Rhodes of gold

Day three in Greece, still haven’t mastered how to say ‘hello’ or ‘thank you’!  I vaguely remember being this incompetent with Greek 20 years ago too… I saw a t-shirt in Rhodes that said “I don’t know, it’s all Greek to me”.  Totally should have bought that.

Yesterday we were in Rhodes, the city, on Rhodes, the island, today, which is another beautiful island in the Aegean, and is only 15kms off the Turkish coast.  The city of Rhodes was founded in what could be considered ‘prehistoric’ times by the Cretans.  In the 15th century BC it was inhabited by Achean colonists who established the island and was more officially settled by the Dorians around the 12th century BC.  Strangely, Rhodes today is most well known for something that no longer exists!  Having been inhabited since the Stone Age, Rhodes has a long history, with a significant period of development around 400BC, and it was during this time that a famous sculptor Hares created what was known as the Colossus of Rhodes – an enormous bronze statue of the Greek God Helios which loomed over the water at the entrance to the harbour and was considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.  The state was on a 50’ pedestal and was 110 feet tall.  According to legend (i.e.: sketchy written accounts and verbal histories) the Colossus was demolished when an earthquake hit in 226BC, barely 65 years after it was completed.  Today, where the feet of Helios were planted are two bronze deer – a male and a female, which are the modern (and far more modest!) symbols of Rhodes.

Rhodes 5Rhodes’ most striking features now are the thick medieval fortress walls of the Old Town which is like a huge living museum.  Build by the Knights of St John in 1309, the Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is THE oldest inhabited medieval town in Europe (or so they say).  The centre of the city is the cobblestoned Street of the Knights, lined with the former homes of the knights of the Order of the Knights of St John.  It is one of the most impressively preserved medieval streets in Europe and leads up to the dramatic Palace of the Grand Masters – the headquarters of the leaders of the Knights. Rhodes 7
Rhodes 9 Rhodes 10 Rhodes 11 Rhodes 15 Rhodes 14 Rhodes 13 Rhodes 12 Street of the KnightsRhodes 16 Rhodes 17 Medieval windmills – used for grinding grain etc.Rhodes 19 Lunch at the Socratus Garden… 

Rhodes 18

It is a truly imposing and magnificent 14th century fortress which over looks the entire city and creates a fabulous ambience for the winding old streets lined with quaint and quirky little shops.  I spent a good portion of the day wandering the shops, looking at jewellery, colourful ceramics, lovely leather goods, and lots and lots of knock off shite and souvenirs.  🙂  But so much jewellery!  Every second store was dripping with gold in the windows… and much of it in really unusual designs unique to the region.  Beautiful Byzantine styled pieces that looked like replicas from museum pieces.  So much gold everywhere you looked.

The menfolk were drooling over watches, and half the ladies in our group came back to the ship with new jewellery.  I bought a couple of little bowls which I am now going to have to carry all the way home in my hand luggage, and we are having serious remorse over not having purchased a fabulous Greek Key/Meandros designed necklace that sparkled with 15ct of sapphires.  So many beautiful pieces!


Anyway, lots of shopping, lovely Greek lunches and free wifi.  Rhodes: two thumbs up.  10/10 would come back again.

 

 

Heraklion and the Palace of Knossos

Greece!

Today, our ship berthed in Crete around 9am.  Nice to have a sleep in and not to have to rush off the ship with that feeling of ‘must see all the things’.   We were in Heraklion, a city so named after Hercules, of Greek mythology fame.  Crete is a historically unique place, being widely considered to be one of the world’s oldest civilisations.  It has been part of countless empires – the Minoan, Phoenician, Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Venetian even, and Ottoman empires.  It is a beautiful island home to about 625,000 Cretans (not to be confused with cretins) and tends now to be a playground for tourists and a home away from home, for the rich and famous.

