Not far to go but a long time to get there…

We bid farewell to the hummingbirds at the Canyon Hot Springs this morning around 8am and had to hit the road heading for Banff. And wouldn’t you know it – it was raining all day. We only had about a four hour drive but there was lots to stop and see on the way and we didn’t want to let the weather literally rain on our parade/road trip… you get the drift.

First stop was the Hemlock Grove in Glacier National Park that we missed yesterday. Now at the risk of sounding completely challenged at biology, I am prepared to fess up that I thought Hemlock was a plant or a shrub or even a moss… not a big fuck off tree! The Hemlock Grove looked a lot like most of the other rainforest areas that we had seen but with one slightly different fir looking tree in amongst it. Nice to wander around the rainforest in the rain though and very thankful I bought my soft shell with me… it’s bloody cold up in these mountains.

Next stop was in Yoho National Park where we drove in to see Emerald Lake, again in the rain πŸ™‚ The Lake is very pretty and I imagine when the sun is out that it would be a very bright deep green colour. Today for us though, one of the prettiest bits was watching the rain make drops and ripples in the smooth surface of the lake. The clouds were down low over mountains and there was no sign of the rain letting up any time soon so we stood around in the rain for a while admiring the view and wondering if people ever went swimming there, as there was lots of canoes lined up available for hire, but I couldn’t for the life of me imagine anyone wanting to actually get in the freezing cold alpine lakes.

Emerald Lake

As we were heading back from Emerald Lake, I saw a sign for Yoho’s Natural Bridge hike. It would have been a good little hike, two hours and relatively flat apparently but we decided we weren’t going to attempt it give it was raining pretty steadily and it was sooo cold outside the car. But just on spec, I decided to pull into the trail departure area to see if you could get a view of Kicking Horse River… and I am so glad I did. There was a few look out areas where you got a great view of the river, the glacial waters were crashing through the rocks and down a huge waterfall that came out under a natural stone archway into a pool that had huge LOGS eddying around at the bottom of the waterfall. I mean these weren’t twigs floating around in the water, they were full on trees that were swirling at the bottom of the falls showing you just how much water was coming over and how strong it was. The noise was fantastic and the deep blue/grey water off the glaciers was impressive. Again reminded me of the glacier areas I have travelled in New Zealand in fact the entire river looked like the braided rivers of the Canterbury Plains… love this place and it’s natural beauty. The rain can piss off though πŸ˜‰ Anyway, it was a gorgeous altogether.

Yohoyoho2

After that we head onwards towards Banff with only one more stop – Lake Louise. You know I think that might be one of the benefits of being a royal princess, the shit they name after you. This one was named after some Princess Louise (can’t remember the period, late 1800s when the area was being originally explored I think), and is a huge big mountain lake with lovey snow capped peaks surrounding it. I imagine it too is fucking freezing but that is neither here nor there as I had no intentions of getting into it. Took a few photos, very briefly wished for a wider angle lens, and had a look at the famous Fairmont Hotel which is right on the edge of the lake.

lake louise1Didn’t take a photo of the hotel, but here is one the internet prepared earlier…

lake louise 2After Lake Louise we headed towards Banff. The highways out this way are in good nick considering the horrid weather conditions they have to endure half the year. We had a pretty quick drive with only one distraction… a whole pile of cars stopped on the side of the road in either direction. At first I thought there must have been an accident but it seems everyone was stopped to gawk at a bear on the other side of the wildlife fence. We tried to find somewhere to turn around so we could gawk at him too πŸ˜‰ but there were no opportunities for turning around on the highway for about 3kms. So we shall have to keep our eyes peeled for bears at a later stage.

Had to happen eventually

Today has been a day of flexibility and plans changed and changed and changed again thanks to the vagaries of weather! Β It started out a glorious day with the sun shining, the skies blue, the humming birds flitting about at breakfast … just beautiful.

