artistic endeavours through the period and since – indeed now, with mass production, representations of Mt Fuji are probably more prolific a motif than any other throughout Japan.

A scroll carrying container… c.1640s

Depictions of climbers in antique scrolls.

Cloth flags carried by climbers undertaking pilgrimages across the last century.

Today, modern climbers will carry a pilgrim’s walking pole which has the symbol of each station passed on the climb burned into the pole as a keepsake. In times past, pilgrims would have their clothing ‘stamped’ to show the passing of the many different stations on the way up the mountain.

The Cherry Blossom Princess believed to inhabit Mt Fuji.

Each year a Fire Festival is held at Mt Fuji, it is an annual ritual that is part of worshiping the mountain – origins of the festival are vague, but it is a great honour to be chosen to help run the festival each year and become a six month all-consuming task for those who undertake it. First is the heavy task of soliciting donations to make the pyres that will be burned in late August – over 70 3m pyres are needed and stated around to be burned simultaneously during the festival.

A woodblock print showing the people engaging in the fire festival around the base of Mt Fuji. Below: the actual wood blocks used to create this amazing print.
An example of the 3m pine pyre that will be carried to the base of the mountain from the Kitaguchi Hongu Fuji Sengen Shrine and lit on fire during the Fire Festival.

A personal hand mirror with a motif of Mt Fuji from the Edo Period, considered a sacred object.A piece of molten rock that turned into a projectile during an eruption on Mt Fuji.The various strata formed by the repeated eruptions – 8m high.Model of Jason Period home…The area has also long been known for it’s textiles, particularly silk, and more recently has gained world renown for its linen manufacturing as well.

Maps showing the various routes up to Mt Fuji – this from 1926….This from 1964… And this a contemporary map showing the different routes that hikers take to the summit.

 

Fuji Onsenji Yumendono

On our last trip to Japan, Mr K and I stayed in a gorgeous little ryokan in an onsen (hot spring) town just outside of Osaka. On this trip, we decided to stay in a few more traditional ryokan to absorb the culture, enjoy the amazing kaiseki meals and soak in the onsens. Given I’m a heathen tattooed type creature and tattoos still being somewhat taboo and publically unwelcome, where possible I have opted for accommodations with a private onsen in the room… yes, this means you are usually looking at the higher end of accommodation options – as they don’t seem to put private onsen baths in rooms at backpacker hostels – but it’s totally worth it.

First night in country and we are staying at the beautiful Fuji Onsenji Yumendono in Fujikawagyckio, which it turns out is rated as one of Japan’s best luxury onsen ryokans.

It’s right in the middle of town, but the gardens, quiet lounge/reception areas and private nature of the rooms make you feel like you could be anywhere. Our room is beautiful, it has a traditional Japanese feel but if obviously newly appointed. Everything feels beautiful catered to and well thought out… if you’ve ever been in a ryokan the tatami mats have a very particular, and quite lovely, welcoming aroma and this place has a delicious fresh timber smell as well.

We wasted no time in figuring out where everything is, got our things stashed and slid into the onsen. The water was hot and very inviting – and thankfully we had remembered to stop at a Lawson’s to pick up some of my favourite Hakutsuru saké. It’s so nice to be back in the land of the $3 bottle of saké… this bottle would cost somewhere between $18 and $25 in a Japanese restaurant in Australia. #robynshappyplace

After a lovely soak in the hot spring and a couple of bottles of saké later we went to the ryokan’s restaurant for the first (yes the first, I have booked us at many nice ryokans to come!) kaiseki meal of the trip. Fuji Onsenji Yumendono has a reputation for having an amazing kitchen and the omikaze dinners are renown – we have no idea what we will be having but I’m sure we will get the opportunity to try many new and interesting things. We got dressed in our yakuta and didn’t just make our way to the dining rooms… no, we were collected by our ummm… is he a butler? He’s been carrying our things, constantly asking us if we need anything and telling us ‘dinner is served’??

Dinner was served in a private dining room for two… we had an option of a Japanese low table dining space or a western table. I love the Japanese tables, but since my knee operation, I’m not as nimble as I’d like to be… this was just the first course/remove; a tray of interesting amuse bouche, some of which we couldn’t quite recognise and the menu didn’t have a description of – it’s kind of ‘the chefs autumnal choices’… and WOW! There was definitely a little shrimp, some mackerel, ikura, a little soup in the cup at the back… so many different flavours.