Crete has a thriving agricultural industry, unlike many of the small Greek Islands, and is known for it’s high quality olive/olive oil products, oranges and seafoods. From what we understand though, many prefer to ‘farm the tourists these days, as it is much more lucrative’. Our first stop was to a town called Agios Nikolaos which has a gorgeous coast line and lots of quaint shopping along a nearby interior salt lake.  There are loads of small fishing boats that go out to catch fresh seafood for all the restaurants that dot along the coastline, and loads of boutique jewellery and clothing store.  So much of the offerings here are seriously familiar. 

The jewellery stores are all fantastic though – the designs you see in the jewellery stores here are so completely different to the stuff you see in stores back home.  The jewellery has a strong design focus with items that are influenced by ancient Greek, Roman, Egyptian, Byzantine, and Minoan design.  Half of it looks like replicas from the V&A or the MET or something.  If you’ve ever looked at collections of jewellery from antiquity, you can see strong influences are still evident in the pieces being made by local jewellers today (have a look at my Pinterest board of Jewellery – Ancient if you want to know what I mean).  If I was feeling wealthy, I would be in a lot of trouble, I found so many lovely pieces.  One serious oddity in the shopping – for an island that is stinking hot most of the year – there is a LOT of fur stores here selling expensive (seriously expensive) fur coats and other fur products.  No idea why?!

“Want to see my scoot?”  😉

After Aghios Nikloaos we drove around Mirrabella Bay to head over to Elounda to a lovely seaside restaurant for a fantastic spread of Greek delicacies – salad, dolmades, dips, feta, local sausages, chicken, pita, tatziki and all good things.  The restaurant had no railings, so quite literally, one foot to the left of my seat was the bay, and I was happily feeding them left over bread and watching them squabble over crumbs… way better than feeding pigeons, and in such a gorgeous spot.  After lunch we walked around Elounda, waved ‘hi’ to what we were told was Mick Jagger’s yacht and then head to the cultural highlight part of the day.

Small fishing boats go out every night and fish when the fish can’t see them.

Our last stop in Heraklion was the famous 1300 room, Knossos Palace or Palace of Minos.  The Palace is one of the world’s oldest and most significant archeological sites – but, you know, I went to Jarlshof last year and they said the same thing about that place too!  These archeologist like to talk up their discoveries I think.  😉  Anyway it is the oldest palace in Europe, where the legendary Minotaur with his bull’s head, human body, and his penchant for cannibalism was hidden away from the world in an ancient Labyrinth.  Construction on this site dates back to nearly 10,000 years ago and contains some ancient murals and frescos which are really quite stunning… two dimensional and depicting ancient Minoan festivals and sporting events, they are truly unique.

The local guide would have us believe these frescoes are representative of what life was like in ancient Minoan times – women were depicted as white and men as brown/red.  They wore unisex small pants and shoe only and participated in a ritualistic rites of passage which involved leaping over charging bulls during the festival where 7 boy and 7 girl strangers would be bought from Athens and fed to the Minotaur.  I’m thinking there’s probably considerable artistic license here somewhere.  Maybe, just a little. Dolphin fresco in the Queen’s rooms. King’s Throne room with alabaster throne. 

Massive amphorae were used to store olive oil. Large underground holding rooms were used which was for the stable temperature achievable underground – however, there is evidence that a large fire broke out in the Palace at some point (charred alabaster) and an estimated 80,000L of olive oil burned down most of the palace.

The complex is enormous with twists and turns, and multiple levels all built into the side of the mountain.  The complex has been built largely with stone but also has huge beams and pillars of timber that add flexibility and create an effective an anti-seismic measure. it has a 4000 year old water system that brought fresh spring water to the palace from a reservoir at a greater height, as well as the earliest known sewerage system anywhere in the world.  It is also located to maximise the northerly breezes that blow off the bay straight down the valley, such that even standing in full sun at 37C today, the strong breezes kept us relatively cool.

Souvenirs – some classy, some not so much…