Sarajevo

Up bright and early from the trip from Belgrade to Sarajevo – the theory being that the sooner we get to the borders (to be processed out of Serbia and then processed into Bosnia) the better. Simon is watching live webcams of the state of the borders on his phone, and he tells us it’s not busy yet.

But all good plans of mice and men are gang aft aglae! We don’t get far out of Belgrade and we run into a wee SNAFU… I say ‘wee’ but it’s gonna fuck up our entire schedule. The cops are pulling over tour buses and going over the driver’s logs to see if they’ve been working more than their regulated hours. Trucks and other commercial vehicles are going past us, but they’ve pulled up three tour buses. At this stage, it’s feeling like the 90s again and we’re going to be pumped for a bribe. But we wait and see… and we wait and see. Poor Chris, our driver, has had to print out a month of driving logs for scrutiny. Next thing we know, Chris is being taken over to the cop cars, we are all asking Simon, how much of a bribe are we going to have to come up with. I’m writing this while looking at the cops outside the bus all standing around looking for problems. And unfortunately they find one!

Chris has recently been on two weeks leave (part of the months worth of records the copy’s wanted) which clearly show the vehicle wasn’t being driven during that time, but it does however show he is logged into he bush – his ID card was in the bus while he is on vacation and that is a no-no. He’s supposed to remove his card when he’s not driving so that no one else can use his log in. No amount of Chris telling them he owns the bus and no one but him drives it is helping and the next thing we know he’s being driven off in the back of the cop car to go to an ATM to pay a fine for leaving his card logged into the bus!

FFS guys, can’t we just pay a bribe and be on our way like the other two buses. Simon literally just said to us all, ‘The other two buses, they were lucky, they just pay a bribe and keep going.’ But no, they had to find something. Eventually he comes back and we are back on our way to the Serbian/Bosnian border.Holy shit! The hilarity doesn’t end there! We are barely 15 minutes down the road in another small town and a cop comes out to the bus while we are stopped at a light and tried to pull the bus over again – Chris argues with him, shows him his fine and the receipt – the cop looks pissed off and dismissively waves us on our way! I’m chatting with BigSal while this is unfolding and she hits me right in the flashbacks to ’95 with this one: “All you need is a Susan the Fruit to talk about how interactions with local law enforcement are good because it’s immersive and you can learn so much about the culture you wouldn’t have seen otherwise!” Laughed out loud at that one.

‘Serbia’s finest.’ Simon says dryly as we once more get back on the road. They must have been in the middle of some sort of ‘harass the tourist bus drivers’ week – and now we are well over an hour delayed for heading to Bosnia.

Passing through Sedmica – a town known for it’s gorgeous blue river with water that is a constant 6-7°C no matter what time of year it is. The country side is pretty enough though. Lots of old buildings, some not so old, all equally full of bullet holes and damage though. Eventually we get to the centre of Sarajevo and this bullet riddled, damaged building is where we pull up the bus for a meeting point. :/ Like many other cities, Sarajevo is a divided town, the Old Town which is full of ancient and medieval buildings, churches, cathedrals, synagogues etc and the other side of the river is the New Town, full of corrupt building projects that locals can’t afford to live in – this seems to be a theme – Belgrade has plenty of these project areas too. This beautiful building is a reconstruction of the original library that was on this site in the Old Town – it was badly damaged during the war and while they have been able to rebuild the library as it once was, many of the ancient and medieval texts it housed were lost forever. The Old Town is full of little winding alleyways on cobblestone streets, it’s like a mixture of Turkish bazaar, and Moroccan kasbah having neither flavour of it’s own nor enough characteristics of either??? (That made sense in my head even if it doesn’t to any other reader!). Bosnian’s are mad for their coffee apparently and white they are adamant they make it a special way that is nothing like the Turkish way of making coffee …. to the untrained eye (ie: mine), it looks exactly like the Turkish way of making coffee! This is the Sebilj Fountain – it was built in the Ottoman style in 1753. It’s one of those legendary fountains that people believe if you drink from this fountain you will return to Sarajevo someday – I guess we are all going to be one time visitors because none of us are drinking anything that isn’t coming out of sealed plastic bottles atm!This was the oldest inn in Sarajevo, it used to be a stop for visitors travelling with their horses, and now the courtyard where visitors would be received is now a thriving restaurant and the stables which lined the courtyard are now shops.You can see the huge wooden beams that made up the stable roofs.I’m also in an intense love/hate relationship with cobblestones this trip thanks to the fibromyalgia I was diagnosed with in 2019… my feet are fucking killing me ALL THE TIME, let alone with the uneven surfaces. The hours on the bus are also not helping and each time we get off the bus, I feel like I’m getting off a long haul flight with slightly swollen feet… normal cobbles are bad enough, but these ones in this town are really just rocks planted in concrete worn smooth, so they’re proving extra fun.

