When in Rome…

I am preparing for our next big holiday to the US and just saw a video of some chicks being harassed by local law enforcement officers in Missouri for legally open carrying hand guns at a Walmart store.  Curiosity got the better of me and I thought I better learn the lay of the land a bit better, so I don’t inadvertently run afoul of local authorities regarding laws I know nothing about – I started out sensibly enough… looking up open carry laws in Missouri and kinda got looped into reading up on bizarre, odd or downright weird and obscure laws that are still in effect in various US states.  I discovered many things that might have had profound impact on my holiday –

in Utah, having sex with animals is illegal – but only if you do it for money
in Maryland, it is illegal to mistreat oysters – but they don’t define ‘mistreat’  O_o
in Georgia, it is against the law to use profanity in front of a corpse
in Arizona, cutting down a cactus is punishable by 25yrs in prison
in Eureka, Nevada, it’s illegal for men with moustaches to kiss women (men?)
in Texas, it is against the law to sell your eyeballs
in Ohio it is illegal to get a fish drunk
in North Carolina it is illegal to sing off-key and bingo games may not exceed 5 hrs
in Quitman, Georgia, chicks are NOT permitted to cross the road
in Washington it is illegal to have sex with animals weighing more than 40lbs
in Arizona it is illegal to own more than two sex toys
in Maine, it is illegal to sell a car on Sundays – motorhomes are okay, though
in Idaho a man cannot give his gf a box of candy weighing more than 50lbs
in Woburn, Massachusetts it is illegal to stand and hold an alcoholic beverage
in Gainesville Georgia, the only legal way to eat fried chicken is with your hands
in Memphis, Tennessee, legislation exists that requires a man to walk in front of a car waving a red flag if it is driven by a woman.

but the one that is really going to put a damper on our holiday is that it is illegal to fall asleep in a cheese factory in South Dakota!

Damn… going to have to adjust our itinerary now.

outrageous and bizarre laws

We got tickets!

Tickets? I LOVE tickets!

So we realized that there has been a decided lack of holidays in our lives of late… and by ‘our’, I really mean Mr K’s life.  Because let’s face it – I seem to be travelling all over the place these last few years.  Especially locally as it seems to have become de rigeur to fly off to Sydney or Canberra for a birthday party with friends, and there’s been heaps of SCA travel of late too.

Anyway, holidays.  Mr K decided he wanted to go to Washington and New York and show me all the sights.  Which turned into Washington and New York with Las Vegas on the way home – for more Cirque du Soleil of course! 😀  Which then turned into Washington, New York, tootling around Pennsylvania, Maine, Connecticut and Boston, and then Las Vegas on the way home.  Which turned into Washington, New York, tootling around Pennsylvania, Maine, Connecticut and Boston, then Orlando for the Cape Canaveral space stuff and New Orleans, cos well… New Orleans! and then Las Vegas for Cirque du Soleil on the way home… and then that turned into ‘Oh hey wait… if we do this arse-about, we can do MARDI GRAS in New Orleans, then Cape Canaveral space stuff in Orlando, then Washington, then New York, then tootle around Pennsylvania, Maine, Connecticut and Boston, and then Las Vegas on the way home!

new-orleans-mardi-gras-balcony-2-derrick-higgins

New Orleans for MARDI GRAS… Hells yes!

March 1st, 2014
Brisbane to Los Angeles – 11:30Am – 6:30am
Los Angeles to Dallas – 10:25 – 3:30pm
Dallas to New Orleans – 5:30pm – 6:30pm

March 12th, 2014
Orlando to Miami – 10:20am – 11:15am
Miami to Washington – 12:25pm – 2:50pm

April 1st, 2014
Boston to Chicago – 10:25am – 12:10pm
Chicago to Las Vegas – 2:30pm – 4:20pm

April 6th, 2014
Las Vegas to Los Angeles – 7:35pm – 8:45pm
Los Angeles to Brisbane – 11:45pm – 6:30am (Tuesday)

Oh, and the best bit?  The whole lot is covered by Frequent Flyer points, give or take some fees and taxes!  W00t!  😀

Driving in America Sucks Arse. Period.

Since leaving Australia on June 8th, I have travelled far, though perhaps not so wide really, across the US. And one thing that seems to drive most of Aussies absolutely nuts when travelling over here is, driving in the States.

Approximate kilometres driven…

Canada: 2,430 kms
Alaska: 1,280 kms
Nevada, Utah, Arizona and California: 3,260 kms
Pennsylvania: about 240 kms

Anyway, with that little summary, I think I can safely say I am able to comment with some vague authority (or at least with excessively biased opinion based on personal experience) on Aussies driving in the US. 🙂 There are so many things that make driving here difficult for someone coming from Australia – the big obvious ones of course, are that you are sitting on the opposite side of the vehicle from that which you are accustomed to, and you are driving on the wrong side of the road! In all honesty, it didn’t take me that long to get used to driving on the righthand side of the road, well no longer than learning the quirks of a different vehicle. And after a few days the only time I had to even think about which side of the road I should be on was when exiting car parks, and occasionally when turning left at large intersections.

No, there were far more annoying things about driving here than just being on the wrong side of the road and the wrong side of the car! For example there is the complete lack of indicator lights on most vehicles. For some reason they do not have orange/amber indicator, or signal lights, on their cars. Instead, they just have the red brake lights flash when the indicator is put on. It wouldn’t be so bad, but if someone has their indicators on while they are braking… it is often really fucking hard to tell that the person in front of you is actually indicating and is therefore intending to turn. It makes no sense to me. So many of the vehicles here are similar in make and model to those at home (monster trucks excepted) so either we are altering the design of them to make the indicators orange and more obvious, or they are altering them to be red on red with a red motif and therefore, less noticeable?! Dunno. But it totally sucks depending on the scenario and it makes no sense whatsoever. Such a tiny little thing like amber indicator lamps would probably save countless lives.