Went for a drive to Glacier National Park with the intention of going to the Great Glacier Walk for Mum and a wander down to Bear Falls for me – there’s so much to do here, a divide and conquer approach seemed sensible. Anyway, we get to the visitor’s centre and find out the Great Glacier walk is closed due to snow… still. So we decide to go to do the Bear Falls walk together. Get to the jumping off point for that walk and I take one look at the straight down path and weigh up the probability of pain and nausea and go ‘nup!’ Mum, who doesn’t have my clicky neck decides to give it a whirl while I decide to catch up on some correspondence in the warmth of the car for bit. And thank fuck I did… about 15 minutes after Mum goes wandering off down, down, down the path to the waterfall it starts to rain. Big fat drops of rain, which preceded squishy but solid hail stones! Weirdest hail storm ever. No green skies, no build up. Just sudden dark clouds and then down it come, enough hail to cover the ground in white and cause me to move our car under a nearby tree. What? Some nice polite snow wasn’t available? :S

I wait feeling vaguely satisfied that I was warm and dry feeling sorry for poor Mum who had gone off to the waterfalls with nothing but a light flannel shirt and a lightweight quasi-waterproof jacket. She eventually comes back up at a half run, not quite dripping wet but with half soaked shoes and camera equipment. She tried too warm up a bit while we waited for a break in the weather and we figured out yet another back up plan for the day. We decide to try the Merging Rivers Walk… supposedly flat enough and short enough that we can scooch back if it starts to piss down, only to find that one too is closed due to snow!!rock garden walk glacier national park

rock gardens glacier national park British Columbia

So now we are up to what? Plan D? We decide to go for a walk at the Rock Gardens instead which is even shorter and more accessible in case we have to dash back followed by hopefully hunting down a picnic table and another walk around the Hemlock Grove. Get down to the Rock Gardens which were fun and, ‘lo and behold… more rain. Make it round the loop without getting too wet, camera gear well protected this time and head for the next port of call, the Hemlock Grove with a view to having some lunch and another walk

revelstoke bear statues British Columbia Β Wouldn’t you know it – no huts or picnic spots at all. Dammit. By this time we are getting a bit, ‘hmmmm’. So we decide to head back to our cottage, have our lunch there, get Mum into some warm and dry things and then go down to town to have a poke around (and buy more wine because we is totally out!) and try the Hemlock Grove in the morning because we will have the time.

Get back to the cottage and the weather is glorious again! Who knows. Have lunch, head into town and it’s literally sunny and blue as we walk into the bottle shop and pissing down rain when we come out! Talk about unpredictable. So we potter around town (Revelstoke), which reminds me a LOT of Methven in NZ… quaint buildings, lots of ski and adventure shops, mountains for a backdrop and a very laid back atmosphere. We try not to get too wet and finally end up back here, where I am attempting to photograph the hummingbirds before heading back to the hot springs for our last dip here before we leave tomorrow. πŸ™‚

Better look ahead and check the weather for Banff I think. πŸ˜›

Sitting on top of the world, on top of the world!

revelstoke national park view And that was the hardest part of my day today really… sitting in the sun deciding if it was leaves rustling above me or a distant river that I could hear. πŸ˜› We have been exploring Revelstoke National Park today – going on a few nature walks, checking out lots of strange plants and flowers, admiring the freezing cold glacial river that runs through the area, and driving to gorgeous mountain look outs.

We went on a walk through a Giant Cedar Forest which was only a short walk but had some of the most enormous red cedars. Standing at the base of these huge 500 year old trees, you could lean right back and look up but never see the top of them. They are about 20 foot around the base and solid as a rock, but where people had been touching their bark, they were rubbed to a deep reddish-orangey brown colour, very vibrant and very much alive.

cedar tree red giant walk

Some of the trees in the forest had come down due to the weight of snow on their branches or unusual rainfall levels destabilizing their roots and these massive trunks were laying beside the walking paths covered in moss and fungi in amongst the ferny undergrowth. Whole thing was very green and very beautiful, rather cold and rather special. Every now and then a gap would part between the trees and you could see the snow capped peaks of the mountains in the distance… absolutely gorgeous. (I’m going to run out of superlatives on this trip, I can tell already).

giant red cedar tree walk revelstoke

fir red cedar giant walkway revelstoke

After the cedar forest we went to a board nature walk over some swamp or marshland called, of all things – Skunk Cabbage Boardwalk. On the way there I had no idea what to expect of a placed Skunk Cabbage Anything but it turns out the skunk cabbage is a rather unique plant that grows near the glacial rivers here that does indeed look like cabbage leaves – if a single cabbage leave was about 75-100cm long! These things were huge but they looked like cabbage leaves. Don’t know about the skunk bit, didn’t wanna try the old scratch and sniff trick!

skunk cabbage revelstoke

skunk cabbage boardwalk revelstoke

Anyway the boardwalk meanders through the swamp keeping your feet politely dry and above water level allowing you to get in amongst the reeds, and crazy arse plants and see if you can find any of teeny tiny migratory birds that they track from here – crazy little fuckers come up to this specific spot every summer and spend the winters down in Central and South America EVERY year. For a bird that is about the size of a finch and weighs about 60gms, that’s some crazy arse shit right there… mind you I can totally understand the desire to get out of here in the winter – it’s early summer here at the moment and I’m in long sleeves.