In the middle of the old town is a Mosque, a Synagogue and a Catholic Church, we see here again the one-up-man-ship of each party trying to be superior to the other – part of it is about religion and yet weirdly not about religion at all. Some 70% of Serbians are not practicing any religion, but their religion defines their heritage and ethnicities in a way we just don’t’ really get back home. The Croats are Catholic and Orthodox, the Bosnians are Muslim and the Serbians lost as many as 80,000 of their Jewish during the Srebrinca Genocide (this is really contentious, a huge proportion of Bosnians would never use the term ‘genocide’ to describe what happened to the Jewish people in Serbia- but I don’t know what else it’s called when they’re rounded up into exterminated in mass graves). 😐

The result of this, being religious as a way of identifying your ethnicity while not really being a practicing religious person means that the Fazi Husrev-Beg mosque at the centre of the Old Town is very welcoming to everyone. There are still women’s sides and men’s side and shoes are off and scarves are on, but they are not so strict with their prayer times etc.

It’s a relatively simple mosque with one minaret and a single dome, and was built in the 1500s century. At the time it was built, a very forward thinking engineer/architect suggested they build a public toilet nearby by persuading the imams that they wouldn’t want their workers doing their business all over the ground where their beautiful mosque was going to be – and wouldn’t you know it, the public toilets they built are still there and in operation today, though I’m inclined to think the coin operated turnstiles are a more modern addition.

Ramadan feasting clock – this clock down’s show actual time as we know it – it is set to show when sundown occurs so people fasting know exactly when it’s okay to eat. This is a replica of the famous vehicle that the Archduke Ferdinand was in with his wife, Sofia when he was assassinated , triggering the WWI. Sounds like the entire plot was a bit of a clusterfuck and it was luck that the ragtag team of assassins managed to get anything right. A previous assassination attempt had failed and the various members of the untrained team were sitting around a coffee shop figuring out how they were going to kill him before they got in trouble with their handlers, when the Archduke’s driver took wrong turn and stopped them right in front of the coffee shop in question. One of the assassins opportunistically shot the Archduke, while another tried to immediately kill himself rather than being captured and chomped on an expired cyanide pill that just made him immediately ill, but didn’t kill him… he then ran away spewing his guts up and jumped off the nearby bridge which is barely 4m off the ground and doesn’t have much water in it, so he ended up being apprehended with two broken legs and sick from his failed suicide attempt. And yep, these stupid teenage pricks started a World War. The covered markets in the Old TownCompete with Bosnian Delight stores – not Turkish Delight, mind you, Bosnian… though stuffed if I can spot the difference. After thisThe Catholic Church in the centre of town, which is as big as they could make it in the space that it previously occupied. During the Balkans War (and Iknow this isn’t coming across very well in my pictures) the enemy armies that were attacking Sarajevo would take high positions on the hills around the town… you can see their elevated advantage from nearly every direction around the city. People coming in and out of the churches and shops were at a huge disadvantage trying to move about town to find supplies of water and food.Out front of this church is a pitted piece of concrete which shows the place where some children were killed by snipers. They continue to pain the pitted concrete to remind people of the horrors that happened here.Our guide, said his mother never let him leave the house as a small child in a red t-shirt because it was too easy a target for the snipers… fuck that! I wouldn’t’ have let my kid leave the house at all!

If we hadn’t been held up with the cops for so long this morning I would have possibly tried to go see this exhibit of the Srebrenica Genocide. It is something I am not particularly educated on, and I feel it’s important that people learn about these historical incidents and don’t forget the victims. After our quick (and I mean quick!) walking tour of Sarajevo we had some free time to go shopping, have a poke about and find some dinner. Simon recommended a small restaurant back near the library and instructed us all to try the Cevapi, pronounced ‘cheh-vah-pee’, (basically ‘minced meat fingers), that are served with a doughy pita bread, raw onions and yoghurt drinks. I’m always up for the local food, and they serve them in hands – literally five meat fingers or ten. I opted for a small serve and it was quite tasty – the recipe calls for 80% beef, 20% veal and some salt, so it’s just meat sausage without any skins. After this it was off to our hotel, on the way we saw many many more buildings that were showing signs of the snipers’ handiwork during the war. I don’t know enough about this war – I vaguely remember Milosovich being mentioned a lot in the news, but spending time with Simon hasn’t really cleared it up. With three wearing factions, sometimes each in ally-ship with each other and then spinning on a dime to suddenly be fighting with their former allies, it’s all very complicated. I’m not sure anyone won…

WashPo Article re: Civil War

‘They are preparing for war’: An expert on civil wars discusses where political extremists are taking this country

Barbara F. Walter, 57, is a political science professor at the University of California at San Diego and the author of “How Civil Wars Start: And How to Stop Them,” which was released in January. She lives in San Diego with her husband.