Another thing I severely dislike here was the lack of signs telling you how far it was to your destination. This was pretty much anywhere. In Australia I leave Brisbane and head to the Gold Coast, and some where along the way will be a big sign telling me which highway I am on and distances to extended destinations… so literally on the way to the coast there is a sign that says ‘SYDNEY… 978kms’ along with distances to smaller stops on the way. Here? You’re lucky to ever get a sign that tells you how far it is to the next town, let alone how far it is to the one after that or the next major metropolis on the road you’re on. Without the GPS telling us how far things were, we would have been all at sea and never knowing how far we had left on our trips.

And speaking of fucking signage… what is with the ‘Last fuel for 157 miles’ signs being placed on the road either AT the fuel station in question, or worse still, AFTER you’ve passed the fuel station! No shit, we kept seeing signs saying that there was x miles until the next opportunity for fuel AFTER we had passed said opportunity. Stupid bloody nonsensical lack of system if you asked me.

Another pet hate I have discovered over here is the 4-Way or All Way Stop sign. These are usually found at the sort of intersection that doesn’t have enough traffic to warrant a traffic light, but more than enough to just leave it with a couple of give way signs – the sort of place we would put a roundabout and all be giving way to the right as a rule. Now the problem with these intersections is that NO ONE seems to know who has right of way. I have asked at least a dozen different people from Canada, Alaska, California, Nevada, Arizona, Wisconsin, Virginia, you fucking name it. None of them were entirely sure who has right of way at a 4-Way Stop sign. Some people told me that who ever arrived at the Stop signs first had right of way, some people told me it was people going straight on had right of way, followed by people turning right and then finally anyone turning left. One guy even told me who ever had the damn biggest truck had right of way at these intersections! Every single time I approached them I’d be entering the intersection with my hands metaphorically thrown in the air going ‘I dunno who gets to go!?!’, and that pretty much remained the way of it for traversing these particular traffic control cluster fucks for the entire duration of my trip.

But worse than non existent indicators and 4-Way Stop signs, were the speed limits. Up in Alaska, you could go 40 miles without seeing a speed limit sign, so if you were over taking a truck, taking in the scenery or just plain missed it… you never knew what the damn speed limit was! Not that it really mattered anyway, because NO ONE is EVER doing the speed limit – having NO SPEED CAMERAS will kinda do that. Whether there is one lane or eight moving in your direction, I don’t think I saw a single person actually moving at the speed limit through any of the states or provinces I drove – British Columbia and Alberta in Canada; Nevada, Arizona, Utah, California and Pennsylvania in the US. There would be the occasional truck doing the speed limit, but everyone else it seems to be doing a minimum of 5-10mph to a maximum of 20-30mph OVER the posted speed limits. No shit. Everyone speeds here and everyone is in a hurry. And if you are driving here, you sure as hell better keep up with the traffic or you’ll find someone doing 75mph tailgating you pretty darn quickly, and they think nothing of riding your arse until you find a way to get out of their path… that or start honking their horns at you. So impatient it’s unbelievable. The most discourteous drivers I’ve ever had the misfortune to encounter were in the South-West, primarily in California. In hindsight, I’m a little surprised we made it out of that area unscathed.

Another extra special fucking fun piece of shit traffic rules that no one tells you about is the turning right at red lights. It seems you may be able to turn right when the lights are red… I think… well most of the time you can sort of. Occasionally you would see a sign that says no turning right on red signals, but for the most part it seemed okay. But I was never quite sure as we went from state to state, so… erring on the side of caution, I got in the habit of stopping and waiting no matter what. Sometimes I was obviously doing the right thing as the people behind me were quite happy to wait too, but then there were times I was obviously supposed to go, at which point some impatient bastard behind me would start honking his horn and inching closer to my bumper to make me go right on the red anyway. But I could never tell the fucking difference. By the end of it, I just adopted a kinda ‘approach, stop and see if someone honks’ method that seemed to mostly work for us… mostly. :S

Oh and even more driving fun – in Alaska, there are many major roads that are pretty much closed for the vast majority of the year due to severe weather, and only opened back up in the summer with the tourist season. It seems to be a yearly ritual… the snow melts, the roads get trashed, the Powers That Be decide which bits need to be rebuilt, renovated, worked on or whatever. Anyway, they get fixed, tourists come, then winter comes and then repeat renovation of destroyed roads again every spring. Or at least that’s the theory. Driving along some of these hideously shoddy, almost makeshift, roads in Alaska was down right dangerous. The speed limits were mostly 55mph or 65mph, and the roads were not level or remotely even and shoulder-less and poorly banked, but the worst of it was the overtaking lane markings were dodgy as all hell. I think they kinda sorta remarked the overtaking lines each spring roughly where they might have been the year before rather than surveying the current state of the road. The result of which was, so many times I went to pull out to over take a truck or RV, when the line markings indicated it was safe to do so, only to discover that the line markings were full of shit! And that visibility towards the oncoming traffic was either very poor to non-existent! You’d pull out, realise you couldn’t see around the bloody obvious looming corner, or that there was a huge dip ahead and couldn’t see didley, and would have to swiftly pull back in behind the slow moving vehicle to avoid potentially making a very, very bad decision. If I had used and trusted the line markings on some on some of the roads in Alaska, I strongly believe they would have eventually gotten us killed. It was no surprise that people up there told us most motor vehicle accidents from Anchorage to Denali occur due to speeding and when people are overtaking slower vehicles… next most common cause of motor vehicle accidents – moose strike. 😉

Oh and another thing I totally won’t miss is paying for your fuel BEFORE you can use the pump. Most of the servos we went to wouldn’t accept my international Visa card so I ended up having to go into the kiosk and either LEAVING my Visa with the questionable peoples behind the counter or telling them an arbitrary dollar amount to put in the car that would potentially be over or under what I needed, estimating the right amount being particularly tedious given the whole miles and gallons thing was doing my head it… so much harder than just ‘filling her up’. It was either that or they put a ‘hold’ on your account which they return the unused portion of, when they damn well feel like it, which could be literally days later. On the odd occasion the pump would take my card (PetroCanada in BC, Shell in Nevada and Arizona and 76 in California were okay), it all worked well and after weeks of this, I’m probably now far more likely to pay at the pump at home and skip going into the shop. You know, come to think about it, the little petrol station convenience stores are really shooting themselves in the foot by not forcing their customers to come in to pay for their petrol and impulse buy snacks and drinks….? Oh, in another major pain in the arse move of fucktardery, down in California, many petrol stations would get you to swipe your card and then ask for your zip code. No doubt people think this is some sort of verification process against their card akin to entering the CCV number to check that it matches – but several times I tried entering random zip codes to try and avoid going into the store. The zip code for my hotel worked fine once. My own postcode with a zero chucked on for good measure was also fine on occasion. The zip code of the guy at the next pumped worked fine for me too… so definitely not verifying against information held on file that relates to the card! Most of the time however, it just rejected my bogus zip code entries and I had to trudge into the shop anyway. Grrrr…

The first time I drove in the US, was a sort of baptism of fire – picking up a car at LAX after a long haul flight from London. Far out what a nightmare… no GPS back then. But this time was seriously, no fucking better at all.

