Something a little different – Yale and I spent tonight in a large hotel rather than a small intimate ryokan. It’s a completely different experience, and yes, at a completely different price point! So I thought it would be interesting to make the comparison and see what your extra $250-300 a night gets you; roughly the difference in cost between this place, the Hotel Okada, and last two night’s ryokan accomodation rates.
With 117 rooms on 12 floors and a maximum occupancy of some 650 people, the ambiance of the hotel is nice, still very Japanese in the decor, but things are far less personal as soon as you arrive. Starting with what feels like a bit of haggling over somewhere to park.
The kumiko timber-work in the lobby makes for an impressive entrance. And straight away it feels strange not to have to take off my shoes… but I imagine keeping 600 people’s shoes straight would be a bit too much!
Yukata are available in foyer if you wish to borrow something other than what is provided in the rooms. Which is pretty handy if you are either, fuller figured like myself, or 6’9” like Yale. The check-in procedure was a little more involved too, I guess with so many people comes bureaucracy.
Our room for the evening was on the 4th floor, was a booking type, “SUISAI”; a Japanese/Western style room with open air bath… Yamabato (not sure what that means). I noticed the kumiko timber work touches are carrying on throughout the hotel.
The genkan (room foyer) was very clean and welcoming, with half a dozen pairs of slippers! I guess this is bookable as a family room, so more slippers the merrier.
Bags to take your things to the public onsen – which we definitely did not use, as this is a 100% not tattoo friendly facility. The hotel is very family oriented, and as such definitely, ‘NO TATTOOS!’
Our room had two western beds, a sofa, a Japanese tatami sitting area with another small couch and chair.
Large TV (which we never turn on because you can rarely even get the BBC World News in English in hotels here, and everything else is not just foreign but also strange and foreign). We have coffee and tea making facilities, small bar fridge and all the needful things.
I’m always pleased to find a range of glassware – so I can find something suitable to take my saké into the onsen with me without having to use teacups or resort to swigging from the bottle! We were also provided with pyjamas, bright and comfortable hanten coats, and some lovely navy yukatas.
The lighting and decor is very warm and comfortable… compared to many large western hotels which tend to feel like you’ve walked into a fucking IKEA – so I love this!
The sitting space is surrounded by large picture windows to allow for views of the mountain stream outside… I have over the recent years come to appreciate just how much Japanese domestic tourists value being able to feel as though they are ‘enveloped by nature’. Living in the large cities like Tokyo or Osaka and to a lesser degree Kyoto, it must be common for them to spend most of their lives in a the concrete jungle glitzed up with loads of neon and animated and noisy talking street lights, train barriers and even toilets! Seeking out gardens in Japanese cities takes time and effort, compared to Australian cities which are heavily designed with green spaces everywhere in both the inner cities and the suburbs. The Japanese have a keen appreciation and connection of being ‘in nature’ and find it calming and restorative to be surrounded by the changing seasons.
The bedroom is warm and Japanese, the toilet could be Danish! 🙂
The bathroom is also bright and modern with all the amenities you could possibly want. His and hers washcloths, lotions and potions, toothbrushes, hairbrushes, cotton buds, hair bands, razors and more.
The hairdryer looked like something from a sci-fi film! Which I am sure is impressive to the hairdryer obsessed Japanese vloggers! The showering/washing room was very nice too… bit warmer with timber and slate.
And of course, the piece de resistance! The open air bath… smashing! The design and lighting in this space is gorgeous! You can see straight into the tatami sitting area though, so if you had a family here, you might need to draw the curtains.
First things first, always barely unpack, have a shower and straight into the onsen… pure bliss! Hakone Mountain Road saké – not bad.
Dinner here is buffet style, which I imagine is where the price reduction is going to be evident. The Sky Lounge on the 7th Floor is where our allocated buffet dining is… the hotel is quite large and has more than one large dining room.
I didn’t want to take photos of people eating their meals or hovering around the buffet – so I plucked this image off the internet. Let’s just say this promotional image is doing some heavy lifting. The room was large, bright, noisy and not even remotely as orderly looking as this image implies.
Food choices were odd… there were lots of hot boxes, with various foods in them, but no vegetables available that weren’t sitting in stews? Which made a lot of the veggies look like my grandma boiled them, or they’re the leftover bits from Asian dishes after everyone came along and took the meat out! I did find some nigiri which was nice and fresh and the rice was lovely, but the rest of this, was all a bit hit and miss; temperature-wise nothing was quite right – hot foods a little too not hot, and I couldn’t find the right accompaniments to any dish. So dinner was a hasty affair.
After a very quick dinner (oh dear lord it was so noisy in there!), it was back to the onsen to relax.
Next morning we had moody mountains, a light drizzle and the rushing river below our window.