Having studied civil wars all over the world, and the conditions that give rise to them, you argue in your book, somewhat chillingly, that the United States is coming dangerously close to those conditions. Can you explain that?
So we actually know a lot about civil wars — how they start, how long they last, why they’re so hard to resolve, how you end them. And we know a lot because since 1946, there have been over 200 major armed conflicts. And for the last 30 years, people have been collecting a lot of data, analyzing the data, looking at patterns. I’ve been one of those people.
We went from thinking, even as late as the 1980s, that every one of these was unique. And the way people studied it is they would be a Somalia expert, a Yugoslavia expert, a Tajikistan expert. And everybody thought their case was unique and that you could draw no parallels. Then methods and computers got better, and people like me came and could collect data and analyze it. And what we saw is that there are lots of patterns at the macro level.
In 1994, the U.S. government put together this Political Instability Task Force. They were interested in trying to predict what countries around the world were going to become unstable, potentially fall apart, experience political violence and civil war.

Was that out of the State Department?
That was done through the CIA. And the task force was a mix of academics, experts on conflict, and data analysts. And basically what they wanted was: In all of your research, tell us what you think seems to be important. What should we be considering when we’re thinking about the lead-up to civil wars?
Originally the model included over 30 different factors, like poverty, income inequality, how diverse religiously or ethnically a country was. But only two factors came out again and again as highly predictive. And it wasn’t what people were expecting, even on the task force. We were surprised. The first was this variable called anocracy. There’s this nonprofit based in Virginia called the Center for Systemic Peace. And every year it measures all sorts of things related to the quality of the governments around the world. How autocratic or how democratic a country is. And it has this scale that goes from negative 10 to positive 10. Negative 10 is the most authoritarian, so think about North Korea, Saudi Arabia, Bahrain. Positive 10 are the most democratic. This, of course, is where you want to be. This would be Denmark, Switzerland, Canada. The U.S. was a positive 10 for many, many years. It’s no longer a positive 10. And then it has this middle zone between positive 5 and negative 5, which was you had features of both. If you’re a positive 5, you have more democratic features, but definitely have a few authoritarian elements. And, of course, if you’re negative 5, you have more authoritarian features and a few democratic elements. The U.S. was briefly downgraded to a 5 and is now an 8.
And what scholars found was that this anocracy variable was really predictive of a risk for civil war. That full democracies almost never have civil wars. Full autocracies rarely have civil wars. All of the instability and violence is happening in this middle zone. And there’s all sorts of theories why this middle zone is unstable, but one of the big ones is that these governments tend to be weaker. They’re transitioning to either actually becoming more democratic, and so some of the authoritarian features are loosening up. The military is giving up control. And so it’s easier to organize a challenge. Or, these are democracies that are backsliding, and there’s a sense that these governments are not that legitimate, people are unhappy with these governments. There’s infighting. There’s jockeying for power. And so they’re weak in their own ways. Anyway, that turned out to be highly predictive.

And then the second factor was whether populations in these partial democracies began to organize politically, not around ideology — so, not based on whether you’re a communist or not a communist, or you’re a liberal or a conservative — but where the parties themselves were based almost exclusively around identity: ethnic, religious or racial identity. The quintessential example of this is what happened in the former Yugoslavia.


So for you, personally, what was the moment the ideas began to connect, and you thought: Wait a minute, I see these patterns in my country right now?


My dad is from Germany. He was born in 1932 and lived through the war there, and he emigrated here in 1958. He had been a Republican his whole life, you know; we had the Reagan calendar in the kitchen every year.
And starting in early 2016, I would go home to visit, and my dad — he doesn’t agitate easily, but he was so agitated. All he wanted to do was talk about Trump and what he was seeing happening. He was really nervous. It was almost visceral — like, he was reliving the past. Every time I’d go home, he was just, like, “Please tell me Trump’s not going to win.” And I would tell him, “Dad, Trump is not going to win.” And he’s just, like, “I don’t believe you; I saw this once before. And I’m seeing it again, and the Republicans, they’re just falling in lockstep behind him.” He was so nervous.
I remember saying: “Dad, what’s really different about America today from Germany in the 1930s is that our democracy is really strong. Our institutions are strong. So, even if you had a Trump come into power, the institutions would hold strong.” Of course, then Trump won. We would have these conversations where my dad would draw all these parallels. The brownshirts and the attacks on the media and the attacks on education and on books. And he’s just, like, I’m seeing it. I’m seeing it all again here. And that’s really what shook me out of my complacency, that here was this man who is very well educated and astute, and he was shaking with fear. And I was like, Am I being naive to think that we’re different?

That’s when I started to follow the data. And then, watching what happened to the Republican Party really was the bigger surprise — that, wow, they’re doubling down on this almost white supremacist strategy. That’s a losing strategy in a democracy. So why would they do that? Okay, it’s worked for them since the ’60s and ’70s, but you can’t turn back demographics. And then I was like, Oh my gosh. The only way this is a winning strategy is if you begin to weaken the institutions; this is the pattern we see in other countries. And, as an American citizen I’m like, These two factors are emerging here, and people don’t know.
So I gave a talk at UCSD about this — and it was a complete bomb. Not only did it fall flat, but people were hostile. You know, How dare you say this? This is not going to happen. This is fearmongering. I remember leaving just really despondent, thinking: Wow, I was so naive to think that, if it’s true, and if it’s based on hard evidence, people will be receptive to it. You know, how do you get the message across if people don’t want to hear it? If they’re not ready for it.