After that was (what turned out to be my favourite), a turtle soup with shark fin – this was delicious with rich umami flavours. Mr K was too busy watching me in raptures to appropriately appreciate it, in my humble opinion. 😉

After that was a delicious tray of fresh sashimi, including salmon, tuna, kingfish, abalone and some horsemeat – everything was fresh and delicious.

Steam yellow tail with monkfish liver (a delicacy!) in delicious delicate miso and soy flavours.

Steamed tile-fish and turnip:

Finally we get to the main dish, Japanese beef and vegetable roasted on a hot lava stone: the beef was delicious, melt in your mouth, tender and the veggies were fresh and crisp. It was incredible how quickly the lava stone heated up and then cooled again.

Finally a dessert of assorted yummies, most of which I couldn’t possibly eat – but there was an almond jelly which was really quite tasty.


After such a lovely meal, I realised I needed to learn more superlatives in Japanese appropriate to tell the staff how much I enjoyed the meal. My meagre vocabulary, ‘Arigatogozaimasu’ seemed completely insufficient and I had forgotten how to say ‘Gochisōsamadeshita!’ No doubt I will get better as they days go by.

After such a lovely dinner we had a short wander through the open areas of the ryokan and then back into the onsen. I could really get used to this.

After a lovely night’s sleep on firm futon beds, it was into the onsen again for another 20-30 minute soak before going to breakfast at 8am. Breakfast was another unbelievably beautiful and painstakingly prepared meal:

Breakfast was full of all good things – miso soup, grilled salmon, tamago, mushrooms, pickles, tuna, fruit! So much food…
I couldn’t believe we nearly finished the lot and just left the garnish. After that we went for a wee hunt around the ryokan and saw the little shrine and public area where there was complimentary tea, coffee, soft drink and snacks. Then of course it was back into the onsen bath for a final soak before packing up and checking out… I would highly recommend this as a destination in the area. Everything was simply lovely.

Detained isn’t the same as arrested

So… just to set the record straight in case Mr K doesn’t..!

“We’ve barely been in Japan for like, six hours and have been driving towards the Fuji area to our onsen for the night and Mr K’s just been pulled over by two policemen on motorbikes for illegally crossing a yellow line! I was using Google maps and giving him directions – and we both knew we needed to be in the right hand lane, which was fine. But then two policemen on motorbikes came up behind us with their lights on so naturally, Keith moved into the left hand lane to let them pass. And they just didn’t. They didn’t pass us. They just rode slow and all the traffic around and behind them slowed right down (speeding normally being a favourite pastime around here!). Mr K didn’t want to cut them off and our exit up came up really quickly on the right and we needed to move into the right hand lane – but by then the line in the middle of the road was a single solid yellow one and so we changed lanes because if we didn’t, we’d end up getting royally lost! So next thing you know, the cops have turned on their sirens and started yelling at us on a megaphone in Japanese and Keith had to find a place on a motorway to safely pull over!

Long story short – one of the cops was training the other one, and he’s probably never written an international ticket before, so we ended up at a local police station with Mr K getting a ¥6000 fine which literally took over an hour!” 🤣

Jail house selfie:

Work work work… off to Japan!

Things have been absolutely nightmarish half this year. Between the problems with my stupid knee, Mr K working six days a week, across three time zones, for literally months on end we really needed to find some down time.’

Back in February when Mr K was talking about the likelihood of his ending up in Saudi on his first work trip there; my knee was giving me so much pain there is no way I could have contemplated going with him. But I’m always up for an adventure to a somewhere new and he knew that as soon as he told me work was taking us to the Middle East… ever clever he decided to distract me with something shiny – in this case, flights to Japan. Well, I’m not stupid. I could totally see through his (rather transparent) attempt to distract me from the idea of going to Saudi with him… but you know – JAPAN! Who was I to complain? I’m not headed somewhere hot, sandy and potentially inhospitable to small blondes, when I now had a trip to the cultural, hot spring and amazing food wonderland that is JAPAN!

Anyway… may hours spent plotting and booking ensued, and by the end of April I had a very neat itinerary all squared away and November felt like it would never come. Five trips to Saudi for Keith, four to NZ for me, one to Perth, one to Hobart, a few to Melbourne (I forget how many exactly) and a handful of visits to Sydney and finally! Time to head to Japan.

Woo-hoo. Let the games begin. <3