skunk cabbage boardwalk revelstoke

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Decided to drive up Revelstoke Mountain for lunch as far as they would let us go anyway, as the road wasn’t totally cleared due to the snow line still being down quite low. Had a great lunch of TIm Hortons bagels with cream cheese which is going to become a bit of a habit I think… it’s a very easy packed lunch to take anywhere with you, sun dried tomato and herb bagels with a little triangle of cream cheese and a plastic knife and we were all set. Stopped about half way up the mountain and found a picnic table to have lunch at and just watched the view while munching on some bagels and wondering what everyone at home is doing right now (at that time probably you lot would have been all sleeping, but I was thinking of you and you know, they say it’s the thought that counts!)

Then it was off to brave the supermarket to pick up some supplies for dinner. Saw some of the craziest stuff on the shelves of the grocery store – minced salmon? frozen meals that all came with a brownie? oreo pudding? frozen guacamole? chocolate cream cheese? pizza crust in a tube (like cookie dough)? All sorts of weird shit that didn’t look edible too. Oh, and steaks the size of dinner plates – two for $10! Needless to say we played it pretty safe with the food shopping and no monster steaks.

Must be time to go off to the hot springs again… this travel stuff is hard.

On the road again… to Revelstoke.

BIG drive today from Vancouver to Revelstoke – about 525kms which took us about 6hrs or so. Nothing to complain about though, the highways were great, dual carriageway most of the way so no problem overtaking the trucks at any point and hardly any road works to speak of.

Lots of big monster trucks on the highway though, God these guys like their big cars. Even the huge Winnebago style motorhomes that are towing along a little runabout car are not carrying a little swift or something, they’re carrying a SUV or something like a Ford Explorer… there’s no doing things by halves that’s for sure.

The scenery en route was absolutely gorgeous, unfortunately because I drove all the way I don’t have any photos, but it went through thick pine forests up to arid alpine passes and lush lower canyons and valley with greyish glacial rivers running through them. Still plenty of snow up on the peaks given it’s supposed to be summer. Mind you no one in Vancouver seemed to have gotten the memo that 20 degrees and crisp and sunny doesn’t mean it’s shorts and singlet tops weather! People were getting around dressed like it was 35 degrees. :S

Anyway, we made it to Canyon Hotsprings in the Albert Canyon, half way between Revelstoke National Park and Glacier National Park. As implied by the name… there are thermal hotsprings here and I’ve just gone and soaked my already travel weary bones and have created a new travel rule – do not go on long drives ANYWHERE that do not end in natural hot springs of some sort. I feel so revived compared to that whole ‘In the car all day/wrung out dishrag’ thing that you get after a long day driving. So I guess that will limit my future travel plans to New Zealand, Japan and any other country surrounded by volcanic acivity!

revelstoke glacier national park British Columbia hot springs

Also, apparently there’s BEARS around here… and by ‘around here’, I mean in the grounds and surrounds of this resort we are staying in. On arrival, we were given a list of Bear Safety Instructions:

– Do not feed the bears!!
– Absolutely no food or garbage to be left laying about.
– Do not go near bears for pictures etc.
– Do not dump cooking grease in firepits or in the bush.
– Secure all food in vehicles or in a tree away from your tent sites.
– Do not keep food, toiletries etc in tent with you.
– For the safety of you and others you maya be asked to leave if you do not take these precautions.

Naturally, since we are staying in a very sturdy wood cabin, the above information has made me wonder where exactly is the optimal place to leave food outside our cabin that would order to afford the best possible view of scavenging bears from the safety of our windows! πŸ˜€

canyon hot springs national park log cabins

Treetops at Capilano.

Early start this morning out the the Capilano Suspension Bridge. It was only a 7km drive from our hotel and we contemplated taking a shuttle bus to go over there but I’m really glad we didn’t… We arrived about 9am and walked straight in and there was barely a soul in the entire place. We wandered over what I thought was a very wobbly suspension bridge and got into the red cedar forest where we had a huge complex of treetop walks, fish ponds, boardwalks and cliff top views almost all to ourselves.

Bridge

Anyway, we wandered over the suspension bridge which is definitely not for the faint hearted and meandered around the treetop canopy walk which is definitely not for those afeared of heights and scampered around the cliff walks which is likewise not for those who can’t look down.