I didn’t do a great job framing it initially, that when people think about civil war, they think about the first civil war. And in their mind, that’s what a second one would look like. And, of course, that’s not the case at all. So part of it was just helping people conceptualize what a 21st-century civil war against a really powerful government might look like.
After January 6th of last year, people were asking me, “Aren’t you horrified?” “Isn’t this terrible?” “What do you think?” And, first of all, I wasn’t surprised, right? People who study this, we’ve been seeing these groups have been around now for over 10 years. They’ve been growing. I know that they’re training. They’ve been in the shadows, but we know about them. I wasn’t surprised.

The biggest emotion was just relief, actually. It was just, Oh my gosh, this is a gift. Because it’s bringing it out into the public eye in the most obvious way. And the result has to be that we can’t deny or ignore that we have a problem. Because it’s right there before us. And what has been surprising, actually, is how hard the Republican Party has worked to continue to deny it and to create this smokescreen — and in many respects, how effective that’s been, at least among their supporters. Wow: Even the most public act of insurrection, probably a treasonous act that 10, 20 years ago would have just cut to the heart of every American, there are still real attempts to deny it. But it was a gift because it brought this cancer that those of us who have been studying it, have been watching it growing, it brought it out into the open.


Does it make you at all nervous when you think about the percentage of people who were at, say, January 6th who have some military or law enforcement connection?
Yes. The CIA also has a manual on insurgency. You can Google it and find it online. Most of it is not redacted. And it’s absolutely fascinating to read. It’s not a big manual. And it was written, I’m sure, to help the U.S. government identify very, very early stages of insurgency. So if something’s happening in the Philippines, or something’s happening in Indonesia. You know, what are signs that we should be looking out for?


And the manual talks about three stages. And the first stage is pre-insurgency. And that’s when you start to have groups beginning to mobilize around a particular grievance. And it’s oftentimes just a handful of individuals who are just deeply unhappy about something. And they begin to articulate those grievances. And they begin to try to grow their membership.

The second stage is called the incipient conflict stage. And that’s when these groups begin to build a military arm. Usually a militia. And they’d start to obtain weapons, and they’d start to get training. And they’ll start to recruit from the ex-military or military and from law enforcement. Or they’ll actually — if there’s a volunteer army, they’ll have members of theirs join the military in order to get not just the training, but also to gather intelligence.
And, again, when the CIA put together this manual, it’s about what they have observed in their experience in the field in other countries. And as you’re reading this, it’s just shocking the parallels. And the second stage, you start to have a few isolated attacks. And in the manual, it says, really the danger in this stage is that governments and citizens aren’t aware that this is happening. And so when an attack occurs, it’s usually just dismissed as an isolated incident, and people are not connecting the dots yet. And because they’re not connecting the dots, the movement is allowed to grow until you have open insurgency, when you start to have a series of consistent attacks, and it becomes impossible to ignore.


And so, again, this is part of the process you see across the board, where the organizers of insurgencies understand that they need to gain experienced soldiers relatively quickly. And one way to do that is to recruit. Here in the United States, because we had a series of long wars in Afghanistan and Iraq and Syria, and now that we’ve withdrawn from them, we’ve had more than 20 years of returning soldiers with experience. And so this creates a ready-made subset of the population that you can recruit from.
What do you say to people who charge that this is all overblown, that civil war could never happen here in the United States — or that you’re being inflammatory and making things worse by putting corrosive ideas out there?

Oh, there’s so many things to say. One thing is that groups — we’ll call them violence entrepreneurs, the violent extremists who want to tear everything down and want to institute their own radical vision of society — they benefit from the element of surprise, right? They want people to be confused when violence starts happening. They want people to not understand what’s going on, to think that nobody’s in charge. Because then they can send their goons into the streets and convince people that they’re the ones in charge. Which is why when I would talk to people who lived through the start of the violence in Sarajevo or Baghdad or Kyiv, they all say that they were surprised. And they were surprised in part because they didn’t know what the warning signs were.


But also because people had a vested interest in distracting them or denying it so that when an attack happened, or when you had paramilitary troops sleeping in the hills outside of Sarajevo, they would make up stories. You know, “We’re just doing training missions.” Or “We’re just here to protect you. There’s nothing going on here. Don’t worry about this.”


I wish it were the case that by not talking about it we could prevent anything from happening. But the reality is, if we don’t talk about it, [violent extremists] are going to continue to organize, and they’re going to continue to train. There are definitely lots of groups on the far right who want war. They are preparing for war. And not talking about it does not make us safer.


What we’re heading toward is an insurgency, which is a form of a civil war. That is the 21st-century version of a civil war, especially in countries with powerful governments and powerful militaries, which is what the United States is. And it makes sense. An insurgency tends to be much more decentralized, often fought by multiple groups. Sometimes they’re actually competing with each other. Sometimes they coordinate their behavior. They use unconventional tactics. They target infrastructure. They target civilians. They use domestic terror and guerrilla warfare. Hit-and-run raids and bombs. We’ve already seen this in other countries with powerful militaries, right? The IRA took on the British government. Hamas has taken on the Israeli government. These are two of the most powerful militaries in the world. And they fought for decades. And in the case of Hamas I think we could see a third intifada. And they pursue a similar strategy.