Breakfast was another noisy affair that I would have preferred to make avoidable if possible. I can understand the appeal of staying in a large hotel like this if you are bringing the family away for a weekend and were after a more affordable option, but seeing how far we have a travelled, I definitely prefer the smaller ryokans at this point.
And we exit through the gift shop…!
This is the view from the ryokan’s riverside restaurant on the first floor… just beautiful.
The menu is predominantly Kawadoko cuisine in this part of Japan (not entirely sure what that means, but I am writing it down so I can hunt for it later). The starters were as impressively presented as they were flavoursome – there was an umeshu aperitif, sakiwan golden soup, boiled rockfish, pork hachimanmaki, forest boar liver, and tengyo nanban (I need to look that one up too!). 
We were also served some tempura seasonal vegetables with wasabi salt – I never thought I was overly fond of tempura…. in Australia it tends to feel heavy in oil, and the one time we went for tempura in Asakusa with a Japanese friend, Amané, she took us to her favourite and she claimed ‘best’ tempura restaurant in Asakusa and I honestly didn’t like it that much. But the ryokan meals we have had have served tempura that is light and delicate and doesn’t taste like heavy deep fried food at all.
We discovered that Izu is really well known for their fresh wasabi – and we also discovered, when you grate your own wasabi and not using the squishy over processed stuff you see most places, it is more flavourful and less hot. Very nice.
Dashi broth heating for our rice set course – 
The rice set came with more red fish, sesame, miso pickles, nori, wasabi, and coriander (thank you so much for the heads up on the devil’s weed!), then of course you pour some broth on once you have loaded up your rice.
Ta-da! Super tasty. They gave us a large pot of rice and said to call if we wanted more rice – but after such a large meal, I nearly had more condiments than rice in my donburi. 
Thankfully, with these multi course kaiseki meals, the dessert/sweet courses are usually simple and small… I say ‘thankfully’ because many Japanese abhor waste when it comes to food and it is considered rude not to clean your plate – if you are at a buffet and choosing food for yourself, it is VERY rude to take more than you will eat.
Looking very relaxed and chilled there Mr K. 
Waking up to this in the morning is something I could really get used to.
I’m getting used to cooking with the chopsticks and have even mastered removing the fish bones from the morning’s grilled fish offerings, with my chopsticks. 
The miso soup here was excellent – one thing travelling around to so many different areas throughout the country is you rapidly learn that not all miso soup is made equal! Nor is all curry or all ramen. 
They all look great and super uncomfortable in their samue… I’m sure a bit of saké will dispel the discomfort quick smart. 
There was also a savoury egg custard made from tortoiseshell and yuzu paste (?), and some grilled swordfish with magnolia leaves, but I got busy with the cooking of the hot pot and failed on the photos. 🙂 Dessert again was lovely and light and simple: almond pudding, with orange and local melon.
An impromptu work meeting transpired over saké…
Less so as the night went on… 🙂 
≈
We had a quiet little garden villa at the back of the properly in a tucked away secluded little spot.
His and her yukata for the stay.
and his and her towels. The blue is for boys, and pink is for girls really is ubiquitous. 
Outside was a lovely deck overlooking a private garden. Not as established as some gardens but will be lovely in a few years as the plants mature. 
Dressing room:
Bathroom:
Snackage and drinks: 
Before scubbing off the road and into the onsen. It was a very warm 41C – which probably only felt warm because the ambient temp was closer to 20C than 10C this close to the coastline. The water really is crystal clear, and while not as soft as some others, was lovely and refreshing. 
After a couple of dips in the bath (in between getting some work done) it was time to go for dinner. Here was the menu for the evening, laid out in a lovely autumnal design:
Maguro sashimi – this was delicious. Lovely three different cuts of tuna of varying grades. <3 Big fan! 
Had to try the local saké of course – cute little saké jug.
Shimonita leek soup. 
Followed by a house speciality – deep fried tuna cheek. This was possibly the most flavourful cooked piece of tuna I’ve ever had in my life. I’m not super fond of tuna once it’s more than lightly seared, but this was fantastic.
Local fish with Chinese cabbage served with seaweed sauce.
Simmered Shrim Potatoes.
Marinated steak with malted rice paste.
It had a double dressing room, a double shower room and this lovely large onsen. Only we found it to be rather too well lit and took care of that pronto…much nicer without a spotlight overhead, and just the garden lights left on. 
Grilled Japanese horse mackerel with fish sausage and wasabi.
Tuna sashimi for breakfast! How decadent.
Tamago with pickled broth sauce.
When I was making arrangements for this trip back in April, I had originally intended to stay a couple of nights in a more Western style hotel closer to the old part of Takayama where the transport issues are – until I saw a Japanese video posted by someone who had stayed at this ryokan. It just looked amazing and I have been looking forward to it for six months. 