UPDATE:
JeysusTittieFuckingKrist!!!! I’m home! Which is awesome because I’m looking and feeling as bad as the person in my passport photo, so it was well and truly time to come home. However, I jumped into my car this afternoon to pick up a parcel that I had sent myself and that was a complete disaster. Oh yeah, btw, USPS International Priority Post can go get fracked with a rake… I sent a 13lb flat rate box from Healy Alaska on July 5th and it was supposed to be here in 3-5 business days. Only arrived today: 30th July. Bastards… but I digress.

I drove to the post office after spending exactly 32 hours, 18 minutes and 34 seconds in transit (yeah chucked on the stopwatch on my phone for shits and giggles). I had trouble staying on the left side of the road. I switched the wipers on at least four times to indicate I was turning the corner. I jerked us all over the place as I seem to have forgotten how to drive a manual vehicle. I almost turned us out of the car park and into the oncoming traffic… Not to mention that every bastard on the road was pissing me off. I couldn’t figure out while everyone was going so slow! And then I realized that everyone was doing the speed limit.

So it seems I’ve spent the last two months in training for driving like a Californian and it might take a while to dial it down to drive all proper li again! 😀

PS – Roundabouts rock! No more 4Way Stop signs!

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Alaska Cruise and Glacier Bay Photos

Lituya Mountain, Mt. Crillon, Mt. Bertha and Mt. Fairweather

Lituya Mountain, Mt. Crillon, Mt. Bertha and Mt. Fairweather

Gloomy Knob, Glacier Bay and the Gilbert Peninsula

Gloomy Knob, Glacier Bay and the Gilbert Peninsula

Margerie Glacier

Margerie Glacier

The Brady Glacier

The Brady Glacier

Johns Hopkins Glacier

Johns Hopkins Glacier

Lamplugh Glacier, Mt Cooper and Jaw Point.

Lamplugh Glacier, Mt Cooper and Jaw Point.

Lituya Bay.

Lituya Bay.

Camping in Glacier Bay

Camping in Glacier Bay

Blue Grouse hooter at Bartlett Cove.

Blue Grouse hooter at Bartlett Cove.

Lined chiton have a shell composed of eight separate versatile shell plates.

Lined chiton have a shell composed of eight separate versatile shell plates.

Green anemones tentacles.

Green anemones tentacles.

Camp at the top of the icefall, Grand Plateau Glacier, 6700 feet elevation, on the northwest slopes of Mt. Fairweather.

Camp at the top of the icefall, Grand Plateau Glacier, 6700 feet elevation, on the northwest slopes of Mt. Fairweather.

his Yellow Warbler is a male, distinguishable by the darkish streaks that run down his chest.

his Yellow Warbler is a male, distinguishable by the darkish streaks that run down his chest.

First glimpses of Glacier Bay.

First glimpses of Glacier Bay.

A turbulent river emerges from beneath a glacier.

A turbulent river emerges from beneath a glacier.

A 'moulin' – a hole in the ice where water running across the glacier plunges down into the interior of the glacier.

A ‘moulin’ – a hole in the ice where water running across the glacier plunges down into the interior of the glacier.

Moose biology is ideally suited to Alaskan conditions.

Moose biology is ideally suited to Alaskan conditions.

Desolation Valley is the active seam between North American and the Pacific crustal tectonic plate.

Desolation Valley is the active seam between North American and the Pacific crustal tectonic plate.

In 1928 the U.S. Navy flew a survey plane throughout Southeast Alaska taking aerial photos.  Those photos show that most of the bay shown in the middle of this image didn't exist back then – it was beneath the ice terminus of the Hugh Miller Glacier, which has now retreated back around the corner to the left.

In 1928 the U.S. Navy flew a survey plane throughout Southeast Alaska taking aerial photos. Those photos show that most of the bay shown in the middle of this image didn’t exist back then – it was beneath the ice terminus of the Hugh Miller Glacier, which has now retreated back around the corner to the left.

Sea cave and sea arch rock formations.

Sea cave and sea arch rock formations.

Merlins.

Merlins.

Soft sunset hues light the mountains behind the glacier.

Soft sunset hues light the mountains behind the glacier.

Carroll Glacier's many medial moraines.

Carroll Glacier’s many medial moraines.

Lupine marks the end of winter.

Lupine marks the end of winter.

Bartlett Cove fishing boats.

Bartlett Cove fishing boats.

Tinglit tree carving in Bartlett Cove.

Tinglit tree carving in Bartlett Cove.

Belted Kingfisher.

Belted Kingfisher.

Bald Eagles.

Bald Eagles.

Northern Saw-whet Owl.

Northern Saw-whet Owl.

Nothern Saw-whet owl.

Nothern Saw-whet owl.

American Three-toed Woodpecker.

American Three-toed Woodpecker.

South Marble Island and Steller sea lions.

South Marble Island and Steller sea lions.

West Arm of Glacier Bay.

West Arm of Glacier Bay.

Changeable Glacier Bay.

Changeable Glacier Bay.

Icebergs at Johns Hopkins Glacier.

Icebergs at Johns Hopkins Glacier.

Lamplugh Glacier has one of the larger tidewater glacier faces in Glacier Bay.

Lamplugh Glacier has one of the larger tidewater glacier faces in Glacier Bay.

Rocks carried along by the glacier scratch along other rocks.

