Aachen was I think originally a spa town? It is mostly known now for the stunning Aachen Cathedral and its Domschatzkammer (treasury). I’ve wanted to see both for years now, so was glad of the opportunity to break up our drive to Cologne with a stop through Aachen.
On first inspection, the cathedral looks pretty ‘normal’ on the outside, but the interior is unlike any other medieval cathedral in central Europe.
Charlemagne began the construction of Aachen Cathedral in approximately 796 AD. The design and construction is credited to Carolingian architect Odo of Metz. The date it was finished isn’t exactly known, but it was consecrated by Pope Leo III in 805 AD. Charlemagne was buried in the chapel in 814. The chapel has a storied history of pilgrims, and damage… including significant damage during a Viking raid in 881 and subsequent restoration in 983AD.
The Aachen Pilgrimage is one of the great Christian pilgrimages – comparable to those of Jerusalem, Rome and the Santiago de Compostela. Four significant relics are believed to reside in the Aachen Cathedral, which ave drawn pilgrims since 1239AD… including, the swaddling cloths of the baby Jesus, the loincloth of Jesus, a dress worn by the Virgin Mary and the decapitation cloth of John the Baptist! That’ll get them medieval tourists a running!
The mosaic ceilings in here are incredible!
During World War II, Aachen and the cathedral were heavily damaged by allied bombing attacks and artillery fire. Thankfully most of the cathedral’s artistic objects had been removed for more secure storage during the war, and the underlying basic structure of the building survived the bombings. Large parts of the 14thC choir hall and altar were destroyed beyond repair. A reconstruction effort was undertaken and over the next 30 years, an estimated modern day €40 million was spent to restore the cathedral.
The octagonal central nave of the cathedral was erected as the chapel of the nearby Palace of Aachen. It was built c. 796-805 and was modelled on other contemporary Byzantine style buildings – like the Little Hagia Sophia in (then) Constantinople. The design influence is very recognisable. The span and height of the Charlemagne’s chapel remained the largest of its kind in Northern Europe for over 200 years.
The intricate mosaics are simply breathtaking!
In the centre of the octagonal chapel hangs the Barbarossa Chandelier, which was made c. 1165-1170, on the order of Emperor Frederick I and his wife, Beatrice. The chandleries was a sacerdotal offering from these patrons in honour of Mary, Mother of God, and simultaneously represented a tribute to Charlemagne.
Looking up from the floor through the Barbarossa Chandelier…
This cathedral isn’t as large as many other grand cathedrals, but everywhere you look there is intricate mosaics and gorgeous designs adorning the walls, ceilings and even the floors. It’s visually quite arresting.
The Cathedral’s main chapel with its Golden Altar piece – known as the Pala D’Oro, which was built in 1020.
The golden Pala d’Ora today forms the antependium of the high altar and has 17 gold panels with reliefs completed using repoussé techniques. The centre has Christ as the centre of the world, and he is flanked by Mary and the Archangel Michael.
The Marienschrein (the Shrine of Mary) is the primary reliquary in the centre of the main chapel. It was bestowed upon the Cathedral around 1220 and consecrated in 1239. This is where we are told the objects believed to be ‘contact relics’, are housed – the swaddling clothes of the baby Jesus, the loincloth of Jesus, a dress of Mary’s and the decapitation cloth of John the Baptist. The Marieschrein is one of the most important goldsmith’s works of the 13thC and records indicate it became an object of great interest and pilgrimage almost immediately. The casket has been variously handled by many pilgrims, and used in many processions sustaining quite a bit of damage over the centuries… it was refurbished in 2000 and has been en vitrine ever since (bar a yearly inspection and cleaning).
The fabulously golden pulpit is called the ‘Ambon of Henry II’. It is in a shape built by Henry II, Holy Roman Emperor and is heavily decorated with antique bowls, ivory carvings, chess figures, reliefs of various evangelists. The ambon was moved from the octagon to its present place in 1414. It is considered a significant artwork of the Ottonian period. I love it when there are lots of information plaques about – you can learn so much, but it does make me wonder how much I’m missing at sites with less info.
So shiny! And stuffed full of large gems.
The Shrine of Charlemagne is located in the rear of the main cathedral. Ever since 1215 this shrine has held the mortal remains of Charlemagne (who karked it in, like, 814 and was canonised in 1165). The emperor’s bones are surrounded by depictions of 16 of his successors.
Everywhere you look there are beautiful motifs and decorations… pelican. 🙂
St Nicholas’ Chapel built c.1474 – it is two stories high and contains a large rosary window.
Stepping outside the cathedral, it takes a while for your eyes to adjust to the light – and also there’s a slight disbelief that this outwardly innocuous building could contain such amazing decorative arts. It’s somewhat surreal.