Here it’s called leaderless resistance. And that method of how to defeat a powerful government like the United States is outlined in what people are calling the bible of the far right: “The Turner Diaries,” which is this fictitious account of a civil war against the U.S. government. It lays out how you do this. And one of the things it says is, Do not engage the U.S. military. You know, avoid it at all costs. Go directly to targets around the country that are difficult to defend and disperse yourselves so it’s hard for the government to identify you and infiltrate you and eliminate you entirely.
So, like with the [Charles Dickens’s] ghost of Christmas future, are these the things that will be or just that may be?


I can’t say when it’s going to happen. I think it’s really important for people to understand that countries that have these two factors, who get put on this watch list, have a little bit less than a 4 percent annual risk of civil war. That seems really small, but it’s not. It means that, every year that those two factors continue, the risk increases.
The analogy is smoking. If I started smoking today, my risk of dying of lung cancer or some smoking-related disease is very small. If I continue to smoke for the next 10, 20, 30, 40 years, my risk eventually of dying of something related to smoking is going to be very high if I don’t change my behavior. And so I think that’s one of the actually optimistic things: We know the warning signs. And we know that if we strengthen our democracy, and if the Republican Party decides it’s no longer going to be an ethnic faction that’s trying to exclude everybody else, then our risk of civil war will disappear. We know that. And we have time to do it. But you have to know those warning signs in order to feel an impetus to change them.
This interview has been edited and condensed.

KK Ottesen is a regular contributor to the magazine.

Democracy Dies in Darkness

Hiroshima

Mr K and I have Japan Rail Passes for this week because we knew we were going to be heading out of Osaka a fair bit, so you can buy a pass which gives you unlimted travel for a certain duration… which sounds good in theory, but it also means if you want to reserve a seat, you can’t just book it online to your rail pass, you need to go to a ticket office at a Shinkansen station and have someone do it for you in person.  When we were in Tokyo, Mr K wanted to book seats in a reserved carriage for today’s day trip to Hiroshima and the customer service lady said, ‘You’ll be ok you won’t need to book there are plenty of unreserved carriages’, but as we learnt on our transit from Yokohama to Osaka, those handful of unresreved carriages can end up like sardine tins and this little black duck is not even remotely physically capable of standing for a two our rail journey on a bullet train.

So we turn up this morning bright and early and pop in to the ticket office on the off chance there might be some available seating on the trains to Hiroshima to see that the next half a dozen trains between 0900 and 1100 are fully booked except of course the first in first served, first three unreserved carriages. So off we go and line up to get on one of those. 
Only the trains are coming from Tokyo and are well and truly full by the time we get on, and we end up having to jump on and stand in the aisle thinking we should be able to get a seat when people get off in Kobe, about 10 mins down the track…. but what actually happens is that hardly anyone gets off in Kobe and I end up standing on the bullet train for nearly an hour.  I’m standing there in ever increasing pain thinking over and over, ‘I’m so fucked. I’m so fucked. My back. Argh. Shit. Maybe I should just sit on the damned floor, emergency hazards be damned. Breathe, breathe. I’ll just squat for a bit and that’ll relieve the tension on my lower back. Maybe I should try something in Google Translate and see if I can ask someone to offer me a seat. I’m so fucked. I’m so fucked. Breathe, breathe, breathe…’ and so on and so forth. It’s really hard to advocate for yourself in situations like these when you look like you have nothing wrong with you!

One of my biggest problems, when my pain is arcing right up, is my habit of not breathing… It’s like when you kick your toe and you go ‘Shit!’ and then you take a sharp intake of breath and you kinda hold your breath against the pain…  Yep, like that. But for as long as the pain refuses to abate – and it just does not.  Which leads to lightheadedness, perspiration not associated with ambient temperature, dizziness, and eventually fainting and/or nausea.  So I was getting pretty damn desperate by the time people got off in Okiyama and I finally managed to get a seat.  We had a big day ahead and I was feeling totally screwed by the time we got there  🙁

We eventually arrived at our destination.  While Mr K went to the ticket office to try and book us some seats on a train for the return trip in an attempt to avoid this same drama re-occurring on the way, I wandered outside and saw these beautiful and very western European statues – I have no idea what they were celebrating/commemorating, as the plaques nearby were not in English and the Googles have failed me.  Still rather lovely, and Mr K had some moderate success and managed to secure a single seat on the 1722 train back to Osaka in a reserved carriage which immediately removed a huge pile of impending stress!

Our first stop was to Hiroshima Castle…

Originally built on a low lying delta, Hiroshima Castle, was the home of Mōri Terumoto, the daimyō (feudal lord) of Hiroshima region. The castle was constructed in the 1590s, but was destroyed by the atomic bombing that occurred on August 6, 1945. The castel was rebuilt in the 1950s with a complete replica of the original, which now houses a museum of Hiroshima’s history prior to WWII.