Rocks carried along by the glacier scratch along other rocks.

Rocks scatter areas where ice has melted.

Rocks scatter areas where ice has melted.

End of Glacier Bay.

End of Glacier Bay.

North Crillon Glacier covered with rocks.

North Crillon Glacier covered with rocks.

Arêtes are sharp mountain ridges, said to be “knife-edged,” formed by glacial erosion.

Arêtes are sharp mountain ridges, said to be “knife-edged,” formed by glacial erosion.

Mountains for the experienced climber only.

Mountains for the experienced climber only.

Rocks building up on moving glaciers.

Rocks building up on moving glaciers.

Sculpture carved out by a retreating glacier.

Sculpture carved out by a retreating glacier.

Dammed lakes at the base of melting glaciers.

Dammed lakes at the base of melting glaciers.

Water tubes draining water from the melting glacier.

Water tubes draining water from the melting glacier.

Rocky coastline.

Rocky coastline.

South Crillon Glacier where it pours into Crillon Lake.

South Crillon Glacier where it pours into Crillon Lake.

Central Dundas Bay.

Central Dundas Bay.

Nagoonberry –- the berries are delicious.

Nagoonberry –- the berries are delicious.

Docks are incredibly important facilities for isolated Southeast Alaska towns.

Docks are incredibly important facilities for isolated Southeast Alaska towns.

Most of the year this alpine lake is frozen over and covered with snow.

Most of the year this alpine lake is frozen over and covered with snow.

Kayaking in Glacier Bay National Park

Kayaking in Glacier Bay National Park

Lincoln's Sparrow.

Lincoln’s Sparrow.

Orca at Glacier Bay.

Orca at Glacier Bay.

Lower Glacier Bay with Sitakaday Narrows on the right.

Lower Glacier Bay with Sitakaday Narrows on the right.

Views over Glacier Bay National Park.

Views over Glacier Bay National Park.

Run off from the Carroll Glacier.

Run off from the Carroll Glacier.

Blue Grouse, known locally as hooters.

Blue Grouse, known locally as hooters.

Sunset over the Beardslee Islands.

Sunset over the Beardslee Islands.

Glacial silt... or flour as it is known.

Glacial silt… or flour as it is known.

Newly hatched Common Raven chicks.

Newly hatched Common Raven chicks.

Dryas plant that has taken root in nutrient poor soil.

Dryas plant that has taken root in nutrient poor soil.

Beardslee Islands.

Beardslee Islands.

Humpback whale is formally the Megaptera novaeangliae

Humpback whale is formally the Megaptera novaeangliae

Sunset from Bartlett Cove with the Fairweather Mountains in the background.

Sunset from Bartlett Cove with the Fairweather Mountains in the background.

Climbing the backcountry of Glacier Bay is often trail-less.

Climbing the backcountry of Glacier Bay is often trail-less.

Iceberg studded lake near the massive Brady Glacier.

Iceberg studded lake near the massive Brady Glacier.

Sea lion.

Sea lion.

Humpback whales take the plunge.

Humpback whales take the plunge.

Transition between ice and land on glacier hike.

Transition between ice and land on glacier hike.

Puffins, once common are now quite rare.

Puffins, once common are now quite rare.

Tarne lakes in the high country.

Tarne lakes in the high country.

Camp between Fairweather Mountain and the Gulf of Alaska.

Camp between Fairweather Mountain and the Gulf of Alaska.

Harbour porpoise.

Harbour porpoise.

Margerie Glacier calving.

Margerie Glacier calving.

East Arm of Glacier Bay, Adams Inlet area.

East Arm of Glacier Bay, Adams Inlet area.

Wild strawberries in the rich Glacier Bay habitats.

Wild strawberries in the rich Glacier Bay habitats.

Evenings in Glacier Bay.

Evenings in Glacier Bay.

Breaching humpback whale calf.

Breaching humpback whale calf.

Tatshenshini-Alsek River entices adventurers.

Tatshenshini-Alsek River entices adventurers.

South Marble Island.

South Marble Island.

Orca has knocked a harbour porpoise out of the water before catching it.

Orca has knocked a harbour porpoise out of the water before catching it.

Glacier Bay

Glacier Bay

Lush rainforest leading to Bartlett Lake

Lush rainforest leading to Bartlett Lake

Close shot of Reid Glacier's vibrant blue colours.

Close shot of Reid Glacier’s vibrant blue colours.

Reid Glacier, Glacier Bay.

Reid Glacier, Glacier Bay.

Ice cave at Reid Glacier.

Ice cave at Reid Glacier.

Cobble and boulder beaches on the outer edge of Glacier Bay National Park.

Cobble and boulder beaches on the outer edge of Glacier Bay National Park.

Waterfall gushing form the face of the Lamplugh Glacier.

Waterfall gushing form the face of the Lamplugh Glacier.

Cotton grass fruits are grain-like seeds with tufts of attached 'cotton' that catch the wind and disperse the fruit.

Cotton grass fruits are grain-like seeds with tufts of attached ‘cotton’ that catch the wind and disperse the fruit.

A little dot of a person dwarfed by a spectacular landscape

A little dot of a person dwarfed by a spectacular landscape

Monument erected for Skagway's Centennial in 1897.

Monument erected for Skagway’s Centennial in 1897.

Sea otters riding the waves keeping a watchful eye.

Sea otters riding the waves keeping a watchful eye.

The ubiquitous Bald Eagle.

The ubiquitous Bald Eagle.

Orca whales frequently found in Glacier Bay.

Orca whales frequently found in Glacier Bay.

Fairweather Range is one of the tallest mountain ranges on the planet.

Fairweather Range is one of the tallest mountain ranges on the planet.

250 years ago, this land was under a massive sheet of ice.

250 years ago, this land was under a massive sheet of ice.

Oystercatchers nesting in Glacier Bay.

Oystercatchers nesting in Glacier Bay.

Giant fireweed in bloom

Giant fireweed in bloom

Bear standing on the remains of a dead humpback whale.

Bear standing on the remains of a dead humpback whale.

Great Blue Herons can be seen in many of Glacier Bay habitats.