Around the corner (literally) is the Aachen Domschatzkammer – the Aachen Treasury, where all their lavish and famous artefacts are housed. The Aachen Cathedral Treasury houses one Europe’s most renowned church treasuries – a unique collection of precious works collected across the long history of Aachen Cathedral. There are objects from the late classical period, the Carolingian, Ottonian, Saturnian and high gothic periods.
Left: Charlemagne with a miniature of Our Lady of Aachen Cathedral, Rheinland, Aachen c.1460., oil on wood. With the rise of heraldry in the 12thC, Charlemagne is depicted wearing the heraldry of France and Germany, even though such devices would not have been in use during his lifetime.
Right: Charlemagne, by Wilhelm Schmitz, Aachen 1886, painted wood sculpture. Wearing Frankish clothing, a crown, orb and sword – this figure originally adorned the Altar of St Peter.
Charlemagne from the Ambon of Henry II, Master goldsmith Franz Anton Cremer, Aachen 1816/17. The relief is designed on a copperplate engraving from 1632 after the original Ottonian Ambon was damaged during French Occupation (1794-1814).
Vessel for Holy Water bearing designs of ecclesiastical and secular dignitaries. Ivory, precious stones and gilded silver, silver and bronze. West German/Lorraine, c.1000 with later handle added in 1863.
Golden Book Cover, depicting the Virgin Mary with Child and scenes from Jesus’ life. Ivory panel Byzantine, 10thC. Rhineland production – gold, precious stones, enamel, antique engraving, gems and ivory.
Winged Altarpice, with the Mass of St Gregory flanked by saints and the Virgin Mary and Child.
Central Shrine of oak, sculptures lime or poplar. Hildensheim, c.1525.
Cope brooch depicting patron saints Anthony and Mark. Gilded silver, pearls, precious stones, enamel.
Hans von Reutlingen, Aachen, prior to 1520.
Ostensories. Guilded copper.
Hans von Reutlingen, Aachen 16thC.
Reliquary, guilded silver and rock crystal. Hans von Reutlingen c. 1515.
Chalice and Paten. Silver-gilt and engraved. Aachen, 15thC.
Monstance, gilded silver, with diamants. Hans von Reutlingen, Aix-la-Chapelle c.1520.
Winged Altarpiece depicting a Passion of Christ.
Master of the Aachen Altar, Cologne, c.1515-1520. oil on oak.
Pouring Vessels – aquamantile in the shape of a lion. Cast bronze, Rhein-Meuse region, c. 1170-1180
Pouring vessel – aquamanile in the shape of a wreathed bust. Case bronze, gilded.
Aachen, c.1170-1180.
Altarpiece depicting the Crucifixion of Christ and a kneeling benefactor, Count of Sayn.
Master of the Legend of Georg, Cologne, c.1460.
Enamel panel with Christ in his Majesty. Guilded copper and enamel.
Meuse Region, c.1180, converted into a Cope Brooch with he addition of filigree work in 1870.
Crux Gremmata- Cross of Lothair.
Wooden core, gold, gilded silver, precious stones, pearls, enamel.
Rheinland – possibly Cologne? – last quarter of the 10thC. Pedestal added later c.1370-1399
Relief Panel with Jesus’ birth, baptism in the River Jordan. Ivory, Meuse region c.1100.
Chapel Reliquary with the Virgin Mary and child, Charlemagne and St Catherine.
Silver, mostly gilded, pearls, previous stones and enamel. Aachen mid 14thC.
Reliquary Bust of Charlemagne with Crown. Contains a piece of the skullcap of Charlemagne.
Partially gilded silver, precious stones, antique engraved gems, enamel crown.
Crown: Possibly Prague (?) prior to 1349.
Bust: Aachen, after 1349.
Chapel Reliquary with Christ together with the Saints John the Baptist and Stephanus.
Gilded silver, precious stones, enamel. Aachen c.1370-1390.
Arm Reliquary of Charlemagne – contains the ulna and radius from the right arm of Charlemagne.
gilded silver, enamel. Lyon, France, 1481.
Hunting Horn of Charlemagne – signalling horn.
Horn: Ivory, gilded silver. Egyptian 11thC.
Carrying Strap: velvet with stitched-on device. 14th & 17th additions.
Dagger – Hunting Knife of Charlemagne
Knife: pattern-welded irony, wooden handle with brass fittings. Anglo-Saxon/Scandinavian 8thC
Sheath: leather, gold, previous stones, glass, 11thC.
Reliquary Pendant – Pectoral Cross of Charlemagne.
Gilded silver, precious stones and pearls. Liege, Belgium, 12thC.