Being a low lying area, the moats were not as steep or as impressive as the Osaka castle defences… originally the castle had a three concentric moats, the outer of which had a much higher in water level – it was built such that they could destroy the very outer moat wall easily and flood any enemy camp that might be holding the castle under siege.  Now the two outer moat areas have been filled in and overtaken with urban developments.
The Castle houses an extensive collection of pre-Reformation era displays – swords, armour, household objects and historical items, however, photography is prohibited and there is no English guidebooks, so I can not share most of what we saw inside. Some reconstructed rooms as they would have been in the late 1500s when the Mōri family ruled the castle. The views from the top of the castle are quite impressive – you can imagine how the advantage gained as the countryside was largely flat.

On the Castel grounds is the Hiroshima Gokoku Jinja is a Japanese Shinto Shrine.  Today is a special day – the Emperor of Japan is abdicating in favour of his eldest son and with his abdication begins a new era, and the people are out in a celebratory mood and paying their respects at the various temples located around Japan.

There was an inordinately long line to visit the temple, people were paying their respects or paying homage to crying babies or something? I couldn’t quite figure it out. There seemed to be a lot of grandparents about holding small children who were uncharacteristically for Japanese children… crying very loudly!

The queue to spend 30 seconds or some at the temple was inordinately long. Then I saw this sign and realised it was actually something to do with crying babies… but it didn’t make a whole lot more sense. Eventually I found some information in English that read:

“Crying Sumo – The rule of it is the baby win who cry first.
Baby is a treasure for them family, local and country.  As the proverb goes say “A crying baby usually prospers”.  According to medical science, crying is important efficacious for baby.  It develops them cardiopulmonary function, they grow up in good health.  Tradition says that baby’s energetic crying voice lay a ghost since ancient times, baby’s crying voice exorcise evil spirits and incur good luck.  It’s the religious services what exorcising evil spirits and incur good luck for baby’s healthy growing by divine protection.”

So now, I’m thinking all those parents and grandparents were going around pinching these babies to make them cry!

Nearby was the Carp Temple which wasn’t as busy as the main shrine.
Here is where you can find the famous statue of a Carp Swimming up a Waterfall. Hiroshima castle is also often called Carp Castle.  The statue symbolises the following types of good luck:
Success with a difficult challenge
Achieving a goal
Good luck and success in business.

These two Carp Swimming Up in Harmony symbolise these kinds of good luck:
Family well being
Happy marriage
Fulfilment in love

So you should ‘please make a wish and touch this statue’.  All of which seems a bit whimsical and nonsensical but far more benign compared to other world religions. Votive plaques where visitors have written out their wishes for the future after visiting the shrine. Close by is one of four known ‘atomic trees’, this one a pussy willow that survived the atomic blast in 1945.  It is located 740m from the epicentre of the blast.  It is quite remarkable that any trees remained given the buildings were completely flattened. The castle complex directly after the atomic bomb was dropped on August 6th, 1945… image (in a rather circuitous route) via the United States National Archives via japanairraids.org
The outer keeps.
After we left the Castle complex we stopped momentarily at the Hiroshima Museum of Art, and were contemplating going in, but it turns out this museum was full of European artworks, so we merely stopped for a cup of Elderflower soda and some sake cake before moving on.

The Orizuru tower.  Which is dedicated to those who lost their lives in WWII. Outwardly it is quite a spectacular building – this lovely crane design houses a growing art installation… visitors can go up to the top floor (for a fee) and create or buy a paper crane and drop it into the glass void so that it floats down and joins the thousands of other cranes left by other visitors.  Located directly across the road from the Hiroshima Peace Dome it, unfortunately, feels more like a tourist trap than a monument or place of dedication to the horrific loss of human life that occurred here.
The Hiroshima Peace Memorial was originally the Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall, and now commonly is more commonly known as the Genbaku Dome or the Atomic Bomb Dome.  It is part of the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park which was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996. The ruin of the hall is a standing reminder to visitors of the people who were killed here in the atomic bombing of Hiroshima which precipitated the end of WWII. Over 70,000 people are reported to have been killed immediately and an another estimated 70,000 suffered fatal injuries from the radiation fallout.
This small monument beside an ordinary apartment building marks the epicentre of the blast.  The bomb was detonated 600m above the ground and the ensuing blast saw temperatures of 3000-4000C at ground level. The Hiroshima bombing on 6th August 1945 which killed 70,000 did not see Japan immediately surrender their position in the war, causing the US forces to drop more atomic bombs in Nagasaki (where the Mitsubishi shipbuilding yards were located) on 9th August 1945 which killed up to an estimated 246,000 people, at which point Japan capitulated.
Two aerial photos of atomic bomb mushroom clouds, over Hiroshima (left) and Nagasaki (right) in 1945.