Great Blue Herons can be seen in many of Glacier Bay habitats.

Blue Grouse can be seen all over the lower parts of Glacier Bay.

Blue Grouse can be seen all over the lower parts of Glacier Bay.

Sea otters are meticulous groomers.

Sea otters are meticulous groomers.

Steller sea lions.

Steller sea lions.

Vibrant blue Stellers Jay.

Vibrant blue Stellers Jay.

Brown bear and her cub having some success at fishing.

Brown bear and her cub having some success at fishing.

August wildflowers in Glacier Bay.

August wildflowers in Glacier Bay.

Brown bear and her two cubs near the rich intertidal zone.

Brown bear and her two cubs near the rich intertidal zone.

Mountain goats at Gloomy Knob.

Mountain goats at Gloomy Knob.

Enormous calving events are unpredictable.

Enormous calving events are unpredictable.

Camping next to a glacier with the cold wind coming off the glacier.

Camping next to a glacier with the cold wind coming off the glacier.

West ridge of Mt Fairweather on the descent from the summit.

West ridge of Mt Fairweather on the descent from the summit.

Glaciers shrouded in mist at Glacier Bay.

Glaciers shrouded in mist at Glacier Bay.

Fallen trees at the delta in front of Mt Fairweather.

Fallen trees at the delta in front of Mt Fairweather.

Uncommon yellow cedar in Glacier Bay.

Uncommon yellow cedar in Glacier Bay.

Evening sun near Brady Glacier.

Evening sun near Brady Glacier.

South Sawyer Glacier in Tracy Arm is under intense pressure.

South Sawyer Glacier in Tracy Arm is under intense pressure.

Tracy Arm Glacier - the rusty red is oxidized iron.

Tracy Arm Glacier – the rusty red is oxidized iron.

The quick moving South Sawyer Glacier.

The quick moving South Sawyer Glacier.

Striated ice in Tracy Arm.

Striated ice in Tracy Arm.

Sitka National Historic Park is Alaska's oldest federally designation park - since 1910.

Sitka National Historic Park is Alaska’s oldest federally designation park – since 1910.

Sitka is a very busy fishing harbour.

Sitka is a very busy fishing harbour.

Antique trolley cars in Skagway.

Antique trolley cars in Skagway.

The U.S. Coast Guard recommends that all vessels remain one quarter mile off the face of tidewater glaciers.

The U.S. Coast Guard recommends that all vessels remain one quarter mile off the face of tidewater glaciers.

Glacier Bay sunrise around 9 o'clock.

Glacier Bay sunrise around 9 o’clock.

Sunise over the Fairweather Range.

Sunise over the Fairweather Range.

Eagles on icebergs are not uncommon in Glacier Bay.

Eagles on icebergs are not uncommon in Glacier Bay.

The Alsek braided river.

The Alsek braided river.

Ten below near Halibut Point.

Ten below near Halibut Point.

Walking trail at Bartlett Cove campground.

Walking trail at Bartlett Cove campground.

Glacier crevice.

Glacier crevice.

Much of the terrain is too rocky or risky for hiking.

Much of the terrain is too rocky or risky for hiking.

Spotted Sandpiper at the Bartlett River.

Spotted Sandpiper at the Bartlett River.

Gumbook Chitton - a species of red algae that lives on its mantle (shell).

Gumbook Chitton – a species of red algae that lives on its mantle (shell).

Glacier bay receives approx 80" of rain a year... a brief reprieve.

Glacier bay receives approx 80″ of rain a year… a brief reprieve.

Sunsets over the bitter winds of the sea.

Sunsets over the bitter winds of the sea.

Margerie Glacier leads off to Mt Fairweather.

Margerie Glacier leads off to Mt Fairweather.

Reflections in glacial lakes.

Reflections in glacial lakes.

Southeast Alaska is a pallet of grays.

Southeast Alaska is a pallet of grays.

McBride Glacier, July 1976.

McBride Glacier, July 1976.

Taylor Bay and the Brady Icefield.

Taylor Bay and the Brady Icefield.

The broad Grand Pacific Glacier.

The broad Grand Pacific Glacier.

Gloomy Knob, Glacier Bay.

Gloomy Knob, Glacier Bay.

Glacier Bay high country.

Glacier Bay high country.

Skiing on the Grand Plateau Glacier, Mt Fairweather.

Skiing on the Grand Plateau Glacier, Mt Fairweather.

Startled bears.

Startled bears.

Kayakers leaving from West Arm of Glacier Bay.

Kayakers leaving from West Arm of Glacier Bay.

Many peaks of Glacier Bay are unnamed or informally named due to an early decree of park superintendents.

Many peaks of Glacier Bay are unnamed or informally named due to an early decree of park superintendents.

Jagged peaks in the morning mist.

Jagged peaks in the morning mist.

Low moraines that separates glacial lakes.

Low moraines that separates glacial lakes.

Outer coast of Glacier Bay National Park

Outer coast of Glacier Bay National Park

Lupine plants near the summit of Tree Mountain.

Lupine plants near the summit of Tree Mountain.

Orca whales - the largest member of the dolphin family.

Orca whales – the largest member of the dolphin family.

Lakes near Brady Glacier.

Lakes near Brady Glacier.

Brady Glacer dams two small lakes.

Brady Glacer dams two small lakes.

Glacier Bay has 800 miles of protected shoreline.

Glacier Bay has 800 miles of protected shoreline.

Sitka Sound.

Sitka Sound.

Big ice calving off the face of Margerie Glacier - over 200 feet high, causing a 100 feet splash.

Big ice calving off the face of Margerie Glacier – over 200 feet high, causing a 100 feet splash.

Bear in Tracy Arm Fjord.

Bear in Tracy Arm Fjord.

Summit of the train ride to the Yukon Territory.

Summit of the train ride to the Yukon Territory.

View from Garforth Island in Glacier Bay.

View from Garforth Island in Glacier Bay.

Humpback whales compete with brown bears as being the most popular, 'must-see' mammal in Glacier Bay.

Humpback whales compete with brown bears as being the most popular, ‘must-see’ mammal in Glacier Bay.

Old salmon cannery at Icy Strait Point in Hoonah.

Old salmon cannery at Icy Strait Point in Hoonah.

Algae covered glacial erratics on the outer coast.

Algae covered glacial erratics on the outer coast.

Muir Glacier, 1976

Muir Glacier, 1976

Wolf strolling down a beach in Glacier Bay

Wolf strolling down a beach in Glacier Bay

The Tatshenshini-Alsek river ends in Dry Bay

The Tatshenshini-Alsek river ends in Dry Bay

A pond formed on the ice.

A pond formed on the ice.

Wildest parts of Glacier Bay National Park can be reached only on foot

Wildest parts of Glacier Bay National Park can be reached only on foot

Harlequin Ducks

Harlequin Ducks

Lituya Glacier covered in a layer of rock.

Lituya Glacier covered in a layer of rock.

Boats used to explore Glacier Bay - far cry from modern cruise ships.

Boats used to explore Glacier Bay – far cry from modern cruise ships.

Lituya Glacier

Lituya Glacier

Brown bear and her cubs.

Brown bear and her cubs.

River otter prints on a remote beach.

River otter prints on a remote beach.

Glacier vs Forest - North Crillion Glacier prevails.

Glacier vs Forest – North Crillion Glacier prevails.

Water dripping from the roof of a moving glacier.

Water dripping from the roof of a moving glacier.

Whale at Point Adolphus during the summer months.

Whale at Point Adolphus during the summer months.

Tidal Inlet

Tidal Inlet

Black and white Pigeon Guillemots.

Black and white Pigeon Guillemots.

Traversing under a cornice on the way to the high saddle on the west ridge of Mount Fairweather.

Traversing under a cornice on the way to the high saddle on the west ridge of Mount Fairweather.

Bears eating during the salmon run.

Bears eating during the salmon run.

Forests of spruce, hemlock and cedar cover much of Southeast Alaska.

Forests of spruce, hemlock and cedar cover much of Southeast Alaska.

Wildflower called a Shooting Star.

Wildflower called a Shooting Star.

Ice caves.

Ice caves.

Large sun star stranded by falling tide in Southeast Alaska.

Large sun star stranded by falling tide in Southeast Alaska.

Car sized erratics covered in algae bloom.

Car sized erratics covered in algae bloom.

Bears stand to threaten, but also to observe.

Bears stand to threaten, but also to observe.

Moose are relatively new residents in Glacier Bay, arriving in the 1960s.

Moose are relatively new residents in Glacier Bay, arriving in the 1960s.

Glacier Bay orchids.

Glacier Bay orchids.

Spider web on a highbush cranberry plant.

Spider web on a highbush cranberry plant.

Glacial melt flowing over rocks.

Glacial melt flowing over rocks.

Tlingit saying: “When the tide is out, the table is set.”

Tlingit saying: “When the tide is out, the table is set.”

Unnamed peaks in Glacier Bay.

Unnamed peaks in Glacier Bay.

What makes the ice blue?”  The ice is blue because that is its true color.  This color is expressed because the ice is pure, which allows the light to penetrate sufficiently far that the reds, yellows and violets are differentially absorbed from the light spectrum, leaving the blues and greens to be transmitted back to one’s eye.  Ice looks white when it contains too many air bubbles that scatter the light back before it can be differentially absorbed by the ice.

What makes the ice blue?” The ice is blue because that is its true color. This color is expressed because the ice is pure, which allows the light to penetrate sufficiently far that the reds, yellows and violets are differentially absorbed from the light spectrum, leaving the blues and greens to be transmitted back to one’s eye. Ice looks white when it contains too many air bubbles that scatter the light back before it can be differentially absorbed by the ice.

Early Spring mountain goat in Glacier Bay.

Early Spring mountain goat in Glacier Bay.

John Hopkins Inlet - winter.

John Hopkins Inlet – winter.

Fragile Calypso Orchid.

Fragile Calypso Orchid.

Harbour seals in Glacier Bay

Harbour seals in Glacier Bay

Tidal flats at low tide.

Tidal flats at low tide.

Waterfalls at Tracy Arm Fjord

Waterfalls at Tracy Arm Fjord

Sitka Alaska Raptor Center

Sitka Alaska Raptor Center

Yaadas Crest Corner Pole.

Yaadas Crest Corner Pole.

Older engines from the White Pass

Older engines from the White Pass

Johns Hopkins Glacier

Johns Hopkins Glacier

McBridge Inlet.

McBridge Inlet.

East Arm of Glacier Bay in the 1970s.

East Arm of Glacier Bay in the 1970s.

Clear blue ice and big crevasses!

Clear blue ice and big crevasses!

Even from a quarter mile, the 150 foot high face of Lamplugh Glacier looms impressively above sea level.

Even from a quarter mile, the 150 foot high face of Lamplugh Glacier looms impressively above sea level.

Early June in Geikie Inlet.

Early June in Geikie Inlet.

Brown bear tracks.

Brown bear tracks.

An ice tunnel melted away, leaving only the ice bridge in the distance.

An ice tunnel melted away, leaving only the ice bridge in the distance.

Steller sea lions gather on South Marble Island.

Steller sea lions gather on South Marble Island.

Riggs Glacier’s tidewater front separated from Muir’s in 1961 and was still calving into the sea in 1967.

Riggs Glacier’s tidewater front separated from Muir’s in 1961 and was still calving into the sea in 1967.

Forest remnant south of Geikie Inlet has been cleanly sheared off below 1600 feet.

Forest remnant south of Geikie Inlet has been cleanly sheared off below 1600 feet.

 Johns Hopkins Inlet to Kashoto Glacier on July 14, 1967.

Johns Hopkins Inlet to Kashoto Glacier on July 14, 1967.

Plateau Glacier in Wachusett Inlet on June 5, 1967.

Plateau Glacier in Wachusett Inlet on June 5, 1967.

Reid Inlet during the winter of 1967-68

Reid Inlet during the winter of 1967-68

Charlie Parker’s prospecting cabin at “Indepencence Lake”.

Charlie Parker’s prospecting cabin at “Indepencence Lake”.

Arctic Tern

Arctic Tern

A rainbow glows against the dark grey sky, towards the crossing of Alsek River at Dry Bay

A rainbow glows against the dark grey sky, towards the crossing of Alsek River at Dry Bay

Boulders on the outer coast beach.

Boulders on the outer coast beach.

Surf crashes on the cobbles and sand near Cape Fairweather.

Surf crashes on the cobbles and sand near Cape Fairweather.

Erin_McKittrick

Wave smoothed stones at Cape Fairweather.

Wave smoothed stones at Cape Fairweather.

Icy Point - Glacier Bay Park's rugged outer coast.

Icy Point – Glacier Bay Park’s rugged outer coast.

Brady Glacier - As the ice retreats, it provides a narrow passage to walk along its side.

Brady Glacier – As the ice retreats, it provides a narrow passage to walk along its side.

Aerial view from over Muir Glacier on April 11, 1968

Aerial view from over Muir Glacier on April 11, 1968

Muir Glacier in 2007 is no longer a tidewater glacier; it has retreated.

Muir Glacier in 2007 is no longer a tidewater glacier; it has retreated.

Muir Glacier in 1991.

Muir Glacier in 1991.

McBride Glacier.

McBride Glacier.

Brittle star, a limpet and coralline algae. Brittle stars use their highly flexible arms in a whip motion to move across the rocks and seafloor, unlike sea stars which use tube-like feet.

Brittle star, a limpet and coralline algae. Brittle stars use their highly flexible arms in a whip motion to move across the rocks and seafloor, unlike sea stars which use tube-like feet.

Steller sea lions.

Steller sea lions.

Sandhill cranes stop over in Glacier Bay as they migrate.

Sandhill cranes stop over in Glacier Bay as they migrate.

Black bear cub playing with a fallen log.

Black bear cub playing with a fallen log.

Barrow's Goldeneye.

Barrow’s Goldeneye.

Dappled with dew, emerald mosses throughout Glacier Bay National Park blanket the rocks, ground and trees.

Dappled with dew, emerald mosses throughout Glacier Bay National Park blanket the rocks, ground and trees.

Docks in downtown Juneau.

Docks in downtown Juneau.

1950s era gas pumps in Gustavus.

1950s era gas pumps in Gustavus.

Harbor seals haul out on the ice and rest for extended periods of time.

Harbor seals haul out on the ice and rest for extended periods of time.

Clan House at Saxman Totem Park.

Clan House at Saxman Totem Park.

Humpback whales engaging in “tail-lobbing.

Humpback whales engaging in “tail-lobbing.

Sunset in Frederick Sound.

Sunset in Frederick Sound.

The powerful twisting arc of a breaching whale.

The powerful twisting arc of a breaching whale.

Red Bluff Bay is one of many seldom-visited, yet spectacular inlets tucked among the islands of Southeast Alaska.

Red Bluff Bay is one of many seldom-visited, yet spectacular inlets tucked among the islands of Southeast Alaska.

Harbor seal pups in May and June.

Harbor seal pups in May and June.

Mendenhall Glacier via kayak.

Mendenhall Glacier via kayak.

Downtown Juneau

Downtown Juneau

Juneau tram- a six-minute ascent of 3,819-foot (1,164 m) Mt Roberts.

Juneau tram- a six-minute ascent of 3,819-foot (1,164 m) Mt Roberts.

A humpback whale breaches into a strong wind – turning rivulets of cascading water into a cloudy mist.

A humpback whale breaches into a strong wind – turning rivulets of cascading water into a cloudy mist.

Tlingit art, totem pole.

Tlingit art, totem pole.

Kyaking in the fog.

Kyaking in the fog.

Calving glacier sequence, photo 2

Calving glacier sequence, photo 2

Calving glacier sequence, photo 1

Calving glacier sequence, photo 1

Calving glacier sequence, photo 5

Calving glacier sequence, photo 5

Calving glacier sequence, photo 4

Calving glacier sequence, photo 4

Calving glacier sequence, photo 3

Calving glacier sequence, photo 3

Calving glacier sequence, photo 7

Calving glacier sequence, photo 7

Calving glacier sequence, photo 6

Calving glacier sequence, photo 6

Calving glacier sequence, photo 8

Calving glacier sequence, photo 8

Calving glaciers!

Calving glaciers!

Calving glaciers!

Calving glaciers!

Calving glaciers!

Calving glaciers!

Calving glaciers!

Calving glaciers!

Calving glaciers!

Calving glaciers!

Long-tailed Ducks, formerly called Oldsquaws, congregate into groups of many hundreds of birds during the spring.

Long-tailed Ducks, formerly called Oldsquaws, congregate into groups of many hundreds of birds during the spring.

White crescent shapes in the rock are fossils.

White crescent shapes in the rock are fossils.

Barrow’s Goldeneye mother raised her ducklings near Blackwater Pond.

Barrow’s Goldeneye mother raised her ducklings near Blackwater Pond.

Humpback whales feeding as a group in a method known as bubblenetting.

Humpback whales feeding as a group in a method known as bubblenetting.

Two of the larger and most common land birds seen in Bartlett Cove are the raven and the bald eagle.

Two of the larger and most common land birds seen in Bartlett Cove are the raven and the bald eagle.

Baby porcupine at Bartlett Cove.

Baby porcupine at Bartlett Cove.

Full moon rises above Bartlett Cove.

Full moon rises above Bartlett Cove.

On a cold winter morning, three Trumpeter Swans navigate the ice-choked Salmon River in Gustavus.

On a cold winter morning, three Trumpeter Swans navigate the ice-choked Salmon River in Gustavus.

A pair of Trumpeter Swans is resting along the edge of the Salmon River in Gustavus

A pair of Trumpeter Swans is resting along the edge of the Salmon River in Gustavus

A Black-billed Magpie was perched just above the carcass of a dead deer.

A Black-billed Magpie was perched just above the carcass of a dead deer.

Owls are typically nighttime hunters.

Owls are typically nighttime hunters.

A young moose calf, only about five weeks old, nuzzles up to its mother.

A young moose calf, only about five weeks old, nuzzles up to its mother.

The most important plant to the native Alaskans of SE Alaska, the Tlingit, is the devil’s club.

The most important plant to the native Alaskans of SE Alaska, the Tlingit, is the devil’s club.

The solaster sea star is an intense orange and purple.

The solaster sea star is an intense orange and purple.

Black-legged kittiwakes are a fairly common sight near the faces of Glacier Bay’s

Black-legged kittiwakes are a fairly common sight near the faces of Glacier Bay’s

The Fairweather Range

The Fairweather Range

Bald Eagle with a fish in its talons

Bald Eagle with a fish in its talons

Small portion of a huge, huge glacier.

Small portion of a huge, huge glacier.

Winter ski-ing in the upper intertidal next to the ocean in the short days.

Winter ski-ing in the upper intertidal next to the ocean in the short days.

The black line in the photo is a partially buried glacier ice worm (about ¼ inch long). Glacier ice worms live in glacier ice and in snow on glaciers.

The black line in the photo is a partially buried glacier ice worm (about ¼ inch long). Glacier ice worms live in glacier ice and in snow on glaciers.

Most of the land in Glacier Bay National Park is designated wilderness without motorized access.

Most of the land in Glacier Bay National Park is designated wilderness without motorized access.

Kayaking in fog - it is eerily quiet, and peaceful.

Kayaking in fog – it is eerily quiet, and peaceful.

And the Wild is calling, calling . . . let us go.

And the Wild is calling, calling . . . let us go.

Ice worms crawling around the granulated snow.

Ice worms crawling around the granulated snow.

Toads are important.  Scientists refer to amphibians as ‘indicator’ species.  Amphibians, like this boreal toad, are extremely sensitive to small changes in their environment.

Toads are important. Scientists refer to amphibians as ‘indicator’ species. Amphibians, like this boreal toad, are extremely sensitive to small changes in their environment.

Riggs Glacier on July 19, 2007.

Riggs Glacier on July 19, 2007.

 It's fall and blue skies have emerged after another wet day.  These hills are covered with a low growing pioneer plant called dryas, and when dryas fruits are wet their white feathery part becomes translucent and the overall color of the fruit head becomes brown, red brown.

It’s fall and blue skies have emerged after another wet day. These hills are covered with a low growing pioneer plant called dryas, and when dryas fruits are wet their white feathery part becomes translucent and the overall color of the fruit head becomes brown, red brown.

Orca, don't see them often, maybe once or twice a year. Some years none at all. They always strike me as on the move, heading somewhere. Bears amble, wolves mosey and double back. Humpbacks dive and surface. Orca seem to just go. As if they are late for an important appointment.

Orca, don’t see them often, maybe once or twice a year. Some years none at all. They always strike me as on the move, heading somewhere. Bears amble, wolves mosey and double back. Humpbacks dive and surface. Orca seem to just go. As if they are late for an important appointment.

This little crevasse is full of water. In the bottom of the crevasse are little pockets where bits of gravel and sand accumulate.

This little crevasse is full of water. In the bottom of the crevasse are little pockets where bits of gravel and sand accumulate.

The cone shaped mounds are called glacier cones or debris cones.  They are mostly ice with a thin veneer of gravel and sand over a cone of ice.

The cone shaped mounds are called glacier cones or debris cones. They are mostly ice with a thin veneer of gravel and sand over a cone of ice.

Every spring and fall, the morning air fills with the ancient and primal call of the Sandhill Crane. The locals know that when they hear this sound in April, winter is gone.

Every spring and fall, the morning air fills with the ancient and primal call of the Sandhill Crane. The locals know that when they hear this sound in April, winter is gone.

Before the days of plastic fishing floats, glass balls were sometimes used to suspend large fishing nets.  Most glass floats found in Alaska are apparently from Japanese fishing vessels.

Before the days of plastic fishing floats, glass balls were sometimes used to suspend large fishing nets. Most glass floats found in Alaska are apparently from Japanese fishing vessels.

These outer coast headlands of hard granite-like rock are infrequently visited by kayakers.

These outer coast headlands of hard granite-like rock are infrequently visited by kayakers.

When you find a moose’s bones out on the Brady Glacier, you've got to wonder.  After all, there isn’t exactly a lot to eat out there.

When you find a moose’s bones out on the Brady Glacier, you’ve got to wonder. After all, there isn’t exactly a lot to eat out there.

Magic moments abound in Glacier Bay – ten years old and skipping rocks with icebergs

Magic moments abound in Glacier Bay – ten years old and skipping rocks with icebergs

The Lincoln Kennedy Coincidences

I’ve seen this several times before, but it never fails to amaze me.  Not the actual coincidences themselves, but rather that someone had the time and inclination to sit down and look for them in the first place!

  • Abraham Lincoln was elected to Congress in 1846.
  • John F. Kennedy was elected to Congress in 1946.
  • Abraham Lincoln was elected President in 1860.
  • John F. Kennedy was elected President in 1960.
  • Both were particularly concerned with civil rights.
  • Both wives lost a child while living in the White House.
  • Both Presidents were shot on a Friday.
  • Both Presidents were shot in the head.
  • Now it gets really weird.
  • Lincoln’s secretary was named Kennedy.
  • Kennedy’s Secretary was named Lincoln.
  • Both were assassinated by Southerners.
  • Both were succeeded by Southerners named Johnson.
  • Andrew Johnson, who succeeded Lincoln, was born in 1808.
  • Lyndon Johnson, who succeeded Kennedy, was born in 1908.
  • John Wilkes Booth, who assassinated Lincoln, was born in 1839.
  • Lee Harvey Oswald, who assassinated Kennedy, was born in 1939.
  • Both assassins were known by their three names.
  • Both names are composed of fifteen letters.
  • Lincoln was shot at the theatre named “Ford.”
  • Kennedy was shot in a car called “Lincoln” made by “Ford.”
  • Booth and Oswald were assassinated before their trials.
  • A week before Lincoln was shot, he was in Monroe, Maryland.
  • A week before Kennedy was shot, he was with Marilyn Monroe.
  • Lincoln was shot in a theatre and the assassin ran to a warehouse…
  • Kennedy was shot from a warehouse and the assassin ran to a theatre…

lincolnkennedy