Lucas Madonna, pilgrims token – casting stone and cast. 17thC.
Proserpina Sarcophagus – depicting the abduction of Proserpina.
Marble, first quarter of the 3rdC AD.
Capps Leonie – Cope and Coronation Robe.
Silver velvet, silk, gold and silver thread. Gilded silver rosettes, 100 silver bells without clappers, pearls and precious stones. Location unknown, constructed prior to 1349, altered 1520.
Chasuble of Saint Bernard of Clairvaux – Priest’s Garment.
Blue silk, pearls, embroidery, gold/silver embroidery. Aachen c. 1170/80. Ground fabric renewed 17thC.
Cupboard Panels c.1881-1918. Oil on timber.
Left: Saint Victorious was a Roman military offical – depicted with a crown sceptre and imperial orb.
Centre: Saint Wenceslas (903-935) promoter of the church and consolidated Christianity in Bohemia.
Right: Saint Leonardus, lived c.500AD. Depicted as an abbot with a tonsure, chasuble and crosier.
Silk embroidery – Virgin of Mercy, depicting benefactors of Mary of Burgundy and Emperor Maximilian I of Austria. Silk, gold and silver embroidery on linen. Brussels before 1473.
Crown of Margaret of York. Glides silver, pearls, enamel, precious stones. England. C.1461.
Icon, Virgin Mary with Child. Tempura on wood. Andreas Ritzos, Crete, early 16thC.
Statuette Reliquary – Virgin Mary with Child, silver, partially gilded, amethyst. Aachen c.1280.
Cope Brooch, with the Annunciation to the Virgin Mary. Gilded silver. Aachen early 15thC.
Adoration of hate Child Jesus in the holiday night.
Lucas Cranach the Elder, c. 1520, oil/tempura on wood.
Cope Brooch with the Annunciaton to the Virgin Mary and the Saints Christoper and Cornelius and kneeling benefactor. Gilded silver, pearls and enamel. Aachen or Cologne – c.1360-1370.
Life of the Virgin Mary of Aachen – Eight panel paintings with depictions of the life of the Virgin Mary.
Master of the Life of the Virgin Mary of Aachen, Cologne, c. 1485. Oil on oak.
Ornamental Necklace.
Necklace: gilded silver, enamel, pearls. Pendant: gold, enamel. Paris or Burgundy, c.1400-1450.
Altar of Fralkenstein – winged altarpiece with Virgin Mary and Child, the saints Mathew, Erasmus, Mary of Egypt and on wings, benefactors Kuno and Werner of Kalkenstein being commended to Saints Peter and Paul. Tempera on canvas covered wood. Aachen, early 15thC.
Enthroned Virgin Mary with Child, wooden sculpture – oak with 19thC painting.
Rhine-Meuse region, early 14thC.
Reliquaries : rock crystal, precious sonnets, antique sardonyx, cut onyx, translucid enamel
All from Prague, c.1360
Left: Reliquary for a Girdle of Christ
Centre: Reliquary for a Girdle of the Virgin Mary
Right: Reliquary for the Scourge of Christ.
Disc Reliquary with relics and scenes of the Passion of Christ.
Gilded silver, pearls, rock crystal, precious stones, translucid enamel. Vienna c. 1340-1350.
Simeon Reliquary – Reliquary with the Presentaiton of Jesus at the Temple.
Gilded silver, precious stones, enamel, stone cuttings. Aachen, c.1330-1340.
Shring of Saint Spec – Relic Chest with relics of Saint Spes/Speus. Wooden chest, ivory, gilded copper, gilded silver. Southern Italy c.11th-12thC. Metal straps: Aachen, c.1165-1170.
Shrine of Saint Felix – relic chest with relics of St Felix.
Wood, silver, enamel. Italy, 11thC.
Reliquary of Saint Anastasius- Reliquary for the skull of Saint Anastasius.
Partially gilded silver, niello. Antioch, c.969-970.
Heraldic Chest of Richard of Cornwall – Wooden chest with 40 enamel medallions.
Cedar with red glaze, gilded copper and enamel medallions. Limoges, France, c.1258.
Chalices, gilded silver, filigree, corals. Hungary, 16thC.
Koormantelgespen – Cope brooches. Silver, gilded silver, and silver enamel. Hungary, before 1367.
Reliquary Chalices, gilded silver, filigree, corals. Hungary, 16thC.
Painting in gold work frame. Virgin Mary with Child in an Eastern Orthodox style.
Painting: Tempura on wood. Frame: Gilded silver, enamel and previous stones. Hungary, c.1367.
Wow, Aachen sure delivers on the fine medieval decorative art pieces. I loved every bit of it… yes, I am aware no one else is going to want to read through all this, but one day I’ll go back through it all.