Further into the Peace Park is the Children’s Monument for peace. It was built to commemorate a little girl named Sadako Sasaki and the thousands of unknown child victims of the atomic bombing. Sadako Sasaki, was a young girl who was exposed to radiation at the time of the atomic bomb at age 2, and died from leukaemia at age 12.
Children from all over Japan engage in making origami peace cranes and sending them to Nagasaki and Hiroshima.  It is a mission/endeavour designed to remind people of the necessity for peace and to commemorate the loss of life in WWII. Further down into the Peace Park is an eternal flame… not very visible in this image.

The long mall leads onto the Hiroshima Atomic Bombing museum – unfortunately, (or fortunately, depending on how you look at it) the main buildings that house the museum displays are closed and undergoing earthquake preparedness reconstruction, so the many visitors that were in the park today were lined up to see half the collection and the line stretched for night on half a kilometer.  We decided we would very likely be coming back to Hiroshima one day and would like to see the collection in full.

There is obviously much, much more to the history of Hiroshima and the devastation this city experienced.  I think we all have an obligation to know and understand how these things impacted on their contemporary populations – if for no other reason than to stop the incessant posing for smiling selfies in these solemn places of commemoration.  I have seen it at Gallipoli, the Jewish memorial in Berlin and even at Auschwitz… people are ignorant, and I don’t understand how they can repeatedly pose, fixing their hair or makeup, with their best pouty winky faces, at a site where 70,000 people were killed in an atrocious act of war.  :'(

It was nearly 1600 now and we only just realised we hadn’t had anything to eat since 0700, so we head back to Shin-Hiroshima and went looking for something to eat.  One thing we noticed almost as soon as we got to Hiroshima was that okonomiyaki was king here!  There were more okonomiyaki restaurants than you could possibly count.  Some of which were mysteriously empty…?  And some of which had queues out the door.  We chose one with a short queue, but which had a substantial queue by the time we left.
Shrimp and calamari Hiroshima style (soba noodles added) okonomiyaki.  Very tasty and very filling.  I couldn’t finish it, which no doubt pleased Mr K enormously. While waiting in line at the 7/11 to buy some sake for the train ride, I saw this… Jump onto xe.com and check out the exchange rate, and weep a little.  These are shitty convenience store at the train station prices too!  We pay so much tax on alcohol in Australia. Also at the shopping centre near the train station – Hokkaido style cheese tarts with a local hint of Hiroshima lemony goodness!  A special treat that I felt was well deserved after standing on the train this morning and walking over 12.5kms today on hard concrete pathways.
Then it was back onto the Shinkansen to head back to Osaka.  We needed have worried about reserving me a seat, as it happens the trains heading back the other way were all largely empty, but I was eternally grateful that I had been carrying the knowledge around all day that I would not be tortured for hours by being forced to stand on the train ride back to Osaka.

When we got back to Osaka we went looking for the Hanshin Tigers merchandise store so Mr K could find himself a baseball cap from one of Japan’s premier baseball teams, and I found myself walking through a wine tasting wonderland.  There were hundreds of people in here with so much wine from all over the world to try.  People were working hard to shove wine at us, and I was so disappointed that there was not a single bottle of sake in sight!

A couple of the vendors were asking me if I wanted to try any wines, but they rapidly gave up after hearing I was Australian… I have a feeling the event was designed for promotion, education and sales of international wines, and they probably assumed that flogging wine to travelling Australians might be a waste of time and effort. We eventually got back to our Hotel Samurai at about 9pm…?  Ever such a long day and I was in soooo much pain.  Thank you past me for the suite I booked came that complete with hot tub!  So far, each evening has ended in a soak with sake.  Tomorrow is another day – and likely one that won’t have an early start!

Cruise Papua New Guinea – Alotau

We had two lovely sea days before arriving at our first port – Alotau.  Alotau is the capital of the Milne Bay Province in the South-East of Papua New Guinea.  We didn’t know quite what we were going to do here, as there were limited ship tours (and they were crazy expensive, even compared to what I had recently been paying in Scandinavia! Like, $150 for half day tours, no thanks), and we arrived late due to having left Brisbane a few hours late, and having to sail close to the Qld coast in order to have a passenger medi-vac’d off the ship just east of Cairns.Alotau dancer - girl Alotau dancers - dock Alotau dancer - boy Alotau Dancers - PNG

We were greeted by colourful locals dressed in traditional clothing, singing and dancing on the dockside – thankfully inside a warehouse out of the heat for them, and we decided we would walk the 20 minutes into town which would take us past the Australia War Memorial which was erected to commemorate the Battle of Milne Bay – which my grandfather fought in, in August 1942.  I have written previously about my Poppa’s involvement in PNG as part of the 25th Battalion and later as part of ANGAU, so I was quite keen to see this memorial.

It was a hot 20 minutes walk to town and we were being stared at – a lot – by the locals who seemed to have nothing better to do than sit around under trees (rather sensibly considering the somewhat uncomfortable heat) and chew beytelnut, occasionally stopping to spit globs of red beytelnut juice all over the dirt…

The memorial is a stark black granite upright marker, with ‘Battle of Milne Bay’ inscribed on it, set in a beautiful park right near the centre of town.  Surrounding it were plaques describing how the Japanese Imperial Army had invaded on 25th August 1942 and In just two landings a few days apart, they had established a 2,400-strong army near Ahioma. Unlike other engagements in the Pacific (like Kokoda) the Battle would be over in just 12 days.Milne Bay War Memorial

The Japanese fought with the Allies and their base suffered early casualties from an RAAF aircraft-led attack. During the evenings of the 26th and 27th August, the Japanese forces attacked, causing the Australian battalions to withdraw to the Gama River. Pressing their advantage, the Japanese continued to attack pushing the Allies further back to the converted No 3 airstrip, amid furious fighting.

Several times the Japanese charged across the open airfield to be greeted by a hail of fire and were repulsed each time. The battle had turned as the Australians had been reinforced, causing the attackers to become the defenders. The Australians launched counter attacks, and the Japanese sent warships to help their unexpectedly routed troops. A week later the Japanese Navy called off their invasion and started to evacuate. It is estimated that 750 Japanese and 161 Australians were killed at Milne Bay; but many more were wounded.

In the larger picture of the Pacific war, it was not a major victory in itself. The significance of the Battle of Milne Bay lay in being the first Allied land victory in the Pacific, which boosted morale considerably, not just in Milne Bay, but for all the Allied forces fighting in the region.  Personally, it felt rather strange to see my grandfather’s recollections of Milne Bay recounted on these plaques – I discovered the name of the US Major General that my grandfather had been curt with; Major General Clowes – not spelled “Cloughs” as I had assumed, which probably explains why, when I went looking for him – I found nothing!

After we went to the memorial, we went for a bit of a wander through the market areas.  It seems that these markets were the local markets – produce, food stuffs, not a lot of local crafts etc, and around the back (in an area, we probably shouldn’t have wandered into) plenty of beytelnut and ‘coral lime’ for sale in little baggies that looked decidedly like bags of coke or heroin!  Yeah, we were not in the right part of town for a bit there.

I found the centre of town to be a bit depressing, there were locals everywhere not really engaged in work or commerce, and other than the booming shuttle bus and taxi boon that occurs when a cruise ship is in port, the shops and services in the area looked worn out and downtrodden in a very Noumea kinda way.  It’s possible that more tourists coming to town will provide employment opportunities, but then again, it is equally possible that more tourists coming to town will further smoosh the local culture.
Alotau beytelnut chewing
On a practical note – there are buses running into town from the docks costing 5K each, but we found that a taxi coming back from town back to the ship cost the four of us only 5K in total… I paid him 10K.  It was so hot.

Cruise Papua New Guinea

School holidays were upon us, and I thought I’d look for a holiday for me and the Not-So-Small-Child to go and spend 7 nights at a beach somewhere – preferably with decent snorkelling to be had.  So I started looking at options like Airlie Beach, Magnetic Island, Lady Elliot, Tangalooma and was appalled by the prices… even for shoulder season.  $200 a night, not including transport, transfers, or food?  Meh.  So I did what I usually do and went looking at cruises to see if there was anything good going to the South Pacific Islands – figured a short loop around Vanuatu and New Caledonia or Fiji might be nice, but instead found ourselves looking at 10 days to Papua New Guinea.  Friends of ours were already booked to go and I found a great last minute price, so we decided, ‘Why not?’  Papua New Guinea it is.

papua new guinea cruise itineraryI had no idea what to expect and for a change, the various cruise forums that I lurk on and help administer were a little vague on the details.  P&O seem to have been going to PNG for a while now, but it’s a relatively new itinerary for Princess and there seemed to be scant little info available.  I have some friends who went last year (with P&O) but they honestly weren’t much help… said, ‘there’s not much to do, we just went to the beach’.  So I guess they weren’t really interested in any of the WWII history or cultural and anthropological experiences that these islands have to offer.  I mean, culturally, this area is where the trail blazing anthropologist, Malinovski found his famous (and somewhat scandalous), free loving, Trobriand Islanders.  This Milne Bay Province is where the Japanese suffered their first defeat at the hands of Australian ‘chocco’ soldiers in WWII as they engulfed the Pacific, like a plague of locusts.  So, I was pretty confident we would find plenty things to do – as well as going to the beach to do some snorkelling!

There were a few things different about cruising to PNG compared to the other island that I guess would be useful to anyone who was considering doing this trip – the first being that a photocopy of you passport is required on boarding along with a PNG entry visa form, and these have to be stapled together before checking in.  The reason I mentioned this, is we were being checked before entering the port terminal to make sure we had all these documents (this caused a line up), then being given our usual health questionnaires (which also causes a line up), and then being stopped by yet another port/terminal employee who was stapling our passport photocopy page onto the PNG entry visa form page (causing yet another line up)…  If we had been instructed to staple the two documents together (passport page on front of visa entry page), perhaps we wouldn’t have had to line up so many times and it would only have been checked and stapled at one point.  They created about three bottleneck points by not telling us what they needed in advance.  So much for priority boarding huh?!