On our last trip to Japan, Mr K and I stayed in a gorgeous little ryokan in an onsen (hot spring) town just outside of Osaka. On this trip, we decided to stay in a few more traditional ryokan to absorb the culture, enjoy the amazing kaiseki meals and soak in the onsens. Given I’m a heathen tattooed type creature and tattoos still being somewhat taboo and publically unwelcome, where possible I have opted for accommodations with a private onsen in the room… yes, this means you are usually looking at the higher end of accommodation options – as they don’t seem to put private onsen baths in rooms at backpacker hostels – but it’s totally worth it.
First night in country and we are staying at the beautiful Fuji Onsenji Yumendono in Fujikawagyckio, which it turns out is rated as one of Japan’s best luxury onsen ryokans.
It’s right in the middle of town, but the gardens, quiet lounge/reception areas and private nature of the rooms make you feel like you could be anywhere. Our room is beautiful, it has a traditional Japanese feel but if obviously newly appointed. Everything feels beautiful catered to and well thought out… if you’ve ever been in a ryokan the tatami mats have a very particular, and quite lovely, welcoming aroma and this place has a delicious fresh timber smell as well.
We wasted no time in figuring out where everything is, got our things stashed and slid into the onsen. The water was hot and very inviting – and thankfully we had remembered to stop at a Lawson’s to pick up some of my favourite Hakutsuru saké. It’s so nice to be back in the land of the $3 bottle of saké… this bottle would cost somewhere between $18 and $25 in a Japanese restaurant in Australia. #robynshappyplace
After a lovely soak in the hot spring and a couple of bottles of saké later we went to the ryokan’s restaurant for the first (yes the first, I have booked us at many nice ryokans to come!) kaiseki meal of the trip. Fuji Onsenji Yumendono has a reputation for having an amazing kitchen and the omikaze dinners are renown – we have no idea what we will be having but I’m sure we will get the opportunity to try many new and interesting things. We got dressed in our yakuta and didn’t just make our way to the dining rooms… no, we were collected by our ummm… is he a butler? He’s been carrying our things, constantly asking us if we need anything and telling us ‘dinner is served’??
Dinner was served in a private dining room for two… we had an option of a Japanese low table dining space or a western table. I love the Japanese tables, but since my knee operation, I’m not as nimble as I’d like to be… this was just the first course/remove; a tray of interesting amuse bouche, some of which we couldn’t quite recognise and the menu didn’t have a description of – it’s kind of ‘the chefs autumnal choices’… and WOW! There was definitely a little shrimp, some mackerel, ikura, a little soup in the cup at the back… so many different flavours.
After that was (what turned out to be my favourite), a turtle soup with shark fin – this was delicious with rich umami flavours. Mr K was too busy watching me in raptures to appropriately appreciate it, in my humble opinion. 😉
After that was a delicious tray of fresh sashimi, including salmon, tuna, kingfish, abalone and some horsemeat – everything was fresh and delicious.
Steam yellow tail with monkfish liver (a delicacy!) in delicious delicate miso and soy flavours.
Steamed tile-fish and turnip: 
Finally we get to the main dish, Japanese beef and vegetable roasted on a hot lava stone: the beef was delicious, melt in your mouth, tender and the veggies were fresh and crisp. It was incredible how quickly the lava stone heated up and then cooled again.
Finally a dessert of assorted yummies, most of which I couldn’t possibly eat – but there was an almond jelly which was really quite tasty.
After such a lovely meal, I realised I needed to learn more superlatives in Japanese appropriate to tell the staff how much I enjoyed the meal. My meagre vocabulary, ‘Arigatogozaimasu’ seemed completely insufficient and I had forgotten how to say ‘Gochisōsamadeshita!’ No doubt I will get better as they days go by.
After such a lovely dinner we had a short wander through the open areas of the ryokan and then back into the onsen. I could really get used to this.
After a lovely night’s sleep on firm futon beds, it was into the onsen again for another 20-30 minute soak before going to breakfast at 8am. Breakfast was another unbelievably beautiful and painstakingly prepared meal:
Breakfast was full of all good things – miso soup, grilled salmon, tamago, mushrooms, pickles, tuna, fruit! So much food…
I couldn’t believe we nearly finished the lot and just left the garnish. After that we went for a wee hunt around the ryokan and saw the little shrine and public area where there was complimentary tea, coffee, soft drink and snacks. Then of course it was back into the onsen bath for a final soak before packing up and checking out… I would highly recommend this as a destination in the area. Everything was simply lovely. 