The entrance to the hotel is fairly unassuming – perfectly manicured gardens are ‘de rigeur’ here and seem quite common everywhere. 
But just on the other side of those shrubberies is a world all of its own… a large koi pond featuring equally large koi. A cute little walkway over the pond which leads to and onsen foot bath (fresh hot mineral waters piped into a knee deep bath where you can remove your socks and shoes and soak your weary feets). 
An outdoor lounging area that wasn’t seeing much use given it was max temps of 10-11C while we were here and lows of 4C and 2C overnight.
We were welcomed by a lovely young lady named Kyaka, who checked us in, brought us some drinks, hot towels and showed us through the quiet and dimly lit hallway to our room.
The decor was very traditional, except for the slightly elevated futon beds. In the room waiting for us was some snacks, and green tea and an explanation of where to find things in the room – yukata and jinbei (Japanese style pyjamas) to wear, a bunch of amenities for us, and an opportunity to specify what time we would like to have dinner and breakfast etc. 
The bathroom was neat and all panelled in fresh cypress – it smelled amazing! 
But the best bit… omg! So excited – was the stonking huge granite onsen bath in our own private garden. <3 I couldn’t wait for Kyaka to finish her introduction so we could have a shower, scrub up and then slide into this amazingly beautiful bath in this cute little garden space. 
The bath was a steady 40-41C and was just bliss. The water at this particular onsen comes from 1200 feet below ground and is particularly high in minerals which make the water so soft it feels kinda slippery… it was so steamy as the ambient temperature was only about 8C or so.
In what is now become quite our usual habit, we shared some saké acquired on our way to the ryokan and had a good soak. Love it!
The ryokan has some lovely open spaces that guests can use if they wish, but we hardly saw anyone – in fact with the private onsen in our little garden, and having a meal in a private dining room, we could swear for most of our visit that there was hardly anyone else staying at the inn. The only give away was the shoes all lined up in the morning as people were getting ready to check out or go to town for the day. There are no shoes worn on the tatami mats here, only tabi socks. Even the staff are silently walking up and down the hallways in socks.
Dinner was a multiple course kaiseki meal – starters consisted of:
Matsutake mushroom soup with shrimp, pike and eel.
Sashimi – roasted Hida beef with plum flavoured onion sauce. 
Sashimi – amberjack and mackerel.
Local saké. 
Steam turnip with mushrooms and lily root, stuffed with ginkgo nut.
Hida beef steak with vegetables.
Grilled freshwater sweetfish stuffed with roe.
Whipped pumpkin topped with abalone.
Local steamed rice, miso soup with mushrooms, tofu and pickles.
Sweet potato cake and seasonal fruits… I love the little maples leaves they are decorating our meals with seeing as it is autumn. You just know someone in the kitchen is tasked with finding the prettiest leaves for the job.
After such an amazing meal, we let our dinner settle and then it was back into the onsen again… I could really get used to this. You can just feel the tension draining away from all your muscles, and even though the air temperature was quite cold, the water was so inviting that you barely noticed it.
Breakfast was another lavish affair of itty bitty dishes filled with very tasty things!
The menu was rather more casual for breakfast, which was excellent. 🙂 
When we returned from doing transport stuff in the city, I had an opportunity to pop into the ladies public onsen in the hotel. Not all rooms here have a private bath like we have booked and there is a men’s and ladies onsen baths that swap over day to day so you can try the different bathing spaces. There were dressing tables for about six people, all full of amenities – soaps, lotions, shampoos, conditioners etc. 
A space for dressing and changing and to store your clothing while you bathed.
A post-onsen relaxation space where you could have complimentary cold beverages and even try out a massage chair.
And, as the onsen was unoccupied I was able to take a photograph of the baths here. The Japanese are very ritualistic about their baths – which I love, but one of their customs is that tattooed peoples re not allowed in public onsens. Some ryokan will make exceptions for their Western guests (as we are highly unlikely to be connected to local organised crime gangs) but others are very strict and ask you to cover your ink. I have no idea what the policy is here – I didn’t ask… but it was the primarily motivator for booking a room with a private bath. That and bathing with strange people who you don’t share a common language with gets pretty boring pretty fast. 
So we didn’t make use of the public onsen and made use of our private garden bath again! I’m so enamoured of this little garden oasis – I took so many photos. 
Oh more saké before dinner? Don’t mind if I do!
Prior to arriving I had requested the special Hida beef kaiseki meal on our second night. It was at a small additional cost, but given Gifu is so famous for their Hida beef, we felt it would be worth it. Kyaka kept referring to it as the ‘Too Much Beef Dinner’, which we thought was cute.
A rare selfie taken in our private dining room… the ‘glow’ is the saké, of course. 😛
Hida beef steak