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I took a lot of photos of the gorgeous red cedar and Douglas fir trees and it was humbling to be stand under this ginormous tree, and being able to reach out and touch it knowing that it is 1300 years old… I don’t know how people could just come along and hack through these amazing forests without massive pangs of guilt and huge amounts of heartache. They’re enormous and so majestic and are so beautiful I can’t imagine cutting them down. We really enjoyed the cool walk around the treetops and the amazing views down the canyon. And were so glad we got there early, because by the time we were getting ready to leave a few hours later there were hundreds of tourists lined up to buy tickets to go in, spilling into the complex and excitedly taking each others photos (what’s with that? I rarely want me in a picture that would otherwise be a nice landscape shot? but everywhere you go you find yourself surrounded by people going… ‘oh take my photo here… take my photo there’? I don’t get it).

capilano treetop walk

Basically by 11:30am the place was like a shopping mall full of Japanese tourists making lots of noise and effectively despoiling the tranquil peace of the forest. If you ever come here, avoid the crowds and come early – that’s free advice. It also happens that the light is better for your photos at that time of day too, so bonus.

capilano nature edge walk

That is the view back down over the steps I had just had to come up after doing the nature walk around under the treetop walk… every step I take that goes down, in the back of my head is a little voice saying ‘Thank Christ I didn’t eat breakfast because I’m going to have to come back up these steps’, along with a fervent prayer not to throw up all over the place. I don’t think I’ve gone up and down this many stairs since I went for a walk down at Springbrook National Park a few years ago! I’m going to feel this tomorrow!

map

After Capliano we decided to head back into town to run a few errands and grab a bit of lunch. Found Big Jim’s favourite hamburger joint, Five Guys and had a kid’s sized burger for lunch… have to say, it was still a big burger and was pretty tasty, so I was impressed. Feel like I won’t need dinner though. πŸ™‚

No rest for the wicked though, because after lunch we planned to go to the Dr Sun Yat Sen’s Chinese Gardens which are apparently the largest most authentic Chinese gardens outside of Asia (Vancouver, I am told is home to the second largest Chinese population behind San Francisco, outside of China… but I wouldn’t quote me on that). It was a lovely set of ‘roomed’ gardens with various reflection pools, Chinese stonework, paved courtyards and gorgeous foliage.

vancouver chinese gardens dr sun yat senI imagine it would be a very pretty place to visit in the rain or even if it were snowing. The place as a very meditative feel about it and all visitors were on their best library behaviour while they were there which added to the tranquil feel of the place. Classically beautiful and very quaint, it was a strange counterpoint to the traffic and sirens of the city that were audible just beyond the garden walls.

vanouver chinese garden dr sun yat sen

Straight from our visit to the gardens, we caught up with the Canadian Relatives for another Magical Mystery Tour. Last night, Grandpa D took us to Granville Island and the Granville Markets, drove us past the hospital Mr K was born in, the house he lived in when he was a tiny guy, and the Safeway that he nearly beat a guy up in front of, after he pushed little Mr K over as a toddler – yep! Grandpa D was one of those Dad… protective and sounds like he had a bit of a temper if you messed with his little man πŸ™‚ He also took us to Queen Elizabeth Park which had gorgeous views of the city and more fabulous gardens – I can’t believe how green this town is! It’s wonderful.

Tonight’s Magical Mystery Tour with Grandpa D took us out to some real Canadian favourites, starting with dinner at Swiss Chalet (very Canadian restaurant, eh) with a Cousin that I never knew I had πŸ™‚ Was awesome to finally meet someone who I had heard so much about and she is very cool… would love to spend more time with her. Then after food, we went up to Mt Barnaby where the Simon Fraser University is (SFU… hehehe) and more amazing views over the city and the inlets and some beautiful rose gardens and all good things including living public art that looked like cranes and were covered in lichens and mosses. On the way back we stopped at TIm Horton’s for a cuppa and more travel goss and catch up. Having some locals to show us around has been great – we have seen a lot more of the city than we would have on our own, and when I’m not driving on the wrong side of the road, on the wrong side of the car, I have had a chance to look out and take in the scenery which has been great too. We are looking forward to catching up with Grandpa D and Grandma S once with hit LA for our great DisneyLand adventure in a few weeks…. but that would be getting ahead of ourselves now wouldn’t it.

So long day. Lots of fun. Lots of food. Lots of laughs and lots of stairs! Oi! Tomorrow a long drive to Revelstoke as we head for the mountains πŸ™